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3:42 auto going 70mph and giving it the gas ..... No down shift and a strong vibration as I am building power. I am guessing the drive tube ... Anyone else have a suggestion.
3:42 auto going 70mph and giving it the gas ..... No down shift and a strong vibration as I am building power. I am guessing the drive tube ... Anyone else have a suggestion.
thanks in advance
Me
Not a lot info to go on. Is the vibration speed related or RPM related ?
Things to check, make sure your wheel lugs are torqued to 100 FT Lbs, shake wheels on lift to check wheel bearings, check suspension bolts.
Other possible causes are bad alignment or torque tube bushings going out.
1500 bucks later and it's worse. Brand new drive shaft with bushings including a new metal bushing from LG. The problem is worse.
Anyone need a brand new bushing ? I have a spare
The worst vibration is when at highway speed and I give it power. Not enough power to down shift and the vibration gets progressivly worse as I build power and speed. I even feel it when I nail it in third and it down shifts to 2nd. I just don't know what to check for. I am checking the wheel lug torque and bearings first thing in the morning. I hope it is not the brand new torque conv or tranny from RPM.
1500 bucks later and it's worse. Brand new drive shaft with bushings including a new metal bushing from LG. The problem is worse.
Anyone need a brand new bushing ? I have a spare
The worst vibration is when at highway speed and I give it power. Not enough power to down shift and the vibration gets progressivly worse as I build power and speed. I even feel it when I nail it in third and it down shifts to 2nd. I just don't know what to check for. I am checking the wheel lug torque and bearings first thing in the morning. I hope it is not the brand new torque conv or tranny from RPM.
any suggestions would be appreciated
Thanks in advance
I had Huge vibrations back in the day.. it turned out to be the clutch needed to be 0 balanced.
1500 bucks later and it's worse. Brand new drive shaft with bushings including a new metal bushing from LG. The problem is worse.
Anyone need a brand new bushing ? I have a spare
The worst vibration is when at highway speed and I give it power. Not enough power to down shift and the vibration gets progressivly worse as I build power and speed. I even feel it when I nail it in third and it down shifts to 2nd. I just don't know what to check for. I am checking the wheel lug torque and bearings first thing in the morning. I hope it is not the brand new torque conv or tranny from RPM.
any suggestions would be appreciated
Thanks in advance
Is it speed related or RPM related ? If you put car in neutral and rev motor do you get vibration ?
You need to figure out if it is a rotational issue with drive train or something else.
If you going down highway and you put it in neutral do get any vibration ?
Post back up with more info.
Also have you checked the torque on you lug nuts and all of your suspension components ?
I was in the same boat awhile back. (Vibration After NEW TRANS & STALL) I was told by RPM it was either the stall or driveshaft bushings. I flipped a coin and got a new driveshaft made by ECS. (with u joints) That did the trick
Looking back - I feel the bad drive shaft bushings caused my stall to fail, which also took out the trans? Problem was I bolted a new trans to a bad stall before I realized the stall was bad. Had RPM refresh the new trans & bought a new stall. Thats when I discovered that the driveshaft was bad.
I would have your stall checked now
Those bushings weren't my problem either, I pulled the TT and they were in perfect shape. My problem as it turns out was either too much play in my tie-rod ends or the lower PS balljoint. I put it back together with all new parts and got an alignment. WOW, what a difference that made to the car!
turns out my TOE was off by a whole degree. The car was fighting it self down the road, not to mention the track. Before the alignment when I would spin the tires it would go sideways and I had to lift. Now when the tires spin it stays perfectly straight.
When you pulled your trans if you disconnected the balljoints or tierods you might want to check that out. Could be the best $99 you spend.
The neat thing about our cars is.... the torque tube spins all the time when the clutch is out. SO you can actually test your tube for vibration while sitting still. Know what I mean?
A Tech II scanner can be your best friend. I would moniter TCC slip and misfire data. I would have it looked at by someone who can properly diagnosis the problem before damage is done. Do you have an engine miss,converter shutter,vibration,etc...? By the description I would rule out converter shutter because when you "kick it down" the converter clutch unlocks and yet you say the "vibration" is still present. I would also rule out a transmission issue because if you were slipping a clutch it would have already failed. The best dianosis I have is an engine mis that you only feel while under load. Get a scanner first then if you come up empty handed look at the drive axles. I hope this helps.
A Tech II scanner can be your best friend. I would moniter TCC slip and misfire data. I would have it looked at by someone who can properly diagnosis the problem before damage is done. Do you have an engine miss,converter shutter,vibration,etc...? By the description I would rule out converter shutter because when you "kick it down" the converter clutch unlocks and yet you say the "vibration" is still present. I would also rule out a transmission issue because if you were slipping a clutch it would have already failed. The best dianosis I have is an engine mis that you only feel while under load. Get a scanner first then if you come up empty handed look at the drive axles. I hope this helps.
Never thought of looking at that .... Chuck with HPE Tuned the car. This is the first time that something like this has come up. I will check it out
Never thought of looking at that .... Chuck with HPE Tuned the car. This is the first time that something like this has come up. I will check it out
Thanks in advance
Tune No misses, injector, or timing issues.
Ran the car on the rack up to 80mph. Only a small tire/wheel vibration. This is not it. On the way home .... stall locked-up at 50mph and I gave it the gas .... The vibration will shake you to death. It has to be the drive tube. This is a brand new OEM shaft with the LG metal coupler on the rear.
Is anyone running an aftermarket shaft and how is it performing?
Ran the car on the rack up to 80mph. Only a small tire/wheel vibration. This is not it. On the way home .... stall locked-up at 50mph and I gave it the gas .... The vibration will shake you to death. It has to be the drive tube. This is a brand new OEM shaft with the LG metal coupler on the rear.
Is anyone running an aftermarket shaft and how is it performing?
thanks in advance
I have aluminum and rubber couplings in my torque tube. Did you mark the tube prior to disassembly to put in bushing ?
Also did you use blue loctite and retorque to 55ft lbs. I have had no problems with mine.
You could take to shop and have run-out and balance checked.