Mopar Jimmy

My car is running great and i only shift at 6000 rpm (TOPS) b/c of the HUGE POWER my ECS D1SC Blower system makes. My motor has not been touch internally (including original springs or course) and has 22,000 miles on it and 2200 miles since blower was installed. Until my stock LS6 motor needs to be rebuilt this motor will r remain internally stock and no plans for any cam swaps,etc. (with the stock motor).

I don't want to fix something that is not broken but i also want to minimize my risk of broken valve springs which could lead to MAJOR ENGINE WOES. Sometimes however, the more you mess with things that are stock the more problems you cause, and i don't want to overthink this and swap springs and have that cause me problems where if i don't touch it i am better off, etc. I am typically shifting my car between 5 to 8 lbs of boost as seeing how long i can make my stock motor live.

Let's here your opinions whether i am better off leaving things well enough alone or DOES it make SMART SENSE to swith to a GOOD double spring like the PATRIOT GOLDS, etc. I know the behive 918 springs would make sense but if i am going to do it i want that extra double spring for added protection.

Also, if you think i should not touch do you recommend it when the car has 30K miles on it, etc., etc.

J Z06

See what Doug and Chris say about it.

My .02, you're not spinning it that high, Personally, I would leave it as is.

DDSLT5

I don't know how you have the discipline to shift below 6K the way that sucker builds boost up high. If you can stay below that level of rpms, you should be fine - how much power do you make at 6K rpms? I'd like to see how long the stock plant will last - if you're only at 8 psi, it should go for thousands of miles...............until it gets run up to 6700 rpm in a fit of fun!

Mopar Jimmy

REV LIMITER is set at 6500 rpm per the recommendation of my local tuner (FLP) and both FLP and ECS recommends that i shift at 6000 rpm for max performance effort where the car makes around 580rwhp. They know i want the stock motor to last as long as possible as the car is an everyday dry weather driver for me and if i shift up to 6500 the pulley i have on especially with the cooler fall air will make 10 to 12 lbs of boost easy (which is the danger zone on at 10.5 compression stock motor running pump gas).

That having been said to you have an opinion as to the valve springs being swapped out for a dual for an added measure of protection or do you agree with the above poster that I should just leave it the way it is b/c i am not shifting above 6000 rpms!!!!

0Jeff @ TPE

I would say change the springs with a good set of comp 921's.

Dont be foolish and "Plan" on keeping it under 6K. The first time someone gets you to whoop'em on the street and you have a brain fart and keep your foot in it, you may very well cost yourself thousands of dollars. It only takes 1 time to ruin everything your trying to acomplish.

Jeff

DDSLT5

This is what I am saying. Unless you drop your rev limiter to 6000, I would upgrade the springs to be on the safe side.

JerriVette

Id' follow the advice of the various tuners you are doing business with.

I'd lean towards spending the few extra dollars to protect yourself but again defer to what the tuners suggest.

kumar75150

I would change them to 918s. On a small/stock cam, they would provide just much protection as real expensive dual spring IMO.

JeremyMSG

Is this your daily driver? If not I would wait till spring (since it is about to get real nasty around here anyways) and put on some AFR, Dart, or ETP heads with the 72cc chamber that already come with the good springs. They will give you a very nice jump in power and lower your compression to give you a cushion for the stock shortblock

Mopar Jimmy

GREAT SUGGESTION (and it is my decent weather daily driver) but too RICH FOR MY BLOOD, as this would cost me at least $4,000 for the price of the new heads (expensive), and the uninstalling and then REINSTALL of my entire D1Sc kit (which has to be done my mechanic (out of my area of expertise) and then of course i retune which is just another measley $400.00.

Car makes pleny of power for me and if i was not on a TIGHT BUDGET I would do this and to just swapp out springs would be cheap (around $500.00) as it is not labor intensive at all as the heads don't have to come off, etc.)

sams96

I would change springs. When I did the cam I but the springs in a week before. The car ran a lot smoother with the springs on the stock motor.

INTHERED

The stock Z06 spring revs fine to 6500 so why mess with
something that works.

INTHERED

DDSLT5

He has modified his motor from naturally aspirated to forced induction - thus he is worried that the stock springs which were only designed for N/A may not be up to the task of handling the duties with the increased stress from the supercharger.

Mopar Jimmy

HE is exactly correct b/c my research shows that the SC puts alot more stress on the stock springs otherwise there would not be a concern. Also, the car has 22K miles on it know and not exactly babied with about 15 road race events (only one since the blower)!!!

INTHERED

I don't mean to ask a stupid question but where is all this
extra stress on the valve springs being generated ?

INTHERED

0Jeff @ TPE

If the springs are to weak the valves can start to float at higher RPM's with F/I..

1 Nasty Z

I believe the extra stress come from the increased cylinder pressure from the SC.
I could be wrong??

For piece of mind before the vortec goes on. I will be upgrading my springs from the 918's to a dual spring set-up. Patriot gold duals look to be the ticket for me.
My .02

NassauBlue98

On FI applications the boost in the intake (and exhaust manifolds in the case of turbos) effectively lowers the preload on your valve spring. Take the psi of boost you are running (or the amount of backpressure in your exhaust manifolds in the case of turbos) and multiply that by the area of your valve, and subtract that number off of the preload on your spring.

Stock, the LS1 spring has a closed preload of 76 lbs, IIRC. Lets say you were runnning 10 psi, and your valve had an area of 1 square inch, you would really only have 66 lbs of preload on that spring (76lbs - 10psi*1 in^2 = 66 lbs) when the valve was closed. In the case of turbos, where the exhaust manifold pressure is around twice of what the intake pressure is, this becomes even more critical.

In addition, the added spring rate allows you to rev your engine higher, and in the case of the PRCs, it gives you that extra safety factor because they are a double spring, so if one breaks, you have the backup to keep the valve from dropping.

I'm not sure what the price is on the comp springs, but if you are going to bother with the swap, I would also go with the PRCs.

John

JeremyMSG

If you do not plan on doing head work in the near future, like the next year or so, then $500 for new springs is pretty cheap insurance. I just did not want to see you waste your money on a spring set and install just to put some new heads on it in the spring

AVB

I'd go with the 918's but if you want the additional safety of duals then I've got a set of crane duals for ya at a good price.

Arnel