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I searched a few threads and it seems like people have mixed reviews about the Eagle 6.1 rods. Id like to put a forged 346 shortblock together but, im not sure what parts to throw in it. Im thinking of going conservative and using the stock crank, Eagle 6.1 H beams, and some type of forged piston. This will be spinning a P1sc. Do you think the Eagle's will hold up? I talked to several people but, id like to hear from some of the more experienced builders/enthusiasts. Thanks.
I searched a few threads and it seems like people have mixed reviews about the Eagle 6.1 rods. Id like to put a forged 346 shortblock together but, im not sure what parts to throw in it. Im thinking of going conservative and using the stock crank, Eagle 6.1 H beams, and some type of forged piston. This will be spinning a P1sc. Do you think the Eagle's will hold up? I talked to several people but, id like to hear from some of the more experienced builders/enthusiasts. Thanks.
There are more than 30 guys in this section that are running 650+ rwhp. I would be willing to bet that a large majority of them are running Eagle rods. I dont see a problem with it.
I personally spent the extra money and got a little better rods. But to be quite honest with you, it probably didnt do anything extra for my motor other than make me feel better.
There are more than 30 guys in this section that are running 650+ rwhp. I would be willing to bet that a large majority of them are running Eagle rods. I dont see a problem with it.
I personally spent the extra money and got a little better rods. But to be quite honest with you, it probably didnt do anything extra for my motor other than make me feel better.
Well, I don't want to lose sleep at night thinking about whether or not the motor is gonna hold up. I don't plan on abusing the car but, id like to know that when my foot gets a little heavy my motor won't step out on me. I want to keep the build as conservative as possible for simplicity's sake. Rods, pistons, mild h/c, p1sc. Thats it. This isn't going to be a track warrior.
You will be just fine with Eagle rods. Come to think of it, I dont think I have met a guy on this forum that has broke an Eagle rod.
I know for a fact that the member "Peter Pan" is running 740+rwhp on eagle rods without a problem. I'm also pretty sure that the member "Mikes99corvette" is running them as well. He's around 700rwhp and runs low low 10's without any problems.
I searched a few threads and it seems like people have mixed reviews about the Eagle 6.1 rods. Id like to put a forged 346 shortblock together but, im not sure what parts to throw in it. Im thinking of going conservative and using the stock crank, Eagle 6.1 H beams, and some type of forged piston. This will be spinning a P1sc. Do you think the Eagle's will hold up? I talked to several people but, id like to hear from some of the more experienced builders/enthusiasts. Thanks.
Eagle rods are great, especially at the power level you are in - I suggest using thier P/N CRS6125O3D for the 6.125" - it's an "on center" LS1 specific rod.
Also, good in your power range is a nice, lightweight "I" beam rod from Probe.
If you step up in power, you can go with Crower or Lunati billet pieces. Both are among the strongest, yet very light and offer less clearencing issues.
What is an "on center" specific rod? Would a non "on center" 6.100 be as good? What effect does the additional .025" have on things? What is meant b 0.927 wrist pin? Thanks for the help guys.
Last edited by dwalker011; Apr 20, 2006 at 01:16 AM.
What is an "on center" specific rod? Would a non "on center" 6.100 be as good? What effect does the additional .025" have on things? What is meant b 0.927 wrist pin? Thanks for the help guys.
LS1 rods use an "on center" geometry and it is very important to centering inside the piston, especially pistons that have minimal space between the wrist pin bosses.
The .927 dia. wrist pin is a Chevrolet standard (big block and small block) as opposed to the .942 LS1 stock size. Most all aftermarket LS1 pistons will be found with the .927 pin diameter.
LS1 rods use an "on center" geometry and it is very important to centering inside the piston, especially pistons that have minimal space between the wrist pin bosses.
The .927 dia. wrist pin is a Chevrolet standard (big block and small block) as opposed to the .942 LS1 stock size. Most all aftermarket LS1 pistons will be found with the .927 pin diameter.
Charlie
Would regular Eagle ESP 6.1" rods work or am im going to run into trouble with those? What does the extra .025" on the rod length accomplish?
From: Stealth So Cal GOCC ...comming to invade your neighborhood soon
I went with the Eagle 6.1 rods because it cut the piston cost about in half when it came to dished pistons (I separately bought a set of each and parted with the 6.125's). At the time I purchased the LS1 specific pistons (about 2003) they would have been almost custom as opposed to the pistons for a 6.1 rod which were readily available.
FYI I have about 20K miles on my motor at this power level and it's not babied either. So, I say don't hesitate with the Eagle's.
WOW, the generic Eagle's sure are holding up to that D1 pretty well. Your rods are the CRS6100L3D correct? What does changing the rod length do in effect? Do you have to compensate for the change when picking pistons? What pistons are you running in your motor and whats your net C/R? Do you run the ARP rod bolts in your motor? Awesome power for pump. Im so envious with my little P1SC set up. "Blower Envy"
Is there a website that has a compression calculator that is able to determine what C/R a particular set up will produce?
Last edited by dwalker011; Apr 21, 2006 at 12:57 AM.
Can anyone explain this a little further? Would the regular 6.125 or 6.100 H Beam connecting rods work as well?
They work. Just get the pistons to match on pin diameter and compression height.
The LS1 is designed as an "on center" rod. Earlier small blocks were designed with the rod "offset"
Since both design geometries are meant to center the rod end in the piston, mixing them up will mean that the piston will no longer be pushing on the centerline of the connecting rod.
It works, but it is not optimum. Hence, Eagle released the LS1 specific rods.
From: Stealth So Cal GOCC ...comming to invade your neighborhood soon
Originally Posted by dwalker011
Your rods are the CRS6100L3D correct?
It's been 3 years so I would presume that's the number but can't confirm.
What does changing the rod length do in effect? Do you have to compensate for the change when picking pistons?
Yes you have to coordinate the piston choice. The only thing that happens is that the wrist pin is set a little further down the piston from what I understand. That and saving a few bucks.
What pistons are you running in your motor and whats your net C/R? Do you run the ARP rod bolts in your motor?
Yes, I run a special made ARP head stud as well as some other ARP's. I am also running Ross pistons that I picked up used and have ~ 9.1 cr (-12 dish and a 60cc head).
The shorter the rod the greater the side loads as the piston travels in the cylinder.. There's also a slight increase in the time it sits at top and bottom dead center. That's how I understand it... could be wrong.
For what it is worth I bought a set of Crower LSx specific rods for $550. You can spend a little more.. I guess about $100 and get what is IMO a much better rod.
Charlie is of course 100% right.. there are a few on here that I know that are running small block rods, but why do it? It will not cost you that much more to run the correct rod. I would recommend going with the 6.125 rod as well.
Realistically why try to budget build a bottom end? I think I probably spent an extra $400 to have exactly what I wanted. Is that a lot of money.. yes, in the large scheme of things it is not. Why spend $5000 - $7000 with a supercharger kit then skimp $400 to get a good set of rods and pistons.
My parts of choice are:
Crower Rods
JE Pistons
Clevite Bearings
ARP Hardware (Is there another choice? )
If you need any further help... chime in.. there are plenty around willing to answer questions. I built my own engine so I can tell you whatever you may need.
You will be just fine with Eagle rods. Come to think of it, I dont think I have met a guy on this forum that has broke an Eagle rod.
I know for a fact that the member "Peter Pan" is running 740+rwhp on eagle rods without a problem. I'm also pretty sure that the member "Mikes99corvette" is running them as well. He's around 700rwhp and runs low low 10's without any problems.
Are they a cheap rod??? YES (Cheap as in cost)
Will they EASILY get the job done?? YES
I have 3k on my 6.125 eagle rods and the also more affordable Diamond pistons. Oh I did just get my short block form A&A so I had only to assemble my heads and oil pump. I decided to stay with the stock displacement and go with just middle of the road parts that are proven to work and so far I have a smile on my face everytime I drive in a Sick HP street car. To be honest with you when put together my setup I was a newbe and no clue so I hung out on the FI section quietly and when I pulled the trigger on a used A&A DS1C I decided on calling Andy and between him, my mechanic Got Juice and myself a plan was formed and Jeff posted the results of the build. Good luck with your build and listen to Charlie on the Rod length and build the motor to your goals in the long term, we exceeded mine by almost 100 hp so you know I am happy