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What are your thoughts on Chassis Dynos. Not considering financial or operational cost.
Just your thoughts as a consumer.
I see the advantage of safety in NOT having to strap the cars down and particularly in high HP cars not spinning on the rollers.
Thanks
Trying to understand your question.....chassis dyno's normally spin rollers and require strap down. The only dyno I have been on that didn't require a strap down was a dynapack...which hooks up directly to the hubs and uses a hydraulic brake to apply resistance vs. a dynojet which uses inertia.
I have only made slightly more on a dynojet then registered with a dynapack....never had any problems with spinning the tires on a dynojet either. Just got to strap it down good...might help that I have always had 335 wide tires though.
Trying to understand your question.....chassis dyno's normally spin rollers and require strap down. The only dyno I have been on that didn't require a strap down was a dynapack...which hooks up directly to the hubs and uses a hydraulic brake to apply resistance vs. a dynojet which uses inertia.
I have only made slightly more on a dynojet then registered with a dynapack....never had any problems with spinning the tires on a dynojet either. Just got to strap it down good...might help that I have always had 335 wide tires though.
You want to use a load bearing dyno something along the lines of a Mustang dyno.
I have seen Dynojet dyno's take in excess of 2000rwhp. The knurled metal on the dyno drum is actually has right around 2.23 times more grip. So if your gonna spin the tires on a dyno, your gonna spin them on the street.
Originally Posted by gorillavet
I have seen dynojets take up to 1500 rwhp. You may need weight in the back to avoid wheel spin but if strapped down well should not be a real problem.
I have had my car done on both types of dyno's, a dyno jet and Synergy’s dynopack. I feel the Dyno pack is more accurate. I have had low tire pressure that changed my value on a dyno jet and then the next day took it back to the dynopack and values were the same.
You eliminate the tires (Moving mass) it should be more accurate
I was asking about you thoughts on the Dynapack Dynos. These are the ones that you take off you wheels and they bolt up with a hub connector.
It's my understanding that Callaway and some other big name shop use them.
I have had numerous cars over the past years and many of them have been dyno tuned using both Mustang and Dynojet dynos...they are great tools for tuning and optimizing power considering it is a little more challenging to tune a vehicle to 6700 rpms in 4th gear on the street.
Last year was the first time that I had a car tuned using a Dynapack. Like other load dynos where resistance can be added or varied thoughout the entire rpm range to tune. My car made more torque on this dyno (40-50rwtq) then it did on the Dynojet (non eddy current).....but it made a little less hp too (10rwhp). For tuning purposes I am just as impressed at how my car runs (like OEM) out of boost as it does when it is in boost....after being SD tuned using the Dynapack. I am very impressed by it overall as a tuning tool.
On a different thread I saw somebody mention or ask how more tq could be made with the same setup and cubes on one dyno vs another....and somebody responded that it is quite easy. I was able to see this first hand with the Dynapack, as more load was put on the car in the lower rpms and as a result it generated more tq....interesting that the hp was very close considering the tq difference between the two.