Decided to go dry
1. What is the best brand to use on an 02 6 speed?
2. Are my stock injectors strong enough to handle 100 shot?
3. Are there any other things I should do/alter to run safer?
Thanks for your help guys. I can't wait to get the kit installed and smoke some vipers.
1. What is the best brand to use on an 02 6 speed?
2. Are my stock injectors strong enough to handle 100 shot?
3. Are there any other things I should do/alter to run safer?
Thanks for your help guys. I can't wait to get the kit installed and smoke some vipers.
NX is popular but does not make a "Dry" kit. They do sell Dry Nozzles.
Likely your stock injectors will be OK you have the 28 # (I had the 26# and had issues).
A base kit is not eveything you need, your going to want to add a heater, a window Switch and TR6 plugs gapped at .035.
Feel free to PM, Robert56, Todd156k, myself and some others are running dry.
Last edited by Beer99C5@FastbirdPerf.com; Apr 20, 2007 at 05:29 AM.
Chris, 97-98 had 28's, 99-00 had the 26#'s 01-04 got the 28's.
Lots of people are spraying dry with both 26's and 28's successfully.
When your spraying (wet or dry) you are shooting for an AFR under 12.
Some tuners will tune richer than 12 (say 10-11) for it to be even safer (Bottle Pressure effects the AFR, have someone bump the pressure to say 1100-1150 and it be leaner than the 950-1000 most kits are rated for).
Here is my dry shot at 50 using the factory 26# injectors. You can see the AFR is under 12...this is good.

Now here is a 75 shot, you can see the AFR rises above 12 at a pretty good rate. This is the car running out of injector.

After these test, we moved on to the wet plate, we sprayed 50, 100, 150 with no problem (plenty of fuel pump). We then did some test with a combo (50 Dry and 150 Wet), then we settled for a 50 dry/125 wet combo as my final setup (last year).
I got EFI live shortly after that.
Here is a 50 dry shot in EFI Live with the factory 26's

You can see above, that the highlighted area for the IDC 106% is the max. When the injector is at 100, it is static...it is just sitting there wide open. Most people believe 85% duty cycle is a good safe value. The injectors can exceed a 100% its just not a good thing to do...
Here is a 100 shot with 42# injectors

Injector Duty Cycle a nice 58%
My recommendation to you was since your changing the injectors go bigger, he asked if he could spray 100-125 with the 28's, yes he can, and he has the 28's already, if he gets hooked on the juice, he will need to up the 28's to go higher than 100-125 Dry.
EDIT: More Things to look for when Spraying:
KR is Knock retard, if it is present most will pull the same amount of timing seen in the KR in the tune to prevent the KR from returning.
Commanded AFR is 11.7 (AFR:1 value in chart above) this is what the PCM is telling the car to do, in my case, you can see I have an actual 10 to low 11's (AFR_LC11). You want to be around 11.5-11.8 for the most power safely.
Tuning (what i am trying to learn now) is being able to match up all the various tables that have what GM thinks is the avg for most cars running a particular Operating System, and make them the actual values your car has. When your commanded matches your actual AFR in the various modes, you know you done good...LOL I still have some work to do.
Beer
Last edited by Beer99C5@FastbirdPerf.com; Apr 20, 2007 at 07:36 PM.
When I was asking, most people recommended the SVO greentops (Ford 42# injectors).
May I am going back to the dyno to see how far i can go with the 42's.
Here is a 42# Delphi (Left) and a stock 26# (Right)
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If upgrading I would go with 42lber's, then you'll have room to grow.
Smokin, the stock tune is very conducive to dry hits. Upto a 150 shot, as long as you have good gas and the injectors, nothing really needs to be changed. Timing and a/f will be fine, as long as proper nozzle placement, and that's the key to good a/f on the spray. A window sw is mandatory from the start for safety. Add ons are great like the B/H and such are great. I ran a 135rwhp dry shot on stock 28 injectors and reached 480rwhp and 5xx torque. Now with all that said, still logging for KR and a/f and inj DC should be done for ultimate safety, and this could all be done at time of inj upgrading. Going dry was a wise choice.
Robert
Just wondering as I am kinda getting a mixed signal. I do have the stockl 28lb injectors as far as I know(02 non Z06 6 speed). So I should pretty much bolt it up and Im good to go ? No other additional changed needed except for the safety precations such as a B/H and window switch...etc? Any certain brand that you personally recommend? I see NX express is pretty populare but I have been told that they do not sell a "dry kit" but the do have dry nozzles? And as for the location towards the MAF I will continue to do more reading before I ask stupid questions that someone else has already asked. Thanks again for your help. I would like to order ASAP as my friend just picked up his car. We are racing tonight and he is going to win but I would like to see by how much. That way I will know how much better my car is on the street when we race again with the NOS. Thanks again.
Robert
Here is the Dynotune Heater
There are two styles, the Black one is rubberized and grips the bottle really well, the other choice is orange.
Depending on what your doing with the bottle, another option to the heater is the 860 Heated Bottle Bracket (less clutter on the install), its a little more but is real clean install wise.
PM for links and more info if your interested as they are not site sponsors here at the Corvette Forum.







