Seen them both ways with the Maggie.

1,000 RWHP - please tell me what you have to support this.


What is the BSFC on this vehicle?

 

staying tuned

 

 

Guess you will just have to read about it when we are good and ready.

 

Since this is a car that I will be driving quite often, I did not plan on going over 550 rwhp. So given that info, what is the best system to run?

Thanks

 

Carl,

You want a balance between injectors (duty cyle) and pump so that neither is working near a limit... and, it'll create a buffer of protection. The BAP can do that for you if say the duty cycles are getting too high. Personally, I would go overkill on fuel and I dont think the BAP is overkill. I believe they can be tweaked to suit the horsepower you want w/o adding unneeded stress on the intank so if you want more you can dial it in later.

Can you get away with it? Sure.. but you need to know your duty cycle relative to rail pressure and that pressure drops mean your intank isn't enough and that the BAP or rail return is needed. Placing the return from the filter to the rails can help this as well and should be done to fix a bad design anyways. In other words... You will know if you need it. The scans during dyno sessions or logging will tell you.

BTW, you will want more than 550 once you get used to it..




Arnel

 

With his current HP needs its easier to install a BAP for now and continue to run his current fuel pump as opposed to ripping out a perfectly good pump in the fuel tank. When his HP needs increase he will need to install a better pump (LPE) than the OE unit. JMO...

VR

 

 

There are many different ways to put together a fuel system, that all accomplish the same thing. I am not going to say anyone is wrong. You just have to research what is out there. I would safely say with a BAP and a internal pump with a wiring harness, that in this case, it would be engineered to 700rwhp+. So, well over the engineering mark of 550 rwhp.

As Vetterdster, pointed out, you can do it either way. In fact, it is in one of our marketing pieces. The reason, I personally think the OE piece should taken out first, is because it has mileage on it (replace it with a new blue printed unit) and it is also a good time pop the filter.

At four o’clock this morning (thanks to you guys ), I came up with four different designs in my head from the past and present, that will each push over 1,000 rwhp. on a street car. All of which have been proven. No, I am not providing schematics, a part’s list, spec’s, etc. on the net. I actually do have a schematic at Synergy that it good for 1,600+ rwhp.. We know this, because it is currently on a race car, not at Synergy.

Synergy, is hardly the only shop that has put together a fuel system that can do a 1,000+ on an LS motor. Look at Cartek, ECS, Vette Doctors, MDMC, etc.. I can think of several others that are not vendors here.

I can put together a fuel system that I personally designed and used in 98, that will put out any h.p. level required and still idle like a kitten on the street. This will send fuel like high pressure garden hose, as required and is about the same size. Lol. Gallons, in a matter of a few seconds. No, I am not putting this out on net for free. Yes, it does cost a few bucks. I may tell a few guys and they will just nod their heads. Synergy may put together a six second race car and use something similar.

My experience comes putting together 1,000+ rwhp cars and boats for over twenty years. Try, keeping fuel perfectly constant on an ocean going boat, running three blown 1,000+ hp 502 motors, for hours on end, running between 4,500-6,500 rpm’s (throttling up and down every few seconds). This is while moving at a 100+ mph, bouncing off a fifteen foot swell (which feels exactly like concrete). This makes a cars design, look very easy by comparison.

I think we have beat this topic,


Brent

 

Yeah, I did design one that ran 450psi with sdr4 uhmwp 8.0. But I'm not telling either.

 

Actually, specifically, I did say I would tell certain people (that I trust, have high regard for, have a reputation) and no I am not putting it out on the net. Let us know when you want us to build one for you.

 

Just busting ya chops. Mine did run at 450psi but had a SpGr of only 1.2....not exactly fuel.

 

I'll hook up my laptop and ease program and check things out. Arnel, they say boost is addicting...lol.

 

Once you go boost you aint going back!!!! Let me know when you're up and runnin and we'll get together..


Arnel

 

Arnel,

That damn picture of your car in your avatar just sucks or blows. I have to look at it every time you post. lol. You are a very bad, bad man.(Nicholas Cage)

I am feeling, like I am in the locker room with the entire Sea Hawk Defensive line and am really beginning to feel like I am lacking in the hung (horsepower under the hood) department.

As for the rest of you, you have no excuse either. You suck and blow too. You are a terrible influence as well to my checking account. My wife may not let me hang out with you anymore.

Scotty, I need more power.

Brent

 

We recommend the MSD booster for FI applications. The MSD unit has a MAP sensor input which allows it to ramp pump voltage with boost. The MSD's voltage vs. MAP ramp rate is user adjustable. The KB unit uses an inexpensive fixed pressure switch. When manifold pressure reaches a preset level the switch closes which activates the KB's boost function. The KB's voltage output instantly jumps from 12V to whatever the user has set it at. This typically causes a fuel pressure spike. In our opinion the KB unit is better suited for instant-on applications such as N2O.

The Racetronix fuel system is an excellent value. It comes with a GRJ420 pump (same as LPE) assembled in a new bucket along with thicker in-tank Teflon wiring and flex tube. The PnP harness allows for max. system voltage to the pump while being fully PnP. Adding a pump booster to the Racetronix harness is very easy and takes all the extra load it creates off of the marginal factory wiring. A fuel drainage kit is included which allows you to power the pump while the car is off to aid in draining the tank.

http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=7&pcid=166

Racetronix does have a fuel system for the 2003-2004 C5's with the top-loaded fuel sender / module. This item is special order through Thunder Racing. The 03-04 harness is available by itself for customers who wish to improve performance or add a booster without dropping the tank, transaxle etc.. This harness is compatible with C6's as well!

In most cases the Racetronix system will support 550RWHP+ FI. This all depends on your BSFC and FP. Since you have a '99 C5 you may want to consider converting your fuel system to a '97 rail-return style. This will help stabilize rail pressure and extend pump performance. Given the choice between a booster or a FMFPR the later would be the first choice.

 

Racetronix,
About 1-1.5 years ago you made a post on another forum that you were releasing a PnP return regulator system which coverted the 98+ fuel rail over to a return FPR. Is this availible now? If so, how much is it?

Thank you.

 

I would like to know also?
Robert

 

Probably a little different than others but this is the order in which I'd do it:

1st: FMFPR to stabilize pressure at the rails.
-You can't correct what's not stable.
2nd: Inline to increase pressure at rails.
-The intank supplies and the inline pressurizes rails where it's needed
3rd: BAP to inline
-If pressure btwn pumps is constant the BAP will increase pressure
4th: Upgrade intank.
-Bigger supply if unable to maintain 50psi btwn pumps.
5th: Add surge tank.
-For road course hard cornering

 

Well I like to thank you for taking the time to write this lengthy article. I would say that you would be considered an expert on this subject. Synergy is going to order a Racetronic system for me tomorrow and do the install and tune....hopefully by t his weekend.

Thanks again,