Nitrous Suggestions???
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 428
Likes: 0
From: Loveland (Cincinnati) Ohio
Nitrous Suggestions???
I am looking for suggestions on Nitrous systems. ( brands,wet/dry, HP limits, etc)
Was going to do a Blower, but really thought for the price Nitrous is a better way for me:
I will only use the system at the track (2 or 3 times a year)....
Currently have a 2000 MN6 Vert with basic bolt-on's.
REally looking for a safe set up that will put me in the low to mid 11's.
Current best time is 12.9 on runflats (obviously will pick up a set of sticky ties as well)
Thoughts and suggestions welcome.....also suggestion on a good installer/tuner in the Cincinnati area, but willing to travel for top notch tuner!
Was going to do a Blower, but really thought for the price Nitrous is a better way for me:
I will only use the system at the track (2 or 3 times a year)....
Currently have a 2000 MN6 Vert with basic bolt-on's.
REally looking for a safe set up that will put me in the low to mid 11's.
Current best time is 12.9 on runflats (obviously will pick up a set of sticky ties as well)
Thoughts and suggestions welcome.....also suggestion on a good installer/tuner in the Cincinnati area, but willing to travel for top notch tuner!
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,520
Likes: 2
From: Tacoma WA
Well most know I am a big dry fan. I would suggest our PRO Dry kit if going dry, and our NX MAF kit if going wet. Here is a couple links to get ya started on your choice, should give some insight.
Colonel's Tech Files
Wet vs Dry Thread
Robert
Colonel's Tech Files
Wet vs Dry Thread
Robert
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,121
Likes: 3
From: Shreveport/Bossier Louisiana
St. Jude Donor '08
I went with the Cold Fusion Wet kit with Nitro Dave plate system. it has been nothing but perrfect. NX also has great stuff, cant go wrong with them.
Chris
Chris
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 0
From: Home Southern Maine
St. Jude Donor '08
I did both wet and dry for a two stage system.
Wet IMHO is easier to set up and tune (tuning is a matter of just changing the fuel jets to get the desired AFR). Nitro Daves Plate worked right out of the box to a 150 shot.
Dry may be Safer, but attention to the details is essential such as Nozzle location, and Injectors. I set my Dry system up and found I was limited to a 50 shot (had safe AFR of mid 11's). A 75 shot my AFR was lean (Mid 13's). Easily cured with bigger injectors (just under $300 for 42 # Delphis). Others have successfully run 125 shots dry with the stock injectors.
Be sure to include a Window Switch, Bottle heater, and TR6 plugs on your buy list.
Wet IMHO is easier to set up and tune (tuning is a matter of just changing the fuel jets to get the desired AFR). Nitro Daves Plate worked right out of the box to a 150 shot.
Dry may be Safer, but attention to the details is essential such as Nozzle location, and Injectors. I set my Dry system up and found I was limited to a 50 shot (had safe AFR of mid 11's). A 75 shot my AFR was lean (Mid 13's). Easily cured with bigger injectors (just under $300 for 42 # Delphis). Others have successfully run 125 shots dry with the stock injectors.
Be sure to include a Window Switch, Bottle heater, and TR6 plugs on your buy list.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: silverdale washington
W/ dry you need bigger fuel injectors and run a better chance of losing fuel pressure when spraying, say bye bye to the rotating assembly. However if its well put together and no expense is spared can work well. Wet is fairly easy and safer than all others if it is direct port. NXL is a great kit. Just a heads up your not going to pop on slicks and spray on the line and not break. Have money aside to replace output shaft at a minimum. Also since your mn-6 dont use drag radials. They have stiffer sidewalls and dont absorb the shock of shifting really hard and you will break sooner. use a true drag slick or an et-street.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,520
Likes: 2
From: Tacoma WA
W/ dry you need bigger fuel injectors and run a better chance of losing fuel pressure when spraying, say bye bye to the rotating assembly. However if its well put together and no expense is spared can work well. Wet is fairly easy and safer than all others if it is direct port. NXL is a great kit. Just a heads up your not going to pop on slicks and spray on the line and not break. Have money aside to replace output shaft at a minimum. Also since your mn-6 dont use drag radials. They have stiffer sidewalls and dont absorb the shock of shifting really hard and you will break sooner. use a true drag slick or an et-street.
You state
W/ dry you need bigger fuel injectors and run a better chance of losing fuel pressure when spraying, say bye bye to the rotating assembly
Then you go on to state if it's well put together and no expense spared...blah blah blah. Dry kits are no more expensive than wey hits to set-up, and that is even with adding injectors. Beer paid a lot for his, but Ford SVO 42's can be had for well under 200 bucks. Beer also had the smaller 26lb injectors. On my 28lb injectors I made 480rwhp 5xxrwtq and ran 11.04, and stock fuel pump. Anyway, how much $$ to replace an engine, many find out running wet hits.
Not meant as a personal attack, but just read the thread link. The old wives tales concerning dry hits are being put to bed. Wet is not safer and this is proven and backed up by the facts.
We have the nozzle locations mapped out for the vettes, so you would/will start with a mid 11's a/f. Dry is no harder to tune or set-up than a wet hit, period.
By the way, watch for a new nitrous product that will blow all the nay sayers away, and totally dominate the nitrous seen.
Robert
Last edited by Robert56@RNS; Jan 21, 2007 at 11:35 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 0
From: Home Southern Maine
St. Jude Donor '08
New 42 # Delphi's under $300 shipped (Easy install/ EFI Live). Looking forward to my new dry numbers mid Feb with my additional mods (42# injectors, LS6 intake/headers/Ported TB).
As Robert said I did need to up my injector size for the dry. Todd did not, although his were up there in Duty cycle.
Fuel pump wise I went to a 175 combined Dry/Wet with no issues.
FPSS is a safety that is availible for should the fuel system fail as well as a AFR safety switch (more expensive).
As Robert said I did need to up my injector size for the dry. Todd did not, although his were up there in Duty cycle.
Fuel pump wise I went to a 175 combined Dry/Wet with no issues.
FPSS is a safety that is availible for should the fuel system fail as well as a AFR safety switch (more expensive).
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: silverdale washington
Man the miss information concerning dry hits never ceases to amaze me. I think you should read the wet vs dry thread, so you can get the correct info, and stop posting nonsense.
You state . Yes sometimes bigger injectors are needed if going bigger than your total hp will support. Loosing fuel pressure with dry hits, what a load of crap, wet or dry, the fuel pump and pressure will be taxed the same. Bye bye to the rotating assembly, give one instance of dry hurting an engine, and I'll give 100 wet blown motors. Absolute nonsense.
Then you go on to state if it's well put together and no expense spared...blah blah blah. Dry kits are no more expensive than wey hits to set-up, and that is even with adding injectors. Beer paid a lot for his, but Ford SVO 42's can be had for well under 200 bucks. Beer also had the smaller 26lb injectors. On my 28lb injectors I made 480rwhp 5xxrwtq and ran 11.04, and stock fuel pump. Anyway, how much $$ to replace an engine, many find out running wet hits.
Not meant as a personal attack, but just read the thread link. The old wives tales concerning dry hits are being put to bed. Wet is not safer and this is proven and backed up by the facts.
We have the nozzle locations mapped out for the vettes, so you would/will start with a mid 11's a/f. Dry is no harder to tune or set-up than a wet hit, period.
By the way, watch for a new nitrous product that will blow all the nay sayers away, and totally dominate the nitrous seen.
Robert
You state . Yes sometimes bigger injectors are needed if going bigger than your total hp will support. Loosing fuel pressure with dry hits, what a load of crap, wet or dry, the fuel pump and pressure will be taxed the same. Bye bye to the rotating assembly, give one instance of dry hurting an engine, and I'll give 100 wet blown motors. Absolute nonsense.
Then you go on to state if it's well put together and no expense spared...blah blah blah. Dry kits are no more expensive than wey hits to set-up, and that is even with adding injectors. Beer paid a lot for his, but Ford SVO 42's can be had for well under 200 bucks. Beer also had the smaller 26lb injectors. On my 28lb injectors I made 480rwhp 5xxrwtq and ran 11.04, and stock fuel pump. Anyway, how much $$ to replace an engine, many find out running wet hits.
Not meant as a personal attack, but just read the thread link. The old wives tales concerning dry hits are being put to bed. Wet is not safer and this is proven and backed up by the facts.
We have the nozzle locations mapped out for the vettes, so you would/will start with a mid 11's a/f. Dry is no harder to tune or set-up than a wet hit, period.
By the way, watch for a new nitrous product that will blow all the nay sayers away, and totally dominate the nitrous seen.
Robert
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,520
Likes: 2
From: Tacoma WA
OK smart guys heres somemore facts for ya. You are going to need bigger injectors and since you are running the same fuel rail as stock and w/ direct port which i specifically mentioned you will not be your fuel system will not flow as much as mine period.
Sometimes yes you do need larger injectors. The math for sizing injectors is in the above thread. Did you read my post above, 552bhp on stock injectors? Just depends on your overall hp, mods and every car is different. Many thousands run dry without upsizing injectors, and many run dry with upsized injectors. Not sure on the point your trying to make about the rails. You will find that dry can be had with no lean spike, whereas wet hits normally have a lean spike upon activation.
Next Dry will never hit as hard as a wet kit no matter what anybody tells you, try both and you will not buy a dry kit guaranteed.
This old wive's tale has been been put to rest. When set up correctly, dry hits just as hard as wet. Further more, x amount of nitrous, wet or dry, will make the same power as long as a/f is the same-basic physics. Once again I refer you to the thread above for dyno sheets showing how diffrent nozzle style/location can effect the intial hit. I made over 300 lbs ft of torque at 3200 rpm on a dry 170 hit, as good as any wet. See my sig, no wet hit, blower or turbo(s) has beat this time, now does that tell you that dry hits less or makes less power, no the oppisite. By the way, I have mucho more experiance running wet hits all the way back to the 70's.
And with any nitrous if you set it up wrong and you skimp on safety features your gonna pay.
Correct, but a little missleading. When wet or dry are set-up correctly, even with all the safety goodies, dry has a better margin of safety. When you consider all the mech issue that can pop up on a wet system and cause engine issues, you'll see the difference. Whereas, the same issues do not exist or do not cause problems on dry. I have been stating for years "Try to find someone who has hurt their motor running a properly set-up Dry system", well really no takers. The only issue that pops up is guys trying to go to big for their injectors and going lean, however, that is not properly set-up, and seldom causes any issues.
Dry is an inferior setup to direct port period. Find me somebody who runs a big motor and shoots more than 250 on it that runs a dry shot.
Dry is not inferior to DP. yes when going over about 250/300rwhp a DP is a good idea, but only because of limits of the MAF and computer, not because of inferior design. There are some who are running big hits in the dry DP realm, but they are using aftermarket controllers.
Wont happen. Just because you went cheap, Dont try to justify it and try to make dry sound so much better than driect port because it aint and never will be
I went cheap? Well, I have easly $2k to 3k in my set-up. You may not know this, my 3rd stage is a wet hit. Also, if you to run wet hits, that's fine by me, I am just trying to get the correct info out on the dry hits.
Sometimes yes you do need larger injectors. The math for sizing injectors is in the above thread. Did you read my post above, 552bhp on stock injectors? Just depends on your overall hp, mods and every car is different. Many thousands run dry without upsizing injectors, and many run dry with upsized injectors. Not sure on the point your trying to make about the rails. You will find that dry can be had with no lean spike, whereas wet hits normally have a lean spike upon activation.
Next Dry will never hit as hard as a wet kit no matter what anybody tells you, try both and you will not buy a dry kit guaranteed.
This old wive's tale has been been put to rest. When set up correctly, dry hits just as hard as wet. Further more, x amount of nitrous, wet or dry, will make the same power as long as a/f is the same-basic physics. Once again I refer you to the thread above for dyno sheets showing how diffrent nozzle style/location can effect the intial hit. I made over 300 lbs ft of torque at 3200 rpm on a dry 170 hit, as good as any wet. See my sig, no wet hit, blower or turbo(s) has beat this time, now does that tell you that dry hits less or makes less power, no the oppisite. By the way, I have mucho more experiance running wet hits all the way back to the 70's.
And with any nitrous if you set it up wrong and you skimp on safety features your gonna pay.
Correct, but a little missleading. When wet or dry are set-up correctly, even with all the safety goodies, dry has a better margin of safety. When you consider all the mech issue that can pop up on a wet system and cause engine issues, you'll see the difference. Whereas, the same issues do not exist or do not cause problems on dry. I have been stating for years "Try to find someone who has hurt their motor running a properly set-up Dry system", well really no takers. The only issue that pops up is guys trying to go to big for their injectors and going lean, however, that is not properly set-up, and seldom causes any issues.
Dry is an inferior setup to direct port period. Find me somebody who runs a big motor and shoots more than 250 on it that runs a dry shot.
Dry is not inferior to DP. yes when going over about 250/300rwhp a DP is a good idea, but only because of limits of the MAF and computer, not because of inferior design. There are some who are running big hits in the dry DP realm, but they are using aftermarket controllers.
Wont happen. Just because you went cheap, Dont try to justify it and try to make dry sound so much better than driect port because it aint and never will be
I went cheap? Well, I have easly $2k to 3k in my set-up. You may not know this, my 3rd stage is a wet hit. Also, if you to run wet hits, that's fine by me, I am just trying to get the correct info out on the dry hits.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 0
From: Home Southern Maine
St. Jude Donor '08
OK smart guys heres somemore facts for ya. You are going to need bigger injectors and since you are running the same fuel rail as stock and w/ direct port which i specifically mentioned you will not be your fuel system will not flow as much as mine period. Next Dry will never hit as hard as a wet kit no matter what anybody tells you, try both and you will not buy a dry kit guaranteed. And with any nitrous if you set it up wrong and you skimp on safety features your gonna pay. Dry is an inferior setup to direct port period. Find me somebody who runs a big motor and shoots more than 250 on it that runs a dry shot. Wont happen. Just because you went cheap, Dont try to justify it and try to make dry sound so much better than driect port because it aint and never will be
first time I been accused of that 
I can respect your Direct Port view but everyone may not be interested in Direct Port as you are, Personally I am not interested in swapping 16 jets (each jet costing $4-5) everytime I want to go from say a 100 shot to a 150.
There are different ways to get the same results. Ohiostatefan says he is going to the track once or twice a year, it sounds to me like a potential casual Nitrous user. 11's with bolt ons, probably a 150 shot would easily do the trick, I did not see anywhere ohiostatefan saying he wanted a more than a 250 shot?
try both and you will not buy a dry kit guaranteed.
I'll do the wet dry comparison next time on the dyno (Mid Feb). I will use the same nitrous jet and target the same AFR with the same activation points. I doubt there will be much of difference, if any on 100 shot. Why a 100 shot you may question? Thats middle of road for a casual user.
Like I said, I never been accused of being "a smart guy" (I don't think Robert has either
J/K). Now I have been accused of making some kick *** panels 
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 428
Likes: 0
From: Loveland (Cincinnati) Ohio
Wow !! Did I stir up trouble or what??? 
Beer - Great looking install....wanna do mine? You are dead on with your assessment....Basic set up for a few times a year.....with a clean install...only looking for 11's and already run 12's on runflats.
Love the banter...keep it going!
Beer - Great looking install....wanna do mine? You are dead on with your assessment....Basic set up for a few times a year.....with a clean install...only looking for 11's and already run 12's on runflats.
Love the banter...keep it going!
Collections Hold
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,520
Likes: 2
From: Tacoma WA
Wow !! Did I stir up trouble or what???
Beer - Great looking install....wanna do mine? You are dead on with your assessment....Basic set up for a few times a year.....with a clean install...only looking for 11's and already run 12's on runflats.
Love the banter...keep it going!
Beer - Great looking install....wanna do mine? You are dead on with your assessment....Basic set up for a few times a year.....with a clean install...only looking for 11's and already run 12's on runflats.
Love the banter...keep it going!
Banter is good, it allways gets the info out.
Robert
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 428
Likes: 0
From: Loveland (Cincinnati) Ohio
Robert - Banter is great...really lets the cream rise to the top!
Thanks for your input on this....
I really think Nitrous is the best bet for me.....given my limited use and modest 11 second 1/4 mile expectation.
Thanks for your input on this....
I really think Nitrous is the best bet for me.....given my limited use and modest 11 second 1/4 mile expectation.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,258
Likes: 0
From: Home Southern Maine
St. Jude Donor '08
I would suggest a Wet plate kit. This way you are not putting holes in the airbridge (Wet Kit) or holes your Air intake (Dry Kit). The plate is easily removed if you wish to sell the car (and the plate separately).
Plate kits can go to about 200 HP which would easily get your goal. It worked right out of the box, and was easy to tune with some extra fuel jets.
Only lose end is the tune which is easly dealt with a handheld tuner, HPT, EFI Live, or your local tuner.
I would do the dry kit also again, I would just expect to upgrade at least the injectors.
Last edited by Beer99C5@FastbirdPerf.com; Jan 22, 2007 at 08:48 PM.
