I am trying to figure out my first n2o system... I currently own a nx wet kit rpm switch, wot switch, remote bottle opener, bottle heater, switch panel, and brackets.... I believe that I have a nice setup only needing a purge kit and a fuel pressure switch...

My question is should I keep this system or get a dry/direct port 2 stage deal, I have considered this and think that I would need a progressive controller, I am not sure how they work though, can someone explain how they work and it this would be a better way to go, I was thinking that the dual stage would be better for the track, and I am a little wiery of the wet kit at a 150hp level, I would likely run a 75 dry and a 200 dp.

 

If this is your very 1st nitrous setup I would start with something simple like a basic dry kit with the safety features (window, fuel & throttle) and see how you like it... you can expand and add a second wet system later... I am a big fan of TNT's ring kit and they can go from 100-250 simply and safely... are you stick or auto?

 

Stick , I had thought about that but didnt wanna waste my money on something that I would regret later... I was actually considering doing it the other way around because I dont wanna be without a car for too long as this is my dd, and I dont have an extra intake manifold to send away for install of a dp system

 

Stick car with a direct port is a handful... try it with the dry kit 1st

 

I did a two stage as my first entry level kit, I had help and advice from Nitrous Dave, Robert56, and a bunch of others. Vin @ 860 wired and plumbed my kit...

Keep in mind I am totally stock except for a Blackwing and catbacks.

On my dry system I have the smaller injectors being a 99 they are 26#
I went lean on a 75 shot, my 50 shot was fine on the dry. I started to log with EFI live and found my 50 shot dry is running the injectors at a 91% duty cycle, so I am assuming I am lean on the 75 becuase of maxing out the injectors...

The wet I have a Nitro Dave Plate kit, and ran that at 150 with no problems.

I settled on a 50 shot dry @3000 and a 125 wet @ 4000

I plan on upping the dry shot a bit and maybe using the wet to tune the lean outta the dry (have new jets on the way) when my WB is back in the car.

The two stages works good, kinda as a progressive controller, here is a graph of mine as it is now



For that 200 shot I would think you would want to have progressive control on that. The FJO progressive seems to be a favorite of those running big shots.

 

If you haven't installed anything yet, and you're on the fence about buying additional pieces, my suggestion would be to consider setting up a basic system with as many optional pieces to make you feel safe/comfortable and sell the off the pieces that you don't need.

Here's why, IMO nitrous is for the casual speed-nut. Take a look at how you currently drive your car. A prime nitrous candidate is able to pull out of his driveway and cruise down to the end of the block, or pull away from the drivethrough window, even enter the freeway without pushing the pedal through the firewall. If you drive with this level of restraint, then in my opinion a nitrous system is for you. To me, it follows that for something used casually, there is no need to spend alot of money, hence go with a basic/functional/safe nitrous kit.

If you look at the way you currently drive, and find that if you aren't accelerating then you may as well be dead, if you race minivans away from stoplights without a second thought, or if your average gas mileage in your corvette qualifies you for the gas guzzler tax... you're going to quickly regret installing a nitrous kit. Ten refiills on my 15# bottle equates to over 600 bucks... 50 refills.. easy to do in six months for this type of driver would be more than 3,000 dollars. So just go for the fulltime boost, it's where you really need to be.

all opinion of course

 

Good points... nitrous is not cheaper in the long run

A 150 dry shot is enough to roast the tires pretty easy in 1st or 2nd gear on just about any radial tire...

 

I am pretty sure that the h/c full boltons will do fine for most of the time driving and then when I do get to race usualy a couple of times on friday and saturday nights, I have a 10# bottle that costs me $25 to refill and I am only 30 miles away from my refill station

 

I also forgot to add that with my mods I will be at about 460rwhp 420rwtq all of the time anyway, so the spray would only be for big races and the track days, or when I get the need for a swift kick in the *** ... that happens a lot

 

If you plan on spraying a heads and cam car, you want to make sure your bottom end is up to the task... especially the pistons... trust me, I found out the hard way

If you want real power go with a stout LS2 stroker... no headaches and tons of useable power... I have seen 500RWHP NA cars go up against 500RWHP FI cars and the NA car wins 99% of the time!

 

I would love to but I dont have 3 or 4 k to throw at it