Radiator lay down setups...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 901
Likes: 1
From: Oxford PA
Radiator lay down setups...
I`m currently working on my winter mods. And I am looking to lay the radiator down to go over it with the ducting for air intake. I cant find specific information on how much forward on the bottom I have to move the cradle before I reweld the cradle.. Theres one other catch I`m also installing a larger 2 core radiator be-cool. (I ran in the 230* range on my way home from the Jersey shore last year) I dont know how much that is gonna come into play... Any info would be helpful.
Happy New Year..
Happy New Year..
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,037
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From: Kansas City Missouri
St. Jude Donor '09
Mine is moved back about 3 or 4 inches, along with 3/4" spacers to drop the whole support. Then I had to cut and fold down the lip of the top of the radiator to make room for the 4" pipe going into my F1C.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 228
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From: Phoenix AZ
St. Jude Donor '08
If the Be Cool is like the DeWitt, it doesn't take up any more space. It is twice as thick, but fills the entire space between the ends, whereas the stock only fills half the space. When I did my Procharger 7 years ago which required the radiator be layed down I had a bracket welded. Since then there are available brackets which I'd recommend.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Brighton
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Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Brighton
I modified the hole with photoshop but we could put the cutout just about anywhere. You want to go with a rectangle cut because round would eat up too much radiator. We did this a couple times and the guys fabbed up a round-to-rectangle adapter. This may not work with cars with AC because of the condenser in front.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 8,475
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From: Port Arthur, Texas 77642
I modified the hole with photoshop but we could put the cutout just about anywhere. You want to go with a rectangle cut because round would eat up too much radiator. We did this a couple times and the guys fabbed up a round-to-rectangle adapter. This may not work with cars with AC because of the condenser in front.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Brighton
We already have the adpater tabs which leave a small (7/8" gap) on the top. Then we would just disable about four rows, which would give you 1 1/8 + 7/8 = 2" high So a shute 2 x 6" = 12cu in. is equal to a 4" round pipe (Dia squared x .7854) 4 x 4 x .7854 = 12.5
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Port Arthur, Texas 77642
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
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From: Brighton
I don't have any photos but just imagine a 2 x 6 rectangluar slot in the upper right hand corner. We wouldn't charge extra for doing it on new radiators but I can't do it to an existing one.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 901
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From: Oxford PA
Now I have some real serious interest in your posting Mr.Dewitt
Can you get me some pics of this setup....And the price also...Packing the manual trans also no trans cooler needed....
Can you get me some pics of this setup....And the price also...Packing the manual trans also no trans cooler needed....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 8,475
Likes: 332
From: Port Arthur, Texas 77642
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 901
Likes: 1
From: Oxford PA
Would this have any signifigant affect on cooling, its ability to cool? Want to make sure this radiator is gonna preform as a dewitt is expected to....
Last edited by easyvette; Jan 3, 2008 at 09:24 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Brighton
I posted this last night but it never showed up? Must have hit the wrong key....Here is a new concept photo
Why not modifiy an existing one?
Because the two lightlighted rows are welded shut, before the end tank is welded on.
Does it effect the cooling?
Sure, because we eliminated a total of (4) four tubes however the upgrade from stock is still about a 95% improvement over a single row.
All I'm saying is this might be a better solution to laying the radiator down and modifying a whole bunch of stuff.
Why not modifiy an existing one?
Because the two lightlighted rows are welded shut, before the end tank is welded on.
Does it effect the cooling?
Sure, because we eliminated a total of (4) four tubes however the upgrade from stock is still about a 95% improvement over a single row.
All I'm saying is this might be a better solution to laying the radiator down and modifying a whole bunch of stuff.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,615
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From: waterloo ontario
St. Jude Donor '08
Tom, how many inches is removed? I think you may need to take that mount off the whole top of the rad because you also need clearance for the pipe that goes from the intercooler to the TB. I know in Andy's new kits he drops the whole cradle-I think dropping the cradle and making a rad like this would be the ultimate solution. I'm going to pm Andy and ask him if he'll tell us what the size of the spacers he used to drop the rad is.
Guest
Posts: n/a
To the original poster...this is what I did after installing various kits on customers cars...
What I did, to my own car was, cut off the bar, that the radiator supports sit on,...cut off the TWO squares that the radiator sits in place as well. Try to keep them together. Then,.."I" moved mine,(the bar and two squares) 6 inches forward. I then re-welded them in place.
Doing this, allowed me to fit large charge and feed pipes up and over my stock radiator.
I had to mildy, and CAREFULLY bend the condensor hard line just a little, to work with the new tilted setup.
It works great,..you can't see where the old brackets lined up and where cut off...etc.
Again, just cutthe square tube/bar off, with the two square mounting tabs that the radiator sits on,...and move them six inches forward... or right near where the bracket starts to curve up.
Hope this is understandable and helpful.
Peace.
Oh yes...your gonna have to make a custom hose setup for the radiator....cause ifyou re use the stock one,..from the NEW rake on the radiator..it'll cause the hose to kink up..
What I did, to my own car was, cut off the bar, that the radiator supports sit on,...cut off the TWO squares that the radiator sits in place as well. Try to keep them together. Then,.."I" moved mine,(the bar and two squares) 6 inches forward. I then re-welded them in place.
Doing this, allowed me to fit large charge and feed pipes up and over my stock radiator.
I had to mildy, and CAREFULLY bend the condensor hard line just a little, to work with the new tilted setup.
It works great,..you can't see where the old brackets lined up and where cut off...etc.
Again, just cutthe square tube/bar off, with the two square mounting tabs that the radiator sits on,...and move them six inches forward... or right near where the bracket starts to curve up.
Hope this is understandable and helpful.
Peace.
Oh yes...your gonna have to make a custom hose setup for the radiator....cause ifyou re use the stock one,..from the NEW rake on the radiator..it'll cause the hose to kink up..