95BlueBomber

Alot of these cars have problems maxing out there fuel pumps, they boost reference the fuel to up the dose when in boost. As for a regulator that boost referenced I dont prefer. I want 60PSI, no more no less. All the way through to redline. When you get into boost referenced regulators you would have to monitor fuel pressure and adjust the IFR table in order to have a spot on tune. Thats just my .02

No Juice

Thats kind of what I was thinking, why do you need more than 60psi?

Tony @ MPH

To get more flow out of your injectors without going to bigger injectors.

RpeterK

Well
60 psi is good if your not going to run allot boost. 60psi fuel pressure with 20 pounds of boost in the manifold means that you only have 40 psi of fuel pressure not 60. Don't know of anyone that is making serious hp without a boost referenced reg. You can run out of injector real quick. Just dosen't make sence not to.

95BlueBomber

You guys have more experience with high amounts of boost and high power than I do. If I was making that type of power in a "street" car I would get a driver and larger injectors. I would be afraid to push injectors further than they should be, by putting more pressure to them you will max them out quicker and top the injector duty cycle. Again I am no pro when it comes to high boost and high power.

eb02z06

Fuel pressure will be boost referenced to a point-no more than 85psi. Lonnie and I discussed this at length tonight. Since factory rail pressure is 58 psi-i was seeing 20 on the guage(actually buried it), that means under boost my fuel pressure will rise to 78psi. The mototrons are rated 63lbs at 43.5 psi-that means at our rail pressure these injectors are actually 72lbs an hour, at 78 psi they are actually a 84lb. I'm pretty sure they will make 900 rwhp at 75 psi-i mean i was making 885 with 40 psi and my AFr went to 11.5. I'm going to put a restrictor on the blower and limit to no more than 20 psi and shoot for 900 rwhp at 6500. I do have a driver box and 96's but I will try that after saturday if I have problem with the duals. Lonnie is so confident in his setup that he feels the BAP is not even needed. I have everyhting in my hands today-the whole setup is no longer than stock-the whole wiring harness is included with relays for both pumps, hobb switch to fire the second pump etc-it's plug and play-no cutting or splicing is required.

All that is required is you send in your stock fuel pump. Cost will be right around $650-$700.

95BlueBomber

$650-$700 no offense to Lonnie but wow!

eb02z06

I think it's pretty fair-he's using all Racetronix components, a whole new harness, hobbs switch 2 new pumps.

I mean compare that with just adding a Bosch in the bucket and that was like $500.

If it can hold 900 rwhp-use stock rails and lines-it's a good deal.

Tomulrich

Why not setup the intank canister that holds the pump with a staight 5/8" pick up and 1/2" return(where the stock pump would normally be )and pump /weld some -10 and -8 fittings in the tanks plate and run one external MP4303 Magaflow pump (1500HP rating). -10 line to the rails and -8 return. This eliminates the wiring and plumbing nightmare....its a very clean and functional setup.....I have run my tank as low as 2 gallons...no problems because you keep the original baffle/canister. This does take some modification ....but works great...off of the external pump you use a T fitting with a .050 jet to feed the siphon jet pump in the pass tank.

I dont have pictures...sorry......

Tom Ulrich

preston

Sounds like you're having success with that but the reason more people don't run that type of system IMO is that the big external pumps are very loud. Also running a big pump like that without a step down box will really heat up the fuel which is a problem in hot stop and go driving as the tank gets low. The hot fuel can cause loss of fuel pressure under subsequent high boost driving and puts a lot of wear and tear on the pump and can even cause vapor lock syptoms.

2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

whats the turn around time on this conversion?

eb02z06

Just to update I just installed the pumps today-droped right into the tank with no cursing or swearing and no need to remove the control arm. All that's left is to mount the relays and plug in the wires-no cutting or splicing is involved-it's all plug and play.

mitymikec

Way to get it done..

Tomulrich

I actually have no heating issues, the pump is quiet ..cannot even hear it...it is smaller than the BG and aeromotive pumps and quieter.
I drove 5 hrs ..non stop no vapor lock. Very clean setup. No messing with multiple pumps wiring switches ...etc. Many things to go wrong. I see posts all the time with problems.

In my opinion my setup and design is far superior than any other design out there....and more efficient. Until you have tested the system I designed....you wont know.

Also intank pumps heat fuel as well......

Just my opinion

Tom Ulrich

0Jeff @ TPE

Considering a single 255 is around 300 bucks, and a modified Bosch 420 assembly is 500+ bucks, 650-700 is actually a bargain.
That is, if you TRUELY dont need anything else to run the system. And i dont mean that its "Not Necessary." I mean you flat-dont-need-it..

eb02z06

I will let everyone know tomorrow if it works. I'm going to shoot for 900 rwhp-considering i'm at 885@5800 it shouldn't be a problem if the car can rev out to 6600. I will have to detune it, pull timing( currently running 14 degrees) and add fuel-if it can maintain a AFR of 10.8 up to 6600 where in business. Consider this is through a auto, spinning a centri blower that is well over a 1000 horsepower at the crank.

STEALTH 99 C5

Arun , Good luck with it , If I were you , I wouldn't worry about trying to reach a certain dyno number , put a safe , conservative tune in it and get it down the track a few times , then tweak it from there , a lot of people on this forum are easily impressed by dyno numbers , I could care less what my car dynos , it's reliability and track performance that matters most . Have fun at Norwalk .

Earl H

The final ascension/enlightened state of the FI C5 owner....

Man, my 1st 9 second pass felt so much better than my 750rwhp dyno run.

eb02z06

I agree with you 100% Mike-just praying it holds pressure up to Redline. Unfortunatley the dyno is the only place I can test it right now or else it will rear it's ugly face at the track.
Are you gonna come out to at least have some brewski's with us?

eb02z06

Some results-made over 900 rwhp-920 to be exact. But fuel pressure dropped-BUT-not instantly-slowly-why?-Well i'm 99.9% sure it has to do with my tune. On my PE table my figures go from 1.1@5200 to 2.1@5600. From looking at the logs duty cycle is 70% at 5000 then jumps to 130% at 5600-this follows the same way the PE is setup. I was etting my PE up this way with the bosch pump-but i think imessd up-if i would of gradually made it increase it would of worked. MY AFR is 10.1 up to 4900 then rises to 11.6 up to 6000. I'm confident to say that you can make 800 rwhp-with stock lines(feed and return), 60lb injectors and no KB BAP. I'm putting in 96's right now and will test again on Tuesday. As a side note-don't forget how much power it takes to spin a Centri blower-take that into consideration and