If you wanted too achive the following, how would you go about it?


TTix/APS setup, Forged Motor. The idea....

Have a TT car that has 3 tunes in one computer.
1: Very safe ride around tune. 6 PSI or so....
2: Mid lvl performance 7-8
3: Ready too race boost, boost too 10 psi or so.

Have the abilty too hit a switch, push a button (what ever) too select
#1-3 tunes.

Have the abilty too use Alchy only on tune 2-3....

Be able too run the alchy differant on tune 2-3....

All 3 tunes should be able too be switched without much down time.
a real time type toggle switch....Or computer.

All 3 tunes will have differant (perfect tunes) for the way the engine is run???

So here is a example:


Im sitting at a light in tune #1 (daily safe drive around tune. And some
kid in a 500.00 car wants too hear the engine. (all good)
I want too hit a switch/button too goto tune #2. Which change the turbo's psi/changes the Alchy injecton times/changes all this too
run at a perfect tune for that power lvl....

Then i am driving (on the track) And i want too do a 1/4 run.
So i go too tune 3# that is the max safe tune the engine can handle.
I have max alchy injection, The tune is setup for this power (keeping the car safe at max untill the car is reset too tune #1) After my 1/4
mile run i want too be able too see the engine info too make sure the tune/engine is fine with no problems. Then i will switch too tune #1
and the engine returns too a safe mode for daily driving.

I hope i explained what im looking for ok, I know its able to be done,
just not sure how too go about it.

Thanks for your suggestions!

 

I'm curious as to if its going to be or is a forged motor, Why not just leave it at 9-10lbs.? If its got a good tune I don't see why it would matter from running 6-10lbs. Your already forged and running alchy so just get a fatter tune and leave it at 9-10lbs. just my $.02

 

Well thats a good question, And prob. the right way too do it. But im
thinking of steath..... I want a car that runs/sounds stock. With a flick
of a switch all hell kinda breaks outs! Also for long term durability. Im about 100% sure that running a car @ 5 psi around town On a very safe
tune would be much more reliable then running @ 9 psi+ even if your not
into it. 9-12 Psi even if your not running hard, it has too put 'more' stress
on the engine then running around @ 5 psi or less.
Also the tunes could be tweaked too allow SOMEWHAT 'safe operation at max lvls'
So tune #3 could be a maxed out pure race tune that you would never
want to drive around for long periods of time. So On 3# tune, you get about 100%
of your target power, and you dont need to risk driving that tune around town all day long.
Heck, you could even go as far as too add tunes, for differant lvls of outside temp/elv./ect ect



Hope that is explained well. Thanks again!

note: i could be wrong if so let me know. i would love too hear some how it can be done.

 

It's fairly easy to do with any turbo kit. You can either do an SD tune or what was just done on my car is they do the base tune with no alchy. There is four channels in the boost controller. The base tune is channel 1 and then channel 2 steps up the boost, channel 3 steps up more, and channel 4 is the high boost. Channel 2 the tune and add alchy to supplemement fuel. Channel 3 they add more alchy by turning the little gain ****, channel 4 even more alchy by turning the know. All you would have to do is change the channel on the boost controller and increase the gain. Not so bad and I think it accomplishes what you were looking for.
Dan

 

not because the boost controller is set at 10psi means it will hit it all day long. keep it simple.

 

Thats about what im looking for with one thing added.
In a nut shell, I want the engine tune too change along with each new lvl of boost.

These numbers are just a 'example'......

im running 5 psi boot and say timing @ 11 w/little alchy
When i hit #2 i want the Whole system too change not just
the boost and alchy. I want the perfect tune for each boost lvl.
Timing/air fuel/max rpm/alchy/ect ect....
these will change with every push of the button.

tune lvl #4: this would be the full out race tune. #4
would have a more radical timing pattern for more power
it would keep the air fuel at a lvl good for racing,
Also would spray the alchy too keep the engine safe
during this burst, which is on the edge of max engine
performance. And this was for a fast burst, when race
is over, go back too #1

#1 would be what people call a real safe tune
Air fuel set on the very safe side, Timming ultra safe
Boost low, ect ect

Above is just examples, I pulled numbers out me !zz.
But I think it shows what i want my results too be.

Reason?

I want the engine to be running a ideal tune engine/boost
At all times no matter if im going too the store/showing off for some
chick's at a light/or trying too kill some young yuppie punk in his daddys
gt3....(on a track)
I know it can be done, i saw a car that had a toggle switch system that held realtime tunes in its computer. Flip the switch it flashed the cars comp. with new tune. I need too know what
product too use for this.
Thanks all

 

You could tune it for level 4, and get levels 1,2 and 3 by using restraint with your right foot.

 

Build the motor to handle the boost and turn it up or down via boost controller. Changing tunes between 6 and 10 psi is not worth the agravation or required.

On pump gas and alky spray you can easily run 10 PSI, more than enough for any street situation. The car just ran 10.03 @ 136 at Norwalk on slicks in 86 degree humid weather on the street tune and pump gas.

I have a stage X 402, started at 6 psi, got used to it, now at 10, got used to it, installing boost controller next...

At 10 PSI the car is scary (unsafe) with 335 street tires, if you hammer the right foot it annihilates the tires from almost any speed. The big (345) DR's hook up well on the street but will send you in the ditch if someone spits on the road...

Anything more than 10-12 PSI on the street is useless.

If your on slicks at the track, you can always turn it up some more and adjust timing depending upon fuel.

 

I run 10#'s on the street, and can run 14#'s plus at the track on the same tune via a boost controller. No need for three different tunes if the high boost tune is done right. Like the guys above said right foot maturity is key when driving a high horsepower car on the street or track.

 

Good info thanks all. I guess a good boost Cont. is the best idea then .

 

SD is they way to go for what you are looking for. The new custom operationg systems are great for turbo cars. I'm currently working on my 2 bar tune. It actually saved my motor last week at the track when my alchy injection wasn't working. Base fueling kept the afr's in check. The alky is primiarily used to keep IAT's in check and for fuel supplementation when I run out of pump/injector.

 

 

Good info from earl and max thanks.

Ill ask this simple. true or false...........

When running a boost controller, Its a good idea too have
a differant tune for each lvl of boost used?


I find it a 'short cut' too use the same shifts/timeing/alch injection/
air/ ect ect, on 5 psi as i would in a race setting @ 10psi?

 

With an SD tune, the ECU will see the amount of manifold pressure and compensate. So if you turn the boost controller up, if you tuned for that boost level during initial tune, the ECU will have the necessary info to give you what you need. So it's one tune that covers all different levels of boost. That's one of the big reasons SD is much better for FI than going the MAF'd/power enrichment route.

 

Thats good stuff max. So i read this as,

with this type of tune, if i am running the car at 5 psi
(daily driving) the ecu knows this and i can tune the car
for highway shift points, best gas mileage, and a basic
SAFE tune.
But if i use my boost controller and just got too beat this viper
and go too 10 psi (assuming that my motor is built for it)
The tune will AUTO switch the ECU too how ever i want the car too
run @ 10 psi. Inclu. the shift points, air/timming ect ect?
If this is right then im in like flynn.

 

If tuned correctly the ECU will compensate for Fuel/Timing requirements vs varying levels of boost pressure.

The shift points are a different story. You would set the shift points under the highest expected power level(most boost) so that they are correct there. At lower boost levels the shift points will be lower than on the higher boost levels because the ECU will have less of a tendency to over shoot the MPH at which a particular shift is suppose to occur at. Shifts are based on MPH, when you make more power the change in RPM is faster than at lower power levels. This creates a difference in shift points vs power level given the same car and setup.

Max

 

I wanted to do the same thing with my TTi and a mutil boost controller.
I was lokking for a normal or ddriver tune, with 2-3 others for controlling the turbo hit at the wheels for good tractions and another for full race boost. My tuner and i agreed on a safe max of 600rwhp- I'm on stock bottomend. The issue what we hit that with the base boost, even with a 5lbs spring the kit makes 7psi as the minimum power level, unless you place retrictors on the intakes. So, we stopped at 7psi and 600rwhp.
I'm saving the multi controller for when a forged the motor down the road....