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ok, posting in here since I have a Maggie on the car....getting a rear knock sensor code....I suppose it could be anything from a bad sensor to just a connection.....either way...any harm in driving the car until I get it fixed if it is in fact a bad sensor
It may not be a bad sensor. Any changes you made may be creating a harmonic frequency that will set off the knock sensor. Even valve springs.
Dont push it until you find out.
ok, posting in here since I have a Maggie on the car....getting a rear knock sensor code....I suppose it could be anything from a bad sensor to just a connection.....either way...any harm in driving the car until I get it fixed if it is in fact a bad sensor
TIA
Which rear sensor code are you getting?
More than likely the wire is pinched/broken under the maggie. Its tight quaters under there. If the front is still functioning I would not be paranoid about it till its fixed.
More than likely the wire is pinched/broken under the maggie. Its tight quaters under there. If the front is still functioning I would not be paranoid about it till its fixed.
Phil
front is working ok....getting the P0332 code I believe...car is parked again...driving my Z...yeah I was thinking it may just be a wire
There are few of us that have between one and eight codes go off simultaneously.
Myself and few others I know try and reset them by clearing them and see if they re-occur. I know a few that have done it while on the track or while on a run. I have done that a few times. Bothers the passenger a little. Many times this works. Works on the Mercedes as well. The traction control/brake assist light goes on usually when something wierd happends. Turn off the car, it goes away.
I had two codes go bannanas yesterday on the way to Laguna. I knew they were wrong, very disconcerning, but wrong. Shut the car of and restarted while on the freeway. They went away.
Could be any problem. It think one area on the older cars here is the passenger side wiring harness(very close to manifold/header). The wires are very small and get brittle, sometimes losing connection or are intermittant(this is the worst). Many of the new GM models have multiple hard and soft heat shieding in that area.
I had this problem after my Maggie install. I took the Maggie off, both knock sensors had bad corrosion on them from leakage of my IC Maggie. I replaced the sensors and the wiring harness(which was pinched), cleaned everything up and was still getting po332 so my tuner changed some of the parameters the knock sensors were set at and everything was fine. By the way, I made sure I wasn't getting any pre-detonation before changing the parameters. Hope this helps!
yeah getting the traction control as well.....I have cleared them only to have them come back......car seems to be running fine....my main concern was if the sensor is actually bad and I get into the boost will the lack of the sensor cause issues if I have any knock related problems...