Backside Idler Pulley
I was hoping someone could give me some advice concerning my 3 in. Backside Idler Pulley on my ATI Procharger. It has been wearing down and is now quite "con cave" and is eating my Gator belt. I have ordered a new one and should have it within the week.
I am only producing about 4 lbs of boost right now with the Idler pulley on. Last night, I took it off and went for a short run and produced 6 to 7 lbs of boost. My belt is already kind of tight and may have caused the damage to the Idler. I did not notice any belt slippage with the Idler off.
Does it hurt to run without this Idler pulley? What is it's actual purpose? I am thinking about leaving it off until I get my new one.
Thanks for any help someone can give me.
Larry (spcshtle)
Was it making all kinds of noises? maybe the bearings are seizing causing it to create resistance and eating the belt up.
Their type 1 or 2 which just gives them the color what you need is type 3.
ATI is now shipping some that are type 3, I just got 1 last week and so did another forum member.
My S/C was making some noise, but when I checked the fluid level it was low. I added some ATI oil and it sounds fine now. But, I am concerned about the fluid level dropping. I changed the ATI oil about 10 months after I purchased the car and the oil level was full then. Now, about 6 months after that, it needed oil. I will see what ATI says.
Thanks again. Take care.
Larry (spcshtle)
Last night, I took it off and went for a short run and produced 6 to 7 lbs of boost. My belt is already kind of tight and may have caused the damage to the Idler. I did not notice any belt slippage with the Idler off.
Does it hurt to run without this Idler pulley? What is it's actual purpose?
Larry (spcshtle)
I got on it today again and it produced 7bs of boost with nice solid acceleration. As I stated before, my belt was already on the tight side, so maybe that is why it appears to be working fine now. When I get the new Idler, I plan on installing a new belt that is not so tight. I am thinking the tightness may have contributed to wearing out my Idler. Of course, these are all just my thoughts.
Also, one of the other guys on this thread said he drove without an Idler for 6 months, so it seems to be possible. I would welcome any input from someone who understands this better than me.
Thanks again and take care.
Larry (spcshtle)
I got on it today again and it produced 7bs of boost with nice solid acceleration. As I stated before, my belt was already on the tight side, so maybe that is why it appears to be working fine now. When I get the new Idler, I plan on installing a new belt that is not so tight. I am thinking the tightness may have contributed to wearing out my Idler. Of course, these are all just my thoughts.
Also, one of the other guys on this thread said he drove without an Idler for 6 months, so it seems to be possible. I would welcome any input from someone who understands this better than me.
Thanks again and take care.
Your losing a lot of belt wrap around the crank pulley w/o the lower idler and I don't see how the tensioner could possably take up the slack using the correct belt.:crazy
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I talked to ATI today and Tech support said the Gator belts are known for wearing down the ATI Idler pulley. The Gator belt wore down my pulley to a point that the pulley started to damage the belt. (I saw this Saturday when I had the car on a rack) I took off the Idler because it is basically useless at this point and would most likely completely destroy the belt.
ATI said it is ok to drive without the pulley--but will result in some belt slippage. My belt was already kind of tight and probably contributed to the damage to the Idler. It has been 5 days and the car runs fine/fast and there is no black dust like before. I have ordered a new Idler and will install it with a new Non-Gator belt within the next few days.
I was just passing on my experience with this problem to try to get some feedback. ATI said they do not at this time actually know how much better the new Type 3 Idler pulley will perform because it is a fairly recent "upgrade" and they will collect more info as time goes along.
They charge $64 for their Idler pulley.
Last week I found some Dayco flat steel GM pulleys--76 mm with 5/8" bearing opening on Ebay--4 new in the box for $15.00 plus $8.50 shipping. The box P/N is 89007 and the number on the bearing is NTN 6203LU. These are the exact same dimensions as the one from ATI. I am going to try one out to see how well it works. If it works good, it will be a very good price. If not, I will buy the $64 one and probably have to replace it every 4000 to 7000 miles. My car is a daily driver, so I thought I would try it--carefully.
Take care.
Larry (spcshtle)
If you get this, you will have to post results, as i would much rather go that route.
Take care.
Larry (spcshtle)

I was thinking of those pieces after i posted, i would think they would hold the bearings in place also, but the pulley could potentially walk? I dunno, maybe they are pressed in there good enough where they wont move.
Also, my Backside Idler pulley measures 2 3/8 inch and it does not spin freely--bearing is bad. I talked to Josh at ATI today and he told me my upper Idler pulley is the "old" style that was found to have bearing problems. I ordered a new one from him and he says the new ones are 3 inches now and anodized.
Well, I just wanted to pass along what I found. I could not find any other Idler pulleys that had all the right dimensions, so it looks like ATI is the only place to purchase them.
Larry (spcshtle)












