Hey guys

I was wondering if the KB can be wired to only activate when the nitrous arming switch is turned on? Is that possible?

 

Anyone? Or can it be set to 0 when im not spraying and then just turn it up when I do spray ?

 

TTT

Chris you may wanna send a PM to KBTECH (Ken).

Good luck

 

Sure. You just need your switch to close the connection between the two wires normally connected to the boost (pressure) switch.

 

 

I may do that if I cant figure it out. Thanks Nouman

So I dont use the vaccume switch that came with my kit? That seems easy enough

 

Yep.

 

I would tie this to a WOT switch as well as the ARM switch.

The ARM switch is really not necessary if you just tied it to a WOT switch.

You can also get a vac switch from KB.

There are 100 ways you can do it. Just try to do it the simplest way possible.

 

The only thing about being wired into the WOT switch is that it kicks in pretty hard when it hits but will it make the hit harder when the BAP activates ? Also, is the racetronix harness the easiest way to do this if I want to me switch activated ?

 

It is going to hit hard no matter what. I don't think that the BAP will make a difference. Another option is to use the vac switch like was suggested or another RPM switch. But I think you would be overcomplicating it.

The racetronix harness is the easiest way to hook in the BAP, but it has nothing to do with kicking it on. There are two other pairs of wires that come out of the BAP box.

1. The pair for the **** - you are going to cut the **** off and just solder these two wires together. This will guarantee you get 17.5 V everytime it activates and will ensure that you don't accidentally turn the **** down when you are done tuning and screw something up.

2. This the pair of wires that goes to the Hobbs switch. You can hook these to any switch. Anything.. WOT switch, Push button, anything. If you use a secondary device, i.e. a Window switch, I would use a relay to actually connect these two. So your WOT or Window switch would activate a relay which would connect these two wires together.

The only thing you DO NOT want to do is leave the BAP running all of the time. It is just not necessary and COULD shorten your pump life. you want it to activate somehow when you stand on the car.

Hope this helps... if not let me know, but you can get a switch from KB for a non-boosted application.

 

^ Thanks Nick. Im just not a fan at all of wiring anything. I hate it.

The only thing I saw that goes to the **** is one black wire that has a plug on it but I may have to look at it again.

I think I do have the N/A version though. Its brand new, never used but I bought it from another forum member and the part number that was on the reciept was the NA version. I hope Im not confusing you

 

Nope you are right.. there is "one black wire" with a plug on it. Cut off the plug and then strip back the black insulation and there are two wires in there. Strip them both and solder them together.

If you send me the number off of the Hobbs switch I can tell you which one you have...And no you are not confusing me at all.

 

^ Ill look at it when I get to work and let you know

 

The number i see is: vp-2c-3j/wL16

 

That means nothing to me.

Not sure from there. Call KB.

 

I emailed you a couple pics Nick. Maybe that will help