KB BAP/Racetronix
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,836
Likes: 110
From: El Paso TX.
i believe the ECS system is $1200. have you thought about using the Racetronix harness with the KAB? i believe it is around $60. i have an 04 with H/C that i am about to spray. i am not too worried about it since we loose about 100 rwhp up here, but too be on the safe side i am installing a FP gauge, wideband, and will be tuning on a mustand dyno.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,068
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by algZO6
i believe the ECS system is $1200. have you thought about using the Racetronix harness with the KAB? i believe it is around $60. i have an 04 with H/C that i am about to spray. i am not too worried about it since we loose about 100 rwhp up here, but too be on the safe side i am installing a FP gauge, wideband, and will be tuning on a mustand dyno.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,836
Likes: 110
From: El Paso TX.
Originally Posted by NeverT00Fast
That was actually one of my original question, that if the Racetronix harness will improve the BAP any. I'm not really sure on what the harness does, but as I understand it is that it allows you to install the BAP in the rear without cutting into the factory harness. Hopefully, someone with that setup can clarify on that.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 831
Likes: 0
From: Poland oh
I am about to venture into the same area. I have a H/C car with a NXL PD trying to spray about 120. Have had a pressure drop during the run. Doing 2 things to try a correct. Add the BAP and put in a progressive controller. Use the second stage output to activate my fuel noid earlier to account for a short lean spike.
Did you wire your BAP to the WOT switch? I was going to tie mine into the window switch.
My pressure is great on just motor. I added the fast 36 injectors as well and now run about 72% duty cycle. On the mustang dyno it has repeatedly made a steady 440RWHP and the pressure never got below 56-57 PSI. My tuner was not worried about that at all because the A/F looked great.
When we hit the shot it would dip to 42 PSI then pick back up to 54 PSI. I've since added an accumulator which marginaly helped. I've also jetted up some since those days which is why I'm adding the BAP and progressive controller. Have not had the time to work on the car for about 3 weeks. Need to install those parts and head back to the tuner.
Did you wire your BAP to the WOT switch? I was going to tie mine into the window switch.
My pressure is great on just motor. I added the fast 36 injectors as well and now run about 72% duty cycle. On the mustang dyno it has repeatedly made a steady 440RWHP and the pressure never got below 56-57 PSI. My tuner was not worried about that at all because the A/F looked great.
When we hit the shot it would dip to 42 PSI then pick back up to 54 PSI. I've since added an accumulator which marginaly helped. I've also jetted up some since those days which is why I'm adding the BAP and progressive controller. Have not had the time to work on the car for about 3 weeks. Need to install those parts and head back to the tuner.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,068
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by ivandrea
I am about to venture into the same area. I have a H/C car with a NXL PD trying to spray about 120. Have had a pressure drop during the run. Doing 2 things to try a correct. Add the BAP and put in a progressive controller. Use the second stage output to activate my fuel noid earlier to account for a short lean spike.
Did you wire your BAP to the WOT switch? I was going to tie mine into the window switch.
My pressure is great on just motor. I added the fast 36 injectors as well and now run about 72% duty cycle. On the mustang dyno it has repeatedly made a steady 440RWHP and the pressure never got below 56-57 PSI. My tuner was not worried about that at all because the A/F looked great.
When we hit the shot it would dip to 42 PSI then pick back up to 54 PSI. I've since added an accumulator which marginaly helped. I've also jetted up some since those days which is why I'm adding the BAP and progressive controller. Have not had the time to work on the car for about 3 weeks. Need to install those parts and head back to the tuner.
Did you wire your BAP to the WOT switch? I was going to tie mine into the window switch.
My pressure is great on just motor. I added the fast 36 injectors as well and now run about 72% duty cycle. On the mustang dyno it has repeatedly made a steady 440RWHP and the pressure never got below 56-57 PSI. My tuner was not worried about that at all because the A/F looked great.
When we hit the shot it would dip to 42 PSI then pick back up to 54 PSI. I've since added an accumulator which marginaly helped. I've also jetted up some since those days which is why I'm adding the BAP and progressive controller. Have not had the time to work on the car for about 3 weeks. Need to install those parts and head back to the tuner.
Do you have a underdrive pulley on your car?
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Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 144
Likes: 2
From: Greenfield Indiana
I have an '04Z TT that dips to 52psi under WOT. I have a BAP and Racetronix harness waiting to be installed. When I realized the harness wasn't as easily accessible as the older models, I aborted the mission. How hard is it to install the racetronix harness on the 04's? Do I have to drop the tank?
Colby
Colby
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,082
Likes: 0
From: eagle mountain utah
I'm using the KB BAP with Racetronix harness. The harness makes a difference and is easy to install. It works with the BAP but had to use different electrical connections than supplied in the kit. 2004 C5.
No, dont have to drop tank for harness. I ran mine through the opening below the door that starts at the rear wheel opening and ends at the front wheel opening. Use an electricians snake available at Home Depot or Lowes.
No, dont have to drop tank for harness. I ran mine through the opening below the door that starts at the rear wheel opening and ends at the front wheel opening. Use an electricians snake available at Home Depot or Lowes.
Last edited by leojnknsC5; Sep 18, 2006 at 09:08 PM.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 652
Likes: 16
From: Upton MA
Originally Posted by glennd
Hi: since you already have your KB up front, I would certainly leave it there, that is where I ran mine. #16 wire has exactly four times the resistance of #10 wire. If you are suppling, lets say 12 amps for sake of discussion to the fuel pump at 17 volts and you have a total of 20 feet of # 16 wire, 10' pos. 10' neg. then you will have .08 ohms resistance @ 12 amps w # 16 wire ='s about 1 volt drop at the pump.
#10 would = about 1/4 volt total drop. Either way not much voltage difference.
I do not know how much ECS charges for there kit. I only needed the part that taps into the fuel tank. I have a bastard system in that I have a 315 lph Bosch in tank and a walboro 255 lph ext paralell pump via the ECS tank cut in. I am running 711 rwhp.
I again, would recommend you talk to the boys at ECS.
#10 would = about 1/4 volt total drop. Either way not much voltage difference.
I do not know how much ECS charges for there kit. I only needed the part that taps into the fuel tank. I have a bastard system in that I have a 315 lph Bosch in tank and a walboro 255 lph ext paralell pump via the ECS tank cut in. I am running 711 rwhp.
I again, would recommend you talk to the boys at ECS.
Hi I am reposting this from the previous page. Now that you have measured the aproximate 1 volt drop to the fuel pump as my post had indicated. If you woud like that 1 volt to be only a .25 volt drop, you can go to the HomeDepot or Lowes (Speed Shop) where they sell # 10 gauge wire that is oil and gas resistant, and run it back from the fuse box / battery area, use an inline fuse and a high current relay at the fuel pump. The fuel pump voltage supply, turn on the power to the relay, in turn the relay brings the #10 gauge wire to the fuel pump. This is a lot of work to go through for .75 volts more at the pump. It should increase the voltage to slightly over 17 volts at the pump, not much improvement will be noticed. The improvement should be about 17.2/16.4 or about 5% more voltage. But I guess that is why people by these special harneses.
Last edited by glennd; Sep 19, 2006 at 12:55 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,068
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by glennd
Hi I am reposting this from the previous page. Now that you have measured the aproximate 1 volt drop to the fuel pump as my post had indicated. If you woud like that 1 volt to be only a .25 volt drop, you can go to the HomeDepot or Lowes (Speed Shop) where they sell # 10 gauge wire that is oil and gas resistant, and run it back from the fuse box / battery area, use an inline fuse and a high current relay at the fuel pump. The fuel pump voltage supply, turn on the power to the relay, in turn the relay brings the #10 gauge wire to the fuel pump. This is a lot of work to go throug for .75 volts more at the pump. It should increase the voltage to slightly over 17 volts at the pump, not much improvement will be noticed. The improvement should be about 17.2/16.4 or about 5% more voltage. But I guess that is why people by these special harneses.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 652
Likes: 16
From: Upton MA
Now that you realize that an extra .8 volts will not do much, I can tell you there is a simple way to get an extra 3+ volts out of the KB. Yes it is going to shorten the pump life, but the on time duty cycle, is so low it might not be a show stopper. I ran my pump at 20.5 volts for about a year, with 20.5 volts, under boost. I eventually changed the fuel sytem and removed the KB.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,068
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Originally Posted by glennd
Now that you realize that an extra .8 volts will not do much, I can tell you there is a simple way to get an extra 3+ volts out of the KB. Yes it is going to shorten the pump life, but the on time duty cycle, is so low it might not be a show stopper. I ran my pump at 20.5 volts for about a year, with 20.5 volts, under boost. I eventually changed the fuel sytem and removed the KB.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 831
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From: Poland oh
Originally Posted by NeverT00Fast
I got the NA application BAP, so it turns on by vacuum when you go WOT. I think my fuel pump or fitler might be bad because the pressure is already dropping without spray. I will try to take a reading on the fuel pump wire right before the pump to check the voltage.
Do you have a underdrive pulley on your car?
Do you have a underdrive pulley on your car?
Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 652
Likes: 16
From: Upton MA
Originally Posted by NeverT00Fast
20.5 volts? How did you do that? I think my pump is on it's last leg already.
First I tried to get inside it, this is not possible, they epoxy the whole electronics board. This only leaves one choice, how to change it from the outside.
Well the Voltage adjustment control is part of a feedback circuit. When adjusted to 0 ohms/ shorted the Kb puts out it's max voltage (17.5) turned to min it adds a 5000 ohm resistance.
So here is what I did remove the control pot from the KB. Take the two wires that go into the KB (if I remember correctly they are black). Connect a 1.5 volt AA cell to those wires, one direction will give you an additional 3+ volts the other direction will subtract 3+ volts, this is when the hobbs switch is closed/ shorted. The battery life with the car on 24/7 calculated to 3+ years, with the car off it shold be close to the shelf life of the battery. I soldered my battery to the wires, not recommended you do not want to overheat the battery, however you can solder to the battery , or buy a 1 cell holder from Radio Shack. In other words the battery replaces the control pot. Just make sure you have it in the correct position , as described above.
Good Luck Glenn
Last edited by glennd; Sep 19, 2006 at 10:44 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,068
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by glennd
This is how I modified my 40 amp KB, my guess is it will be identical for the 20 amp version.
First I tried to get inside it, this is not possible, they epoxy the whole electronics board. This only leaves on choice, how to change it from the outside.
Well the Voltage adjustment control is part of a feedback circuit. When adjusted to 0 ohms/ shorted the Kb puts out it's max voltage (17.5) turned to min it adds a 5000 ohm resistance.
So here is what I did remove the control pot from the KB. Take the two wires that go into the KB (if I remember correctly they are black). Connect a 1.5 volt AA cell to those wires, one direction will give you an additional 3+ volts tyhe other direction will subtract 3+ volts, this is when the hobbs switch is closed/ shorted. The battery life with the car on 24/7 calculated to 3+ years, with the car off it shold be close to the shelf life of the battery. I soldered my battery to the wires, not recommended you do not want to overheat the battery, however you can solder to the battery , or buy a 1 cell holder from Radio Shack. In other words the battery replaces the control pot. Just make sure you have it in the correct position , as described above.
Good Luck Glenn
First I tried to get inside it, this is not possible, they epoxy the whole electronics board. This only leaves on choice, how to change it from the outside.
Well the Voltage adjustment control is part of a feedback circuit. When adjusted to 0 ohms/ shorted the Kb puts out it's max voltage (17.5) turned to min it adds a 5000 ohm resistance.
So here is what I did remove the control pot from the KB. Take the two wires that go into the KB (if I remember correctly they are black). Connect a 1.5 volt AA cell to those wires, one direction will give you an additional 3+ volts tyhe other direction will subtract 3+ volts, this is when the hobbs switch is closed/ shorted. The battery life with the car on 24/7 calculated to 3+ years, with the car off it shold be close to the shelf life of the battery. I soldered my battery to the wires, not recommended you do not want to overheat the battery, however you can solder to the battery , or buy a 1 cell holder from Radio Shack. In other words the battery replaces the control pot. Just make sure you have it in the correct position , as described above.
Good Luck Glenn
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,836
Likes: 110
From: El Paso TX.
Originally Posted by Cleonard
I have an '04Z TT that dips to 52psi under WOT. I have a BAP and Racetronix harness waiting to be installed. When I realized the harness wasn't as easily accessible as the older models, I aborted the mission. How hard is it to install the racetronix harness on the 04's? Do I have to drop the tank?
Colby
Colby
what kind of number were you putting down when it began to drop?