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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 04:28 AM
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Default Decided to go dry

Well after reading LS1 tech for a long time I have decided that the dry nitrous kit is the way to go for me. Just a few questions before I make my purchase.

1. What is the best brand to use on an 02 6 speed?
2. Are my stock injectors strong enough to handle 100 shot?
3. Are there any other things I should do/alter to run safer?

Thanks for your help guys. I can't wait to get the kit installed and smoke some vipers.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinrt2001
Well after reading LS1 tech for a long time I have decided that the dry nitrous kit is the way to go for me. Just a few questions before I make my purchase.

1. What is the best brand to use on an 02 6 speed?
2. Are my stock injectors strong enough to handle 100 shot?
3. Are there any other things I should do/alter to run safer?

Thanks for your help guys. I can't wait to get the kit installed and smoke some vipers.

NX is popular but does not make a "Dry" kit. They do sell Dry Nozzles.




Likely your stock injectors will be OK you have the 28 # (I had the 26# and had issues).

A base kit is not eveything you need, your going to want to add a heater, a window Switch and TR6 plugs gapped at .035.

Feel free to PM, Robert56, Todd156k, myself and some others are running dry.

Last edited by Beer99C5@FastbirdPerf.com; Apr 20, 2007 at 05:29 AM.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 02:18 PM
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Beer, i was under the impression that only the 97-98 had 28#'s and all others switched to 26#. Since he has an 02 won't he have to swap inj as i do since i'm a 99. I believe you told me to just go the 30's and not mess with the 28's in a post from last night that I should be ok with a 100 dry shot. Along with the other accessories you mentioned here as well.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by chris308
Beer, i was under the impression that only the 97-98 had 28#'s and all others switched to 26#. Since he has an 02 won't he have to swap inj as i do since i'm a 99. I believe you told me to just go the 30's and not mess with the 28's in a post from last night that I should be ok with a 100 dry shot. Along with the other accessories you mentioned here as well.

Chris, 97-98 had 28's, 99-00 had the 26#'s 01-04 got the 28's.

Lots of people are spraying dry with both 26's and 28's successfully.
When your spraying (wet or dry) you are shooting for an AFR under 12.

Some tuners will tune richer than 12 (say 10-11) for it to be even safer (Bottle Pressure effects the AFR, have someone bump the pressure to say 1100-1150 and it be leaner than the 950-1000 most kits are rated for).

Here is my dry shot at 50 using the factory 26# injectors. You can see the AFR is under 12...this is good.



Now here is a 75 shot, you can see the AFR rises above 12 at a pretty good rate. This is the car running out of injector.



After these test, we moved on to the wet plate, we sprayed 50, 100, 150 with no problem (plenty of fuel pump). We then did some test with a combo (50 Dry and 150 Wet), then we settled for a 50 dry/125 wet combo as my final setup (last year).

I got EFI live shortly after that.
Here is a 50 dry shot in EFI Live with the factory 26's



You can see above, that the highlighted area for the IDC 106% is the max. When the injector is at 100, it is static...it is just sitting there wide open. Most people believe 85% duty cycle is a good safe value. The injectors can exceed a 100% its just not a good thing to do...

Here is a 100 shot with 42# injectors



Injector Duty Cycle a nice 58%

My recommendation to you was since your changing the injectors go bigger, he asked if he could spray 100-125 with the 28's, yes he can, and he has the 28's already, if he gets hooked on the juice, he will need to up the 28's to go higher than 100-125 Dry.

EDIT: More Things to look for when Spraying:

KR is Knock retard, if it is present most will pull the same amount of timing seen in the KR in the tune to prevent the KR from returning.

Commanded AFR is 11.7 (AFR:1 value in chart above) this is what the PCM is telling the car to do, in my case, you can see I have an actual 10 to low 11's (AFR_LC11). You want to be around 11.5-11.8 for the most power safely.

Tuning (what i am trying to learn now) is being able to match up all the various tables that have what GM thinks is the avg for most cars running a particular Operating System, and make them the actual values your car has. When your commanded matches your actual AFR in the various modes, you know you done good...LOL I still have some work to do.

Beer

Last edited by Beer99C5@FastbirdPerf.com; Apr 20, 2007 at 07:36 PM.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 06:55 PM
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thanks for setting me straight!!

edit to add: whats everyones choice for injectors around here and where to get them? Thanks.
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 07:15 PM
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I went with the 42 # Delphis. I got them from Harris Speed Works under $300.

When I was asking, most people recommended the SVO greentops (Ford 42# injectors).

May I am going back to the dyno to see how far i can go with the 42's.

Here is a 42# Delphi (Left) and a stock 26# (Right)
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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Have you seen Todds signature. Just in case you step up from the 100 shot for the same money or just a little more you can get the 42# from harris. I also am going with a 100 dry shot but am going with the delphi 42#'s just in case 100 shot isn't enough.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 11:58 AM
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so a tuner can make the car driveable with either 30# or 42's even when not on the spray? I may just do that then.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by chris308
so a tuner can make the car driveable with either 30# or 42's even when not on the spray? I may just do that then.
Yes, they just rescale your tables and everything runs the same n/a as stock injectors.
If upgrading I would go with 42lber's, then you'll have room to grow.

Smokin, the stock tune is very conducive to dry hits. Upto a 150 shot, as long as you have good gas and the injectors, nothing really needs to be changed. Timing and a/f will be fine, as long as proper nozzle placement, and that's the key to good a/f on the spray. A window sw is mandatory from the start for safety. Add ons are great like the B/H and such are great. I ran a 135rwhp dry shot on stock 28 injectors and reached 480rwhp and 5xx torque. Now with all that said, still logging for KR and a/f and inj DC should be done for ultimate safety, and this could all be done at time of inj upgrading. Going dry was a wise choice.
Robert
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 09:43 PM
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Robert,

Just wondering as I am kinda getting a mixed signal. I do have the stockl 28lb injectors as far as I know(02 non Z06 6 speed). So I should pretty much bolt it up and Im good to go ? No other additional changed needed except for the safety precations such as a B/H and window switch...etc? Any certain brand that you personally recommend? I see NX express is pretty populare but I have been told that they do not sell a "dry kit" but the do have dry nozzles? And as for the location towards the MAF I will continue to do more reading before I ask stupid questions that someone else has already asked. Thanks again for your help. I would like to order ASAP as my friend just picked up his car. We are racing tonight and he is going to win but I would like to see by how much. That way I will know how much better my car is on the street when we race again with the NOS. Thanks again.
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 10:26 PM
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yes, on a basic stock motor/inj (28's)/fuel pump your normally good to go on a 100/125 hit. No timing needs to be pulled on hits 150 and below, and fueling is normally fine with good nozzle placement. Still it is best to log parameters for ultimate safety, this way you know for a fact that your good. Just run the highest pump gas (octane) in your area, and run NGK Tr6 plugs gapped at .035. Check out Harris Speed Works for some great dry kits, ask for Matt. You can check out either of my personal sites in sig for known good nozzle locations.
Robert
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 10:35 PM
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What Air Cleaner you running smoking?
Robert has the Vararam, I got the Blackwing, and Todd has a K&N.
All three are running dual nozzles.
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 01:06 AM
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I have some off brand company......it might be vararam but i dont think so.....I was thinking about purchasing the blackwing though. Mine has the dual filters on it right now. Thanks for all your help guys. Im going to check out the websites soon and order hopefully tomorrow or monday. Should be up and running next week. Any you guys from WI by the way? we have an awesome car show coming up soon in May. Lots of muscle cars and lots of late night street racing. Let me know if you are interested. Thanks again.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 02:42 PM
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I placed my order today from Harris Speed Works for my dry nos kit. I also order the FPSS, a purge kit, the NGK plugs( I think TR6s ?), and the end caps for the FPSS. They were out of the bottle heaters and the window switches. Any other companies that you guys would recommend ? My stuff should be here this week sometime so I would like to be up and running this weekend. Any additional help is appreciated. Thanks again
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 06:25 PM
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I am running a trick two stage window switch, and a dynotune heater.


Here is the Dynotune Heater


There are two styles, the Black one is rubberized and grips the bottle really well, the other choice is orange.

Depending on what your doing with the bottle, another option to the heater is the 860 Heated Bottle Bracket (less clutter on the install), its a little more but is real clean install wise.


PM for links and more info if your interested as they are not site sponsors here at the Corvette Forum.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 01:12 PM
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Smokinrt2001 - read my last posting on the thread "Wet vs. Dry" on LS1tech. Might help you with placement of your nozzles.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 10:19 PM
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Sorry but I can't seem to find the pics......can u send me the link ? That would be very helpful. Install will start tomorrow if HSW comes like it should. Thanks again.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 10:30 PM
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Here it is, long but mucho info.
Wet vs Dry Thread
Robert
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