LS1 Valve Spring Float with STS TT ... corrective measures
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,275
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From: Vancouver WA
Originally Posted by IM QUIKR
There's no adjusting possible. You install the springs and retainers then torque the rockers down to a set amount (22#s) and you're done. If you change the length of the rods then you'll have issues but everything is pre-set.
Sure there is! It's called spring shims. Also you should check for coil bind if you have a lot of lift. Sometimes you may have to sink the valves in the head and grind the top of the valve to bring it back to spec to get the right tension. You can even change the spring tension from using different retainers. The 918's call for a installed height of 1.800", and this will give 130 pounds of spring tension closed. Coil bind at 1.085". How do you know if you have this if you don't check? Any head builders here to confirm what I am saying? OR am I full of it.
Last edited by RED99; Mar 15, 2006 at 09:37 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: FI Performance : Norwalk Connecticut www.FIPERFORMANCE.com
Originally Posted by ProtoVette
A quick question regarding the "sputtering". Is this something you feel in the car when you are driving? Or is it something that just appears as a stumble in the particular RPM range on a dyno graph? If it is something you feel while driving, how pronounced and noticable is it?
If you do get this sputtering while your car is being dyno tuned, can you have the tune completed, change the valve springs at a later time, and still be good with the original dyno tune? Or would you have to change the springs right when you are tuning, or re-tune the car after you have changed the springs?
I ask this, because I want to get my car dyno tuned at ECS after I install my STS kit, but they are about a 2-1/2 drive, so I want to make sure I only need to take it there once, and not have to worry about adding things at the time of tune.
Thank you very much.
Sincerely,
Chris
If you do get this sputtering while your car is being dyno tuned, can you have the tune completed, change the valve springs at a later time, and still be good with the original dyno tune? Or would you have to change the springs right when you are tuning, or re-tune the car after you have changed the springs?
I ask this, because I want to get my car dyno tuned at ECS after I install my STS kit, but they are about a 2-1/2 drive, so I want to make sure I only need to take it there once, and not have to worry about adding things at the time of tune.
Thank you very much.
Sincerely,
Chris
Brian
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,285
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From: Crooks SD
Originally Posted by RED99
Sure there is! It's called spring shims. Also you should check for coil bind if you have a lot of lift. Sometimes you may have to sink the valves in the head and grind the top of the valve to bring it back to spec to get the right tension. You can even change the spring tension from using different retainers. The 918's call for a installed height of 1.800", and this will give 130 pounds of spring tension closed. Coil bind at 1.085". How do you know if you have this if you don't check? Any head builders here to confirm what I am saying? OR am I full of it.
for what it's worth, I spoke to Richard at WCCH about this very thing. He said to simply swap my new springs over and be done with it
. With WCCH's reputation, I trust his recommendation.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
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Likes: 4
Originally Posted by RED99
Sure there is! It's called spring shims. Also you should check for coil bind if you have a lot of lift. Sometimes you may have to sink the valves in the head and grind the top of the valve to bring it back to spec to get the right tension. You can even change the spring tension from using different retainers. The 918's call for a installed height of 1.800", and this will give 130 pounds of spring tension closed. Coil bind at 1.085". How do you know if you have this if you don't check? Any head builders here to confirm what I am saying? OR am I full of it.
Be thankful, it really is that easy.
Last edited by IM QUIKR; Mar 16, 2006 at 08:35 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Minburn Ia
Originally Posted by RED99
When you people install 918 springs, are you "Setting them up", or are you just installing them? I read a lot of people changing springs while the heads are on the car! I don't see how you can set them for proper spring load, height, etc. with the head on the car. I have a set of 918's that I want to install soon, so I am curious.
Ran the car last evening after the install. Now it run nice and crisp ! Pulls hard all the way to redline w/o any hint of valve flutter. I'd guess I picked up another 50 RWHP from the install.
Thread Starter
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From: Minburn Ia
Originally Posted by JSTAN
I am considering swapping out my stock springs for a set of 918's. Should I also replace the retainers or will the stock ones work just fine?
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Thread Starter
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From: Minburn Ia
Originally Posted by Jesse_Boyer
that's a HUGE gain, bernrex! i seriously hope it's that much... but that's ALOT.
you headed to a dyno to get the new number? I'm sure we'd all like to see it
you headed to a dyno to get the new number? I'm sure we'd all like to see it
Now .... with HP building like a runaway freight train ... RWHP should easily equal or hopefully exceed the TQ.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Crooks SD
if that's the case, I'm really excited for you!
Bill from STC is supposed to call me today about tuning/clutch options. If it doesn't sell soon, there's a good chance it'll stay in the garage. However, a 'gent from Cali is supposed to be booking a flight to view it soon. As well as a guy from norway that's checking on shipping costs. I don't expect it to last long...
jesse
Bill from STC is supposed to call me today about tuning/clutch options. If it doesn't sell soon, there's a good chance it'll stay in the garage. However, a 'gent from Cali is supposed to be booking a flight to view it soon. As well as a guy from norway that's checking on shipping costs. I don't expect it to last long...
jesse
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From: Vancouver WA
Originally Posted by IM QUIKR
What I'm saying is that the heads, rockers and rods are all set to the same spec from the factory. So how can the height be any different from one to the next. The rockers bolt down on a rail at a fixed point in space, so the only variables are the rods and valves. If you didn't dink around with them while you were demonstrating your talents as an engine builder, there should be NO change. If it's not set to the same height after, then it was way off to begin with and your engine would have run poorly. You're old school and the LS1 is new school.
Be thankful, it really is that easy.
Be thankful, it really is that easy.
And it's obvious that the car wasn't running right, otherwise why change the springs.....right? So how do you do for sure that the problem isn't from incorrect valve spring set height, and not just the valve spring itself?
The point I am trying to make is, can you really be sure that it's all correct? Do you have that much faith in GM for when they are mass producing these heads by the millions, to think that your heads are machined correct?
I see you are a banker, so you probably know about as much in machining, as I know about banking. I do machining every day. But the fact is, tools wear. Now I am sure GM has this down to a pretty good science to know when to change out the tooling before it gets to that point. But there is always that chance that something wore out prematurely. The question is, how many heads went thru before they caught the problem? Was your heads one of them that slipped thru?
Somehow I doubt that they are inspecting every part they make. More than likely they inspect a percentage ratio. Also the rockers and push rods has nothing to do with the valve spring set height and spring pressure.
I think for the most part, you are right, and you have probably a 99.999% chance of not having a problem. (Unless you are running a mega cam, but then you wouldn't be running 918 springs either). So if NOBODY, has ever had any trouble with just sticking in the 918's and running it, then I will give it a shot. I appreciate your input.
And as far as the valve spring flutter around 5700 rpm. From what I have read, that is from a harmonics from the single wound stock valve spring. But the 918 springs are the same also. So I don't know how or why it doesn't do that also. But it seems to be a good spring from all the positive feedback I have read on it. The only draw back is it's a single spring, so better hope you never break one.
Last edited by RED99; Mar 16, 2006 at 08:59 PM.
Melting Slicks
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Red,
I didn't mean to ruin your day. What I was trying to get at was that if the rocker is not adjustable and the push rod is left alone the other end of the triad is the spring. Regardless if the spring is too tall or too short it will sit at 1.8 where the factory machined the heads. I believe these engines are hand assembled and in their stock form can spin beyond 6500rpms so in my book are built and designed extrordinarily well. Can something be out of spec? From GM? probably.
The old heads would require you to seat the springs to a specific height or preload. These 918s were designed to replace the stock springs and even use their retainers without any special parts like cups, shims, etc. The tuners recommend them frequently and to be frank, the guys I read posts from with broken springs are the duals. Why? I have no idea. I'm a banker, remember. Comp cams 26918 are very reliable unless you change the rocker ratio and bind them or swap in longer rods and stress them you should be fine.
As to why the "car wasn't running right", the flutter as you call it at 5400 is the fact the factory springs are weak as sh*t, 75#s I believe. The 918 are much more stiff (130#s)and can maintain closure under boost which is why he needs to change them out. The turbos prevent the valves from closing under boost and hence poor performance. From what I know, you want the weakest spring to get the job done. Anything stronger will cost you HP.
IQ
I didn't mean to ruin your day. What I was trying to get at was that if the rocker is not adjustable and the push rod is left alone the other end of the triad is the spring. Regardless if the spring is too tall or too short it will sit at 1.8 where the factory machined the heads. I believe these engines are hand assembled and in their stock form can spin beyond 6500rpms so in my book are built and designed extrordinarily well. Can something be out of spec? From GM? probably.
The old heads would require you to seat the springs to a specific height or preload. These 918s were designed to replace the stock springs and even use their retainers without any special parts like cups, shims, etc. The tuners recommend them frequently and to be frank, the guys I read posts from with broken springs are the duals. Why? I have no idea. I'm a banker, remember. Comp cams 26918 are very reliable unless you change the rocker ratio and bind them or swap in longer rods and stress them you should be fine.
As to why the "car wasn't running right", the flutter as you call it at 5400 is the fact the factory springs are weak as sh*t, 75#s I believe. The 918 are much more stiff (130#s)and can maintain closure under boost which is why he needs to change them out. The turbos prevent the valves from closing under boost and hence poor performance. From what I know, you want the weakest spring to get the job done. Anything stronger will cost you HP.
IQ
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From: Vancouver WA
Originally Posted by IM QUIKR
Red,
I didn't mean to ruin your day. What I was trying to get at was that if the rocker is not adjustable and the push rod is left alone the other end of the triad is the spring. Regardless if the spring is too tall or too short it will sit at 1.8 where the factory machined the heads. I believe these engines are hand assembled and in their stock form can spin beyond 6500rpms so in my book are built and designed extrordinarily well. Can something be out of spec? From GM? probably.
The old heads would require you to seat the springs to a specific height or preload. These 918s were designed to replace the stock springs and even use their retainers without any special parts like cups, shims, etc. The tuners recommend them frequently and to be frank, the guys I read posts from with broken springs are the duals. Why? I have no idea. I'm a banker, remember. Comp cams 26918 are very reliable unless you change the rocker ratio and bind them or swap in longer rods and stress them you should be fine.
As to why the "car wasn't running right", the flutter as you call it at 5400 is the fact the factory springs are weak as sh*t, 75#s I believe. The 918 are much more stiff (130#s)and can maintain closure under boost which is why he needs to change them out. The turbos prevent the valves from closing under boost and hence poor performance. From what I know, you want the weakest spring to get the job done. Anything stronger will cost you HP.
IQ
I didn't mean to ruin your day. What I was trying to get at was that if the rocker is not adjustable and the push rod is left alone the other end of the triad is the spring. Regardless if the spring is too tall or too short it will sit at 1.8 where the factory machined the heads. I believe these engines are hand assembled and in their stock form can spin beyond 6500rpms so in my book are built and designed extrordinarily well. Can something be out of spec? From GM? probably.
The old heads would require you to seat the springs to a specific height or preload. These 918s were designed to replace the stock springs and even use their retainers without any special parts like cups, shims, etc. The tuners recommend them frequently and to be frank, the guys I read posts from with broken springs are the duals. Why? I have no idea. I'm a banker, remember. Comp cams 26918 are very reliable unless you change the rocker ratio and bind them or swap in longer rods and stress them you should be fine.
As to why the "car wasn't running right", the flutter as you call it at 5400 is the fact the factory springs are weak as sh*t, 75#s I believe. The 918 are much more stiff (130#s)and can maintain closure under boost which is why he needs to change them out. The turbos prevent the valves from closing under boost and hence poor performance. From what I know, you want the weakest spring to get the job done. Anything stronger will cost you HP.
IQ
I don't mind having a good discussion with someone. What you say makes sense. And thanks for correcting me on the broken spring problem going on. You're pretty smart for a Banker. (j/K) 
This so called spring flutter! It goes away before actually valve float right? Is the 918 springs about the same as the Z06?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,251
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Originally Posted by RED99
IQ, don't worry guy, you didn't ruin my day. I don't mind having a good discussion with someone. What you say makes sense. And thanks for correcting me on the broken spring problem going on. You're pretty smart for a Banker. (j/K)
This so called spring flutter! It goes away before actually valve float right? Is the 918 springs about the same as the Z06?
I don't mind having a good discussion with someone. What you say makes sense. And thanks for correcting me on the broken spring problem going on. You're pretty smart for a Banker. (j/K) This so called spring flutter! It goes away before actually valve float right? Is the 918 springs about the same as the Z06?
Valve discussion from the archives
Valvetrain
Springs
*For any cam swap you MUST change out valve springs. The stock springs are only good enough for the stock cam and barely at that.
*As far as springs go you have a few but not limited to the following choices:
1. Comp 918’s: A few years back they had some problems with non-blue stripe springs breaking but they have rectified the problem. The beehive design is also a superior setup due to there light weight and harmonics.. Your stock steel retainers can be reused with the 918’s but titanium retainers are recommended for lightening up the valvetrain and for strength.
Outside Diameter (O.D.): 1.290"/1.060"
Inside Diameter (I.D.): .885"/.656"
Installed Pressure: 130 lbs @ 1.800"
Open Pressure: 318 lbs @ 1.200''
Coil Bind: 1.085"
Maximum Lift: 0.625"
Rate (lbs/in): 313 lbs/in
2. Manley Nextek: Also a single spring like the 918’s but not of the beehive variety. They are a good spring and come in a package deal from SDPC for $214 and that includes titanium retainers. The springs are rated for up to .600 lift.
Max Valve Lift : .600"
O.D. : 1.255"
I.D. : .830
Installed Pressure : 115@1.750"
Open Pressure : 350@1.175"
Coil Bind : 1.100"
3. Crane Duals: A dual spring setup rated for up to .650 lift. When buying duals you’ll need the dual springs (obviously), titanium retainers, new dual spring seats, and new valve stem seals.
Outer Diameter Outer Spring 1.275
Outer Diameter Inner Spring .937
Inner Diameter Inner Spring .667
Damper No
Seat Pressure @ Installed Height 112 lbs @ 1.800
Open Pressure and Height 352 @ 1.150
Coil Bind 1.045
Maximum Net Lift w/.060" Clearance .650
Average Spring Rate (lbs./in.) 352
4. Comp 921’s: Also a dual spring like the Cranes above and come as a kit with everything you need for installation, rated for up to .650 lift
O.D: 1.300
I.D: .870 (outer spring)
I.D: .655 (inner spring)
135 LBS @ 1.770
400 LBS @ 1.220
COIL BIND @ 1.040
MAX LIFT .650
5. Patriot Gold Duals: See Crane and 921’s. The PP Golds come on all PP heads. PP are the only genIII spring setup to use the super 7 10* locks.
O.D 1.29
135lbs @ 1.800
385lbs open
coil bind @ 1.08
.650 lift
Personal Indepedently tested PP golds:
seat: 143 lbs @ 1.800
open: 363 @ 1.200
coil bind: 1.060
Clearance: .140
spring rate: 367
6. PRC Dual Spring Kit: Kit comes with Dual springs, tit. retainers (using stock locks), seats, valve stem seals. good for up to .660 lift
seat : 140lbs
open: 390lbs
install : 1.800
coil bind: 1.07
1.290 O.D.
max lift : .660
matl : super pure chrome silicone
PRC Platinum springs:
seat: 145# @ 1.7850"
open: 395# @ ?
*PP, PRC, TEA, and all other "Gold" springs are all made from the same manufacture; Associated Springs. The differences are in the retainers and seat locators.
7. Comp 977's: dual spring (requires machining of spring pockets)
O.D: 1.46
I.D: .700
seat pressure: 155 @ 1.850
open presure: 419 @ 1.250
coil bind: 1.195
spring rate: 441
8. Comp 978's: Dual springs (requires machining of spring pockets)
O.D: 1.46
I.D: .697
seat pressure: 126 @ 1.850
open presure: 368 @ 1.250
coil bind: 1.195
spring rate: 403
9. Comp 987's: Dual Springs (require maching of spring pockets)
O.D: 1.430
I.D: .697
seat pressure: 121 @ 1.800
open presure: 388 @ 1.200
coil bind: 1.150
spring rate: 344
10. 01 LS6 springs: max lift .540
O.D:
I.D:
seat pressure: 90 @ 1.800
open pressure 260 @ ?
11. 02 LS6 springs or green: max lift ~.580
O.D
I.D:
seat pressure: 90 @ 1.800
open pressure: 294 @ ?
12. 03+ LS6 springs(orange): max lift ~.580
O.D
I.D:
seat pressure: 90 @ 1.800
open pressure: 294 @ ?
13. Stock Ls1 Springs
O.D:
I.D:
seat pressure: 75 @ 1.800
open pressure: 230 @ ?
Springs
*For any cam swap you MUST change out valve springs. The stock springs are only good enough for the stock cam and barely at that.
*As far as springs go you have a few but not limited to the following choices:
1. Comp 918’s: A few years back they had some problems with non-blue stripe springs breaking but they have rectified the problem. The beehive design is also a superior setup due to there light weight and harmonics.. Your stock steel retainers can be reused with the 918’s but titanium retainers are recommended for lightening up the valvetrain and for strength.
Outside Diameter (O.D.): 1.290"/1.060"
Inside Diameter (I.D.): .885"/.656"
Installed Pressure: 130 lbs @ 1.800"
Open Pressure: 318 lbs @ 1.200''
Coil Bind: 1.085"
Maximum Lift: 0.625"
Rate (lbs/in): 313 lbs/in
2. Manley Nextek: Also a single spring like the 918’s but not of the beehive variety. They are a good spring and come in a package deal from SDPC for $214 and that includes titanium retainers. The springs are rated for up to .600 lift.
Max Valve Lift : .600"
O.D. : 1.255"
I.D. : .830
Installed Pressure : 115@1.750"
Open Pressure : 350@1.175"
Coil Bind : 1.100"
3. Crane Duals: A dual spring setup rated for up to .650 lift. When buying duals you’ll need the dual springs (obviously), titanium retainers, new dual spring seats, and new valve stem seals.
Outer Diameter Outer Spring 1.275
Outer Diameter Inner Spring .937
Inner Diameter Inner Spring .667
Damper No
Seat Pressure @ Installed Height 112 lbs @ 1.800
Open Pressure and Height 352 @ 1.150
Coil Bind 1.045
Maximum Net Lift w/.060" Clearance .650
Average Spring Rate (lbs./in.) 352
4. Comp 921’s: Also a dual spring like the Cranes above and come as a kit with everything you need for installation, rated for up to .650 lift
O.D: 1.300
I.D: .870 (outer spring)
I.D: .655 (inner spring)
135 LBS @ 1.770
400 LBS @ 1.220
COIL BIND @ 1.040
MAX LIFT .650
5. Patriot Gold Duals: See Crane and 921’s. The PP Golds come on all PP heads. PP are the only genIII spring setup to use the super 7 10* locks.
O.D 1.29
135lbs @ 1.800
385lbs open
coil bind @ 1.08
.650 lift
Personal Indepedently tested PP golds:
seat: 143 lbs @ 1.800
open: 363 @ 1.200
coil bind: 1.060
Clearance: .140
spring rate: 367
6. PRC Dual Spring Kit: Kit comes with Dual springs, tit. retainers (using stock locks), seats, valve stem seals. good for up to .660 lift
seat : 140lbs
open: 390lbs
install : 1.800
coil bind: 1.07
1.290 O.D.
max lift : .660
matl : super pure chrome silicone
PRC Platinum springs:
seat: 145# @ 1.7850"
open: 395# @ ?
*PP, PRC, TEA, and all other "Gold" springs are all made from the same manufacture; Associated Springs. The differences are in the retainers and seat locators.
7. Comp 977's: dual spring (requires machining of spring pockets)
O.D: 1.46
I.D: .700
seat pressure: 155 @ 1.850
open presure: 419 @ 1.250
coil bind: 1.195
spring rate: 441
8. Comp 978's: Dual springs (requires machining of spring pockets)
O.D: 1.46
I.D: .697
seat pressure: 126 @ 1.850
open presure: 368 @ 1.250
coil bind: 1.195
spring rate: 403
9. Comp 987's: Dual Springs (require maching of spring pockets)
O.D: 1.430
I.D: .697
seat pressure: 121 @ 1.800
open presure: 388 @ 1.200
coil bind: 1.150
spring rate: 344
10. 01 LS6 springs: max lift .540
O.D:
I.D:
seat pressure: 90 @ 1.800
open pressure 260 @ ?
11. 02 LS6 springs or green: max lift ~.580
O.D
I.D:
seat pressure: 90 @ 1.800
open pressure: 294 @ ?
12. 03+ LS6 springs(orange): max lift ~.580
O.D
I.D:
seat pressure: 90 @ 1.800
open pressure: 294 @ ?
13. Stock Ls1 Springs
O.D:
I.D:
seat pressure: 75 @ 1.800
open pressure: 230 @ ?
Last edited by IM QUIKR; Mar 17, 2006 at 10:14 AM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,921
Likes: 1
From: Minburn Ia
IM QUIKR .... some good archive data there. Thanks
Regarding questions about spring installation. If the engine is out of car. Changeover is a piece of cake ... 1/2 hr perhaps.
If ... as usually is the case ... its in car, you are looking at 4-5 hrs to do job.
Takes longer because the rear 4 cylinders are up under windshield zone and its harder to get hands/tools into the area. Takes a special C-shaped tool to apply pressure on springs ... which is harder to use up under the tight rear cylinders. Also need an air hose with threads which will screw into sparkplug hole ... to allow airpressure into area to hold up valves.
Regarding questions about spring installation. If the engine is out of car. Changeover is a piece of cake ... 1/2 hr perhaps.
If ... as usually is the case ... its in car, you are looking at 4-5 hrs to do job.
Takes longer because the rear 4 cylinders are up under windshield zone and its harder to get hands/tools into the area. Takes a special C-shaped tool to apply pressure on springs ... which is harder to use up under the tight rear cylinders. Also need an air hose with threads which will screw into sparkplug hole ... to allow airpressure into area to hold up valves.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,251
Likes: 4
Originally Posted by bernrex
IM QUIKR .... some good archive data there. Thanks
Regarding questions about spring installation. If the engine is out of car. Changeover is a piece of cake ... 1/2 hr perhaps.
If ... as usually is the case ... its in car, you are looking at 4-5 hrs to do job.
Takes longer because the rear 4 cylinders are up under windshield zone and its harder to get hands/tools into the area. Takes a special C-shaped tool to apply pressure on springs ... which is harder to use up under the tight rear cylinders. Also need an air hose with threads which will screw into sparkplug hole ... to allow airpressure into area to hold up valves.
Regarding questions about spring installation. If the engine is out of car. Changeover is a piece of cake ... 1/2 hr perhaps.
If ... as usually is the case ... its in car, you are looking at 4-5 hrs to do job.
Takes longer because the rear 4 cylinders are up under windshield zone and its harder to get hands/tools into the area. Takes a special C-shaped tool to apply pressure on springs ... which is harder to use up under the tight rear cylinders. Also need an air hose with threads which will screw into sparkplug hole ... to allow airpressure into area to hold up valves.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 596
Likes: 0
From: PA
Originally Posted by IM QUIKR
Since it was my first time, it took me 4 hours. Today I could do both in 2 hrs. This was the tool I used from Pep Boys and it worked well on all the valves. After I finished mine I saw a writeup How To... and they had a great suggestion. Dab some vaseline on the inside of the retainer clip so it sticks to the stem while you release the compressor tool. I had the worst time keeping the little half clips on while I released pressure to seat the retainer. A word to wise, buy a few extra retainer clips before you start. It's impossible not to lose at least one and then your stuck because you can't pull the air hose from the cylinder until it's locked.
IM QUIKR, did you use this tool while the engine was in the car? I want to change my springs, and I want to be able to do it easily with just removing the valve covers. Does this particualr tool work well even with the rear most valve springs near the windshield?
Also, where do you get the fitting that would go on the end of the air compressor that would go into the sprak plug hole to keep the valves up? Can you get this at Pep-Boys too?
Last thing, does anyone have any links to a write-up of how to change your valve springs with the heads still on the engine and still in the car?
Thank you very much.
Chris
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,251
Likes: 4
Originally Posted by ProtoVette
Hi,
IM QUIKR, did you use this tool while the engine was in the car? I want to change my springs, and I want to be able to do it easily with just removing the valve covers. Does this particualr tool work well even with the rear most valve springs near the windshield?
Also, where do you get the fitting that would go on the end of the air compressor that would go into the sprak plug hole to keep the valves up? Can you get this at Pep-Boys too?
Last thing, does anyone have any links to a write-up of how to change your valve springs with the heads still on the engine and still in the car?
Thank you very much.
Chris
IM QUIKR, did you use this tool while the engine was in the car? I want to change my springs, and I want to be able to do it easily with just removing the valve covers. Does this particualr tool work well even with the rear most valve springs near the windshield?
Also, where do you get the fitting that would go on the end of the air compressor that would go into the sprak plug hole to keep the valves up? Can you get this at Pep-Boys too?
Last thing, does anyone have any links to a write-up of how to change your valve springs with the heads still on the engine and still in the car?
Thank you very much.
Chris
Pep boys has both tools and yes it will fit on the rear vavles but it's tight.
