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Boost Gauge Install Question

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Old Oct 12, 2005 | 03:59 PM
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Default Boost Gauge Install Question

I am trying to install Autometer's electric boost/vac and fuel pressure gauges in my car. Instead of the A pillar method I am putting them in the back of my raised hood (Lingenfelter maggie hood). I have installed the gauges in the hood and I think they look great, but my problem comes with the boost gauge. Beside the cable to the sending unit there are three other wires. 1 grd. wire, 1 12v wire to illuminate the gauge when the lights are turned on, and a third wire to be connected to a switched 12v power source that does not lose it's power when the starter is engaged. It is this 3rd wire I am having trouble with. I am trying to find a 12v lead that has voltage applied when the ignition key is turned on, and does not go open for the time the starter motor is engaged. I can find switched 12v circuits, but they are opened when the starter is engaged --- any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I called autometer tec support, but they weren't much help.
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Old Oct 12, 2005 | 05:19 PM
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Brian Laser S4
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What gauge? ATM-???
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Old Oct 12, 2005 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Laser S4
What gauge? ATM-???

Brian -- I don't understand your question
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Old Oct 12, 2005 | 07:51 PM
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Brian Laser S4
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The model number is what I was looking for becuase most are aside from the sender wires, 12v+ Ignition, ground and ilumination. Never heard of a gauge that needs to be open (12v+) on start.

Brian
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Old Oct 13, 2005 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by MXA99FRC
I am trying to find a 12v lead that has voltage applied when the ignition key is turned on, and does not go open for the time the starter motor is engaged. I can find switched 12v circuits, but they are opened when the starter is engaged --- any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I called autometer tec support, but they weren't much help.
The pink wire on the ignition switch is hot always thru cranking. You can see where I tap-spliced into it.

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Old Oct 13, 2005 | 09:02 AM
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Matt -- thanks a lot -- pic is helpfull too. I was hoping to find a lead in the engine compartment, but I can make this work.

Mike
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Old Oct 13, 2005 | 09:27 AM
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I taped into the Windshield Wiper Motor Fuse directly on the Fuse Block. This stays on while cranking...

Now if I can just find a good solution to the dimmer problem. My gauges are bright all the time. When I tried tapping into the dimmer system on the car, it resets the system because it must see too high a load or something... I tried a good ol' fashion rheostat, but it got so damn hot, I didn't think it was a good idea.

Tommy
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Old Oct 13, 2005 | 11:52 AM
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most of the lamps in the C5 are dimed with a pwm system (pulse width modulation) and would be unsuitable for adding additional loads to, I am working on a module that will tap into the signal and dim the guage lamps based on that signal. I have no estimated completion date.

More Than Zero
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Old Oct 13, 2005 | 12:16 PM
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Default dimmer

I used a misc. mini rheostat(trimmer) from Radio Shack. I'll see if I can locate the part number. It installed in-line with tape below the dash on the power feed to the light in the gauge and it helped dim the brightness by 50%. On the Cobalts, it's a trade off though because the gauge is too bright as it is but dimming it makes it hard to read quickly due to the Blue/Red color combo. Since I don't race b*lls out at night, it works for me. Otherwise the gauges at full power are somewhat distracting at night while driving and certainly gives the stealth factor away when you're glowing Blue.

For anyone that cares, you can have the bezels changed on Autometer gauges by the factory. I had mine switched to black. Just walking by the car it's hard to see the gauge pod and it attracts less attention while parked at the mall.



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