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I have the Autometer Cobalt boost guage and Fuel pressure guauges in pillar pod. Fuel pressure guage lights up fine. My boost guage lights up for only 5 secs, then goes dark. Is there a reason it would be wired into a temporary power source, like int lights or something. How should it be wired? Can I just patch the power wire into the Fuel guage power wire? Thanks for the help.
I have the Autometer Cobalt boost guage and Fuel pressure guauges in pillar pod. Fuel pressure guage lights up fine. My boost guage lights up for only 5 secs, then goes dark. Is there a reason it would be wired into a temporary power source, like int lights or something. How should it be wired? Can I just patch the power wire into the Fuel guage power wire? Thanks for the help.
as long as both lines are fused, you should be fine. (Mine is setup the same way)
I have the Autometer Cobalt boost guage and Fuel pressure guauges in pillar pod. Fuel pressure guage lights up fine. My boost guage lights up for only 5 secs, then goes dark. Is there a reason it would be wired into a temporary power source, like int lights or something. How should it be wired? Can I just patch the power wire into the Fuel guage power wire? Thanks for the help.
Stupid question, but is the car running when the above problem occurs, or is the key only in the “on” position? The reason I ask is that your boost gauge may be tapped into the fuel pump power supply line.
Autometer boost gauges (and others) perform a calibration step when power is first applied to the gauge. For Autometer boost gauges, as soon as power is applied the gauge sweeps completely to the left, and then to the zero position. Once in the zero position, calibration is complete and the engine can be cranked/started.
A key point to this calibration is that once calibrated, power must remain at the gauge. This includes during subsequent cranking of the engine.
The keyed “accessory” power connection at the fuse box goes dead during cranking, so it is not useful for electronics that require power during cranking. One “keyed” connection that does retain power during cranking is the fuel pump power. When the key is initially placed in the “on” or "start" position, fuel pump power will be active. If the engine is not started within 5 seconds (give or take), fuel pump power is removed (safety related).
It does not matter. When I insert the key, everything turns on, incl boost meter. But then it goes out after ~5 secs. It does not matter if I start it up withing 5 secs or I buckle and then start it. Does that help?
So other than when power is initially applied to the boost gauge, it doesn't work at all (i.e., no needle movement while the engine is running)?
If that's the case, then you you have a power problem or a gauge problem. Try jumpering the fuel gauge power to the boost gauge power as suggested above. If the gauge still acts the same way, there is an issue with the gauge. If it acts properly, then you can leave it that way (knowing that there may be calibration issues), or find a power source that remains active during cranking.