Title says it all.

Thanks,
The Big Dog

 

These are some of the best - for use with or without our Vacuum Pump Kit

1) Fully separates the oil from the air stream allowing for a clean charge to enter the intake tract, devoid of contaminants
2) Evaporate all exhaust and internal pressure, with separate drains and filter media
3) Have sufficient filter media and CFM to guarantee working effectively with even the most demanding F/I motor setups
4) Have universal, fast release mounting bracket
5) All billet construction - great show pieces

$299

Oil Separator/Evap Cannister with .750 Dia. Ends


Oil Separator/Evap Cannister with -12 AN Fittings


Installed


Installation Diagram

 

I saw one installed on a 427 motor at A&A Corvettes. If they work anywhere near as good as they look .

 

I have the Elite Engineering one and love it. I especially like it because the top stays fixed (mounted to the support bracket) and you can unscrew the bottom with your hands to empty it. It's convenient and it looks good. Price is $145 shipped.

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/Catch_Can.html

 

Best catch can is one that is hooked up to a VACUUM pump

Buy a pump and a cheapo can...this works and adds hp

 

Cheapo can name? How does the pump work? How does it make HP?

Thanks,
The Big Dog

 

My catch can cost me under $30 . It has a sight tube so you can see how much oil is in it. It's a nice polishe aluminum piece that can be adapted to an LS application easily.

I actually just looked and can't find it among the rest of my parts...but that will change in the next day or so, in that I am getting ready to wrap up my project.

The MOST that you can hope for with catchcan alone is ZERO pressure in crankcase.

A vacuum pump can create up to 20 inches of vacuum for a dry sump application or can be set lower for our traditional wet sump engines.

Many claim between 5 and 50 hp gain from vacuum pump alone...I will venture a guess that on a stock cube LS engine, between 5 and 20 hp.

Vacuum in the crankcase can help seal rings and more.

I am currently looking at 1 mechanical and 2 electric pumps and will post results on this forum as they are tested.

So, tradition says BUY a NICE catchcan, but IMO I wouldn't pull the trigger just yet.

 

I looked at your vacuum pump...nice product...any testing results on ls engines?

How about price?

 

Here is my first attempt at video publishing. File is about 4 Meg.

I use a Mike Norris catch can with a Krank Vent in line with it. I get incredible vacuum at idle...

 

What do you get at 5 or 10 psi?

 

Probably blowby... why I have the fitting I was plugging up with my thumb tied to a Moroso vent can here



I know a vacuum pump would do wonders under boost but my setup works very well at least up to 9psi. I'll push it when I get my LS6 forged shortblock together

Bill

 

Not being critical, your setup looks as good or better than most.

I just wonder why I haven't seen any vacuum pump setups...either they are rare or I'm out to lunch and just can't seem to find any.

 

RJW,
I think its a learning curve and also budgeting for the "ancillaries". Some buy a forced induction kit thinking their done... and then balk at the "extras" needed to make it work reliably for long periods of time.

Here is my catch can... when I had the Maggie installed... only changes were made when I installed the turbo was the addition of the LS6 valley cover... of which I now have tied into the catchcan.



Bill

 

I guess so

But many jump on $300 catch cans and $100 breathers, etc. My current yet to be installed vacuum pump system was very pricey, but some of the electric units are not.....

Time for some changes in the FI world, I think...

 

I'm VERY intrigued Horsepower Gains AND Increased Reliability. Let's see some pictures of vacuum pump/catch can setups

 

Lingenfelter has a nice setup.

 

No doubt... but "changes" at this stage of the game... require innovative ideas... ideas that some may want to make some money on... something I completely support. I also support ideas that are openly shared from guys like you and I. I'd love to make money at truely innovative solutions... but I have a day job and bills relying on it... making money in this industry is an ART and I commend the guys that support this forum and sell their wares yet still "putting food on the table"

Bill

 

I didn't mean what I said as a diss towards any of our vendors. probably in MOST if not all cases, a catch can is fine or maybe even just a breather or two.

However, it just seems that things are getting more fancy and expensive and seem to be bordering on vacuum pump pricing. So at that point, a cheap catch can along with a vacuum pump would be cost effective, if it does a better job and especially if a bit more hp can be squeezed by using one...at least for those who may need or not mind an extra 10 or 20 plus the obvious benefits over a catch can or breathers alone.

My current setup is by no means cost effective and I don't think that I'll need the extra few hp, but I made the move, bought the parts and kind of have to see it through.

When the smoke clears, and if I get some decent repeatable results , power wise, then maybe others would consider a similar (more reasonably priced) solution, eespecialy if it is within say $100 total cost of buying a super fancy catch can setup.

I am totally in experimental mode, and i hope that others can take advantage of anything that I come up with that actually works!

 

Let me set the record straight. I am not trying to rip anyone off by over pricing my products.

1) my $300 "catch can" is not a 300 "catch can" it is a REAL oil separator/evac/evap solution that is designed to handle the CFM moved through a crankcase utilizing either a vacuum pump at ~22"-25" hg or the blow by/pressure of a F/I engine.

1a) My solution is in the tradition of the all billet, bling work - and therefore adds dollars.

2) Smaller, less costly oil catch cans are fine and when used with the proper check valves and will also work well - but only within the limits of their capacity.

3) Open vents and breathers are a viable solution to ineffective and undersized separators. They are messy and without check valving preclude the use of a vacuum pump or other methods of maintaining vacuum assisted ring seal / crankcase seal.

4) Electric vacuum pump solutions, at least those that are intended to replace a properly sized mechanical pump will require a 55 -60 amp circuit or a 24 volt buck booster and 30 amp circuit.

Sorry for being long winded.

Vacuum Pumps
BTW, Here is a vacuum pump mounted to an LS1 - It is not a low cost solution and won't work in this location with a centrifugal.

As with all my products, these units have been rigorously and thoroughly tested on the track, street and dynomometers to provide improved performance or your money refunded.

Additionally, these pumps easily provide ~22"-25" hg in race trim and 8"-12" in street trim.

Trim is fully adjustable from 5"- 25" hg.

Cost for complete system, less oil separator is $950.

Mounted..


Kit....

 

Please keep us updated. I am sure if you can get something that work good under $100, a lot of us will be purchasing it. Hope it does happen.