This is an ongoing issue with 2 thing:

Occasionally when I accelerate normally after setting at a long red light, I would get a slight hesitation. I found it to be a rich spike right as RPMs started raise. My wide band would hit 10 to 1 for about ½ a second.

My second issue is the car would hang at about 400 or so RPM for a second or more prior to hitting normal idle. Sometimes it dies and will take a few times to start. This happens if the car sets for about 30 minutes after a good drive. Not every time though.

With my ECS Alky control kit (dual nozzle) line disconnected, all of these issues go away. The kit started with check valves just prior to the nozzles. I removed them and added a larger check valve that attached to the filter (received from Julio). Issue was still there. I am now trying with the ones just prior to the nozzles back in and the new larger one in also.

I have talked to ECS and Alky control….

Anyone else have any suggestions?

Nothing worse than starting you high $$ car in a crowded parking lot and having it start like a junker.

 

It does not sound likely, but maybe check all your connections to make sure you are not getting unmetered air via a loose connection b4 the MAF. Also if you get a chance log your car at idle and let us know what your LTRIMs are showing currently. I personally would like to know what it is saying when it is idling at 400rpm.

 

I'm sure my conections are air tight.

One of my old scans show LTFT -1.6 on both sides on one bad start. Another has them at 0.8 an 0.0.

 

Maybe switch to a check valve with higher cracking pressure? This will require pump to run and force check valve open at x pressure in psi.


Mike

 

I thought of that, I've been unable to find one. Most of the check valves I've found are designed to open easy so they do not restrict flow.

Any one know of a place that sells them

 

Mine was reading -8 last night, but this morning I found the air bridge to MAF connection loose.

 

Sounds like some meth is gettin into the motor.Check the wireing something might be loose and its actvating the pump.Look to see were the controler is mounted if somehow the test button is being pressed from vibration that would do it also.

 

I have been watching the LED to see if it is actuating during the times I have the problem. The test button is clear of anything hitting it.

The light lights for just a moment as I start the car and when I shut it off. A friend of mine's does the same thing. My understanding is that the LED only lights when there is power at the pump. Could the pump actuate without the LED coming on?

I'm thinking about rewiring the whole thing next.

 

Hmmm thats intersting, mine has the same hot start issue that started around the same time I went over the top of the rad. with the blower intake.
The other thing is yesterday I got a washer fluid low warning and it was. The funny thing is I haven't been in boost enough to use the alky system that much.

 

I was starting to think I was the only one with any issues.

 

Given the situations you describe, these sound like heat soak issues. I can't suggest what to do about it, other than to look at the system with that thought in your mind and see what might be vulnerable.

 

sounds like a similar problem I am having.After it shutting off sometimes 3-4 times, I hold the gas and brake to get it going,after it runs for a few minutes down the road it will most likely clear up. Even though, it still shuts off at the stop light.every so often

 

I put a check valuve on my single nozzle setup after American HP was having the same issue 2 years ago before ECS/Alky Control put them on there setups. The one I use has worked great and it takes between 3-4 lbs of boost before it allows meth into my intake and no issues. Tomorrow when I get in the office I will look for the receipt of where I found this item as I went out in the garage and it is not stamped

 

I have thought about this also. Maybe the meth in the supply line gets hotter than during normal driving by setting at a light or after the car is turned off for awhile (heat soak). This could cause the meth to expand/ pressurizing the supply line enough to open the check valve.

A check valve with a spring stronger than the one that comes with the kit could be the answer. I have not been able to find one though.

I will try routing the meth supply line differently. I'll try anything at this point.

 

I hope for my sanity you find the receipt.

 

Mike, if I forget in the morning, please PM as my morning tomorrow is busy I will be on a conference call

 

My only issue is the hot start, oh and I just recently added the check valve to the line that I got from Alky control and it made no change.
Guess I'll take the line off and see if that makes a difference.

 

Mike, I could not find the receipt. It was dark last night and I will look over my check valuve again this evening for markings, I also went through my ebay buys and it was not there.

 

The pump is a diaphragm style so it will not hold the fluid like a check valve, so I cant see the raising temps of heat soak forcing it in. The dip in A/F can be corrected by lowering your "initial" setting in the PAC controller, that often has to be done on a dual nozzle set up.
I would look into things like start up air at the higher temps, how long it holds it etc.

 

By lowering the "initial" setting do you mean to reduce the initial voltage output to the pump? From my instructions, the kit turns on at 4lbs with 2 volts output. You are suggesting to take the output to less than 2 volts? Ijust want to make sure I am understanding you before I start tinkering with things. I never see the LED light up when I start out from a light when the car goes rich. I would therefore think that it might not be an issue with the initial setting.

I will look into the startup air and the time it holds for also.