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With the right nozzle placement (its trial and error, based on how much spray is hitting the MAF wires), the MAF will make the PCM richen things up. You will need to do something else for timing though (I am using EFI Live COS5).
I am going to be spraying the dry first, probably at 2800 or so to start with, then have the wet kick in 3500 or so. I will post my results when I get them hopefully end of this month, after my H/C makeover.
My logic for dry first is the wet backfire issue, although I have never seen a wet backfire, and people are spraying wet kits off the line successfully, all the kit instruction sets say 3000 rpm and higher. I feel safer with the dry first (no fuel in the intake), and the higher rpm with the wet (above the mininum recommended) makes me feel a bit safer.
I have always used a dry shot on the car and it worked great..I now have both on the car and switch from one to another..I wanna use them both now..I may start witha 200 and go from there..
Spraying the MAF will determine fuel required for the engine. In order to reduce timing you need to go have it tuned. A good tuner will adjust the timing tables so that when the car is spraying and using the high end of the MAF/timing table it will pull timing. This will leave the low end of the table perfect for optimal NA timing.
robert56 was telling me a few days ago about hitting my dry first.
I am solely relying on the computer for timing and fuel adjustments.
I am out to beat you mitymikec for fastest stock motor ( i have a 345 hp ls1 c5 no,t ls6 ). I've been 10.7's on my 225 shot ( wet 125/ 100 dry sec. stage ) and now going 175 + wet/ 100 dry. Hoping for 10.20 - 9.9pass !!!
robert56 was telling me a few days ago about hitting my dry first.
I am solely relying on the computer for timing and fuel adjustments.
I am out to beat you mitymikec for fastest stock motor ( i have a 345 hp ls1 c5 no,t ls6 ). I've been 10.7's on my 225 shot ( wet 125/ 100 dry sec. stage ) and now going 175 + wet/ 100 dry. Hoping for 10.20 - 9.9pass !!!
You are so lucky I sold that stock LS6 motor..lol..If i didn't i would be racing u to see who would hit the 9s in stock trim..Keep us posted on how u run..
Spraying the MAF will determine fuel required for the engine. In order to reduce timing you need to go have it tuned. A good tuner will adjust the timing tables so that when the car is spraying and using the high end of the MAF/timing table it will pull timing. This will leave the low end of the table perfect for optimal NA timing.
If you guys have a tuner program, in my personal web site in the links section is a write up on how to do exactly what Sigforty described. many self tuners have used this method to great success.
Nozzle loction is ket to a good a/f ratio. Close to maf wire is best, as you can fine tune your nozzles from there (dual nozzles give the best tuning options). If ya have EFI Live Cos 5, like Beer uses, then optimum nozzle placement isn't as critical as the fuel table for nitrous wil add the fuel needed while spraying. tell me what CAI you are using and I may have a mapped out known good a/f ratio spot, as most have been figured out.
Also, a new dry product is coming that will make all the a/f tuning used currently, void. You'll be able to dial in the fuel much easier, with out a tuner program or optimum nozzle location. Other than that, i have to keep my trap shut.
Robert
If you guys have a tuner program, in my personal web site in the links section is a write up on how to do exactly what Sigforty described. many self tuners have used this method to great success.
Nozzle loction is ket to a good a/f ratio. Close to maf wire is best, as you can fine tune your nozzles from there (dual nozzles give the best tuning options). If ya have EFI Live Cos 5, like Beer uses, then optimum nozzle placement isn't as critical as the fuel table for nitrous wil add the fuel needed while spraying. tell me what CAI you are using and I may have a mapped out known good a/f ratio spot, as most have been figured out.
Also, a new dry product is coming that will make all the a/f tuning used currently, void. You'll be able to dial in the fuel much easier, with out a tuner program or optimum nozzle location. Other than that, i have to keep my trap shut.
Robert
where would be a good location for a dry shot on a vararam B2?
Most people have them ( dual nozzles ) off to each side of the upper box.
I have my NOS dual nozzles hidden coming up from under my Vararam.
i got a single nozzle. and i'd like to hide it. you and i have talked about bottle placement before lol. do you have the line going through the radiator shroud before it gets the the vararam, to keep it strait?
for what its worth ...wet i herd has more tq...racing is in the short and 1/8 so ...take out the timing in the tune...safety...place the duel nozzle close to the maf...bring that vette to TMP & GETTER DONE !!!!
If you guys have a tuner program, in my personal web site in the links section is a write up on how to do exactly what Sigforty described. many self tuners have used this method to great success.
Nozzle loction is ket to a good a/f ratio. Close to maf wire is best, as you can fine tune your nozzles from there (dual nozzles give the best tuning options). If ya have EFI Live Cos 5, like Beer uses, then optimum nozzle placement isn't as critical as the fuel table for nitrous wil add the fuel needed while spraying. tell me what CAI you are using and I may have a mapped out known good a/f ratio spot, as most have been figured out.
Also, a new dry product is coming that will make all the a/f tuning used currently, void. You'll be able to dial in the fuel much easier, with out a tuner program or optimum nozzle location. Other than that, i have to keep my trap shut.
Robert
Robert56,
Dumb question, As supporting vendor, how do I contact you or your shop?
for what its worth ...wet i herd has more tq...racing is in the short and 1/8 so ...take out the timing in the tune...safety...place the duel nozzle close to the maf...bring that vette to TMP & GETTER DONE !!!!
Wet or dry, a 150rwhp is a 150rwhp with same basic torque, given same a/f and timing settings. I made over 300lb's per ft of torque with a dry 170rwhp shot, as good or better than any wet hit, and much safer to boot. Actually, the dry may produce more tq, if one really does. It's really an old wive's tale that wet has more torque, just not true. i can tell ya where this started if ya want to know.
Robert
Honestly, you are best to keep it simple and spray the ring out of the bucket... ET is made up in the 1st 100ft of the 1/4... if the ring ain't enough, move up to a direct port... TNT ring is safe and effective to 250HP. 300HP and up go DP... make sure you pull timing, run the right plugs and have a window switch, the low side RPM number is not so important with an A4...
Originally Posted by mitymikec
Can someone tell me if spraying a dry shot before the MAF would make the PCM pull the right amount of timing and richen things up?
I wanna spray a 150 shot with 26 degrees of timing..What do u guys running dry shots say?
Another thing..I wanna spray 150 shot wet and a 150 shot dry once rolling..Do u guys think i should spray the wet or dry shot first?
I wanna hear from guys that have 2 stages not guessing please..