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D1 belt headache!

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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 04:50 PM
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Default D1 belt headache!

I have a 8rib D1 with a 3.85 pulley. The 89.3" Gates is too lose...on the dyno it slips, after 9 pulls it breaks on the way home. A half inch smaller belt 88.8" might work, but can't find one. I do not want to go to a bigger pulley. If it is an alignment problem would it have survied the 9 dyno pulls. Anyone have a solution?
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Emuffinman1
I have a 8rib D1 with a 3.85 pulley. The 89.3" Gates is too lose...on the dyno it slips, after 9 pulls it breaks on the way home. A half inch smaller belt 88.8" might work, but can't find one. I do not want to go to a bigger pulley. If it is an alignment problem would it have survied the 9 dyno pulls. Anyone have a solution?

What does the tensioner look like ( in the middle, no tension at all etc.) You could try a bigger alt pulley I believe ECS could make you one. Recheck alignment and if you have adequate tension on the tensioner try a reichard racing pulley. Just my .02
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Doczo6
What does the tensioner look like ( in the middle, no tension at all etc.) You could try a bigger alt pulley I believe ECS could make you one. Recheck alignment and if you have adequate tension on the tensioner try a reichard racing pulley. Just my .02
Check the tensioner and see of its off the bottom stop, A larger alternator pulley will work, but you will have reduced alternator output. The solution I came up with is to add a link between the alternator bracket and the alternator.



This makes belt changing alot easier...just put the belt on, then using a pry bar move the alternator out enough to slip the link in place and insert the bolt. Next move the alternator out to its final place and rotate the link in place and insert the bolt.... done. To change a belt... reverse the process...remove the alternator bolt....push the link up...move the alternator in and change the belt. The dimensions for your link will depend on how much you want to tighten the belt.

Last edited by HIGHRPM; Jul 7, 2006 at 06:34 PM.
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 10:54 PM
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Great idea on the alternator bracket, HIGHRPM. If you have an extra one I will buy it from you. I was sold a set up, but the correct belt size doesn't exist for it. Nuts!!! Paul

Last edited by Emuffinman1; Jul 7, 2006 at 11:08 PM.
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 11:19 PM
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Thanks, for your help.
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Emuffinman1
Great idea on the alternator bracket, HIGHRPM. If you have an extra one I will buy it from you. I was sold a set up, but the correct belt size doesn't exist for it. Nuts!!! Paul
I machined this link for my car so I don't have another one. The problem is that this isn't a one size fits all. What you need to do is check the position of your tensioner....how far is it up off the bottom stop? If its at or near the bottom stop (1/4" or less) Remove the alternator bolt and use a prybar to move the alternator out until the tensioner is about 3/4"-1" off the stop. Record the distance from the alternator bracket bolt hole centerline to the alternator bolt hole centerline. This is the distance your link needs between the 2 holes. Using this technique anyone can set perfect tension on the belt and use a standard belt size. It's a little work to get one made, but its a one time project and you will always have perfect tension and there isn't a possibility of one side slipping (or improper alignment of the alternator) as there is with the "2 link" adjustable ones.... this always leads to the dredded belt shredding problem. Let me know what the measurement is....I can help you from there.

Last edited by HIGHRPM; Jul 9, 2006 at 05:55 PM.
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