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whats meant by this ? i am thinking of getting a maggie and was told i need to do this, thats its a must!! how hard is it to install a maggie looked pretty foreward to me JAY has any one done there own maggie installl? and problems with it.what is the major stuff you had to deal with on this installl JAY
The Maggie Install is not that hard to do I have installed 3 of them two on 03 and one on a 00 some slight differances but not bad. All I can say good luck getting the crank bolt out. I have a comp with 140 PSI with a 600 Ft pound inpact wrench and I could not get any of them out. They had to be done by a shop I guess you need at least 200 PSI of pressure to pop the bolt loose.
The Maggie Install is not that hard to do I have installed 3 of them two on 03 and one on a 00 some slight differances but not bad. All I can say good luck getting the crank bolt out. I have a comp with 140 PSI with a 600 Ft pound inpact wrench and I could not get any of them out. They had to be done by a shop I guess you need at least 200 PSI of pressure to pop the bolt loose.
I am about to tackle this myself. Has everyone else had this same exerience getting the stock bolt out? And how do you get it back that tight if you have an A4?
Is the bolt locktighted from the factory? Locktight will lose it's grip if you heat the locktight up. (I think it's to about 300 degrees). I'm not sure of this is a good idea though on the end of the crank though. Would like to hear from others.
I am about to tackle this myself. Has everyone else had this same exerience getting the stock bolt out? And how do you get it back that tight if you have an A4?
Is the bolt locktighted from the factory? Locktight will lose it's grip if you heat the locktight up. (I think it's to about 300 degrees). I'm not sure of this is a good idea though on the end of the crank though. Would like to hear from others.
The bolt is torque to yield and is not loc-tighted from the factory.
If you heat the bolt with a propane torch you will not get enough heat to damage anything but it will help to break it loose.
A good 1/2" drive impact will break it loose, at least mine always has.
Spend $25.00 extra for the ARP bolt and torque to 150 lbsft or just run it in with a good impact and use the blue loctite.
Once the crank is pinned there can be no relative motion between the crank and the balancer so it will never loosen up.
What happened to good old brute force? Look, it's real easy. remove the steering rack and get a 6 point 24mm socket with an 18" breaker bar and slip your hydraulic lift handle over the bar. Position the socket on the crank bolt from the top. The bar should be at least 3' long and brace your hip on the passenger side fender. Give it a good steady pull and it will come off with no problems. No heat required because the engine will be a huge heat sink and it will have no impact.
Use a new bolt and now you can heat the bolt to help install it. Because the crank shaft is now pinned you don't need to seat it with 240#s so don't sweat the specs. But you can simply torque to 37#s and mark both the bolt and balancer with a clear mark. then mark the balancer with a second mark 140 degrees clockwise beyond the first(each hex angle is 60 degrees, do the math) and just wrench it to the next mark. That's it and it only cost you the price of a new bolt. Nothing more fancy than that.
A4 cars need to lock the flywheel and M6 cars put shifter in 5th or 6th gear.
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