Battery Relocation
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 589
Likes: 0
From: Torrance CA
Battery Relocation
If an optima battery is relocated inside the vehicle, does it have to be sealed and vented to the outside or can you have it exposed. On Optima's website it states that if the charging voltage is above about 15 V then it will outgas a small amount of hydrogen.
I have found a pretty cool battery mount but it is just a billet bracket.
I have found a pretty cool battery mount but it is just a billet bracket.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,117
Likes: 0
From: New England
With the Optima there's no need to have it in a sealed box, but it's a still good idea. You shouldn't be seeing over 15 volts anyway for sustained periods.
Are you running a seperate ground wire back to the front or are you terminating it at the back?
Are you running a seperate ground wire back to the front or are you terminating it at the back?
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 6,486
Likes: 2
From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
I relocated mine to the back. Although not ideal, I did not even secure it with a bracket. If you work it into one of those side pockets real well it takes a lot of effort to pull it out. Certainly fine for drag racing and daily driving, but I wouldn't take it through the twisties without locking it down somehow.
As for grounds... I ran a 1/0 ground to the rear frame and a 8 gauge ground to the PCM ground at the front of the car. I have heard odd things can happen with the PCM if you don't have a solid ground to the battery so I didn't want to risk it. Others have worked just fine with a frame ground and nothing else.
As for grounds... I ran a 1/0 ground to the rear frame and a 8 gauge ground to the PCM ground at the front of the car. I have heard odd things can happen with the PCM if you don't have a solid ground to the battery so I didn't want to risk it. Others have worked just fine with a frame ground and nothing else.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,469
Likes: 716
From: Black Forest CO
Mine is relocated to the rear center storage compartment. It uses a slightly modified battery tray from a Surburban. I am not using a box or an external cut off switch. Fortunatly the local track hasn't noticed. 
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 431
Likes: 0
From: Browns Mills NJ
LPE makes a battery relocation kit to mount in the rear well area. It includes all the cables, brackets and a sealed box. It's NHRA, IHRA and SCCA accepted. According to the website, it's on sale now for $329.95
http://www.lingenfelter.com/Merchant...Category_Code=
Jersey
http://www.lingenfelter.com/Merchant...Category_Code=
Jersey
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,697
Likes: 0
From: Stamford CT
i made a custom fabricated aluminum box that gets fitted into the rear pass side of the car, i cut out the factory fiberglass compartment and fit a aluminum box that sits flush inside, the opt battery sits in with room to spare, i have a lid for it and a -8 vent line keeping the vapors out........... Got to be inventive when your pushing the envelope
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 589
Likes: 0
From: Torrance CA
Thanks guys.
I kind of like the looks of these two - even though you won't see them but just in case.
http://www.batteriesareus.com/index....roducts_id=187
http://www.batteriesareus.com/index....products_id=86
The second one comes with a red top.
Summit has a kit that looks just like the one from LPE for $150. You would probably have add to the braket a bit but I would do that before kicking down $329 for a plastic box from LPE.
I kind of like the looks of these two - even though you won't see them but just in case.
http://www.batteriesareus.com/index....roducts_id=187
http://www.batteriesareus.com/index....products_id=86
The second one comes with a red top.
Summit has a kit that looks just like the one from LPE for $150. You would probably have add to the braket a bit but I would do that before kicking down $329 for a plastic box from LPE.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 6,486
Likes: 2
From: http://www.mphparts.com 800-364-1975
Originally Posted by AVB
How did you run or what's the best way to run the cables to the back?
If you run larger than 4 gauge I think the easiest way is to run them outside, maybe in the rocker panel. I just hate having things like fuel lines or power lines on the outside of the frame, but that's personal preference... I'm sure you'd be fine if you ran them outside.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,932
Likes: 8
From: Hayward California
Originally Posted by diynoob
You can easily fit two 4 gauge leads (pos, neg) through the cabin. I drilled two holes in the firewall, grommeted them, ran the cables through... hid them between the carpet and the plastic sill, ran them up and behind the rear speaker in my vert, and they dropped right into place on the side bin, completely concealed.
If you run larger than 4 gauge I think the easiest way is to run them outside, maybe in the rocker panel. I just hate having things like fuel lines or power lines on the outside of the frame, but that's personal preference... I'm sure you'd be fine if you ran them outside.
If you run larger than 4 gauge I think the easiest way is to run them outside, maybe in the rocker panel. I just hate having things like fuel lines or power lines on the outside of the frame, but that's personal preference... I'm sure you'd be fine if you ran them outside.
I'm using a 1/0 guage weld cable so it was either the tunnel or the rocker panel. I chose the rocker and got it done suprisingly in no time. Thanks for the confirmation.
