What oil are you using??
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 2
From: New York NY
What oil are you using??
What kind of oil do you guys run in your forged engines?? (The engine is an MTi 347, with a D1SC FI)
I'm currently running the 15W40 since I'm still under a 1000 miles on the new motor, but I'm getting close to the first oil change.
What do you guys recommend, I've heard so many things from so many reputable places I don't know what to go with
Synthetic?
15W40
10W30
5W30
Thanks for the advice.
Matt
I'm currently running the 15W40 since I'm still under a 1000 miles on the new motor, but I'm getting close to the first oil change.
What do you guys recommend, I've heard so many things from so many reputable places I don't know what to go with
Synthetic?
15W40
10W30
5W30
Thanks for the advice.
Matt
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,922
Likes: 0
oil
I discussed this with my engine builder....My motor is a forged 402 by canadian Performance. Dave wants me running 20w50 Castrol regular oil...but he wants me changing it every month. We are not really letting the oil break down. I noticed how cold it was getting here in Toronto in November, so I put in 10w30...but once the weather gets nice I will be changin back to the thick stuff. I have thought about the synthetic...but I really like super clean oil in my motor. Its very good for the bearings..and by changing the oil very often, we are keeping all the gas and pollutants out of the oil. Hope this helps you. It sure is nice when I change the oil, and its still brown, not black.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,082
Likes: 0
From: eagle mountain utah
YOu might ask the builder how tight he set up clearances in the motor. A thicker oil is good in a "loose" motor, and a thinner oil is better in a tight motor. If your running 15w40 to break it in and your pressure is fine, no reason to change it. But I'd definitely run a full synthetic like Royal Purple and change oil at 3000 mile intervals instead of 6000+ like RP recommends.
BTW, if you run thick oil, it creates more internal static drag than a thinner oil will. But a thin oil may not give good pressure.
BTW, if you run thick oil, it creates more internal static drag than a thinner oil will. But a thin oil may not give good pressure.
Last edited by leojnknsC5; Jan 11, 2008 at 07:14 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 26,794
Likes: 614
From: Elmhurst, IL (West Suburb of Chicago) & Home of MEGA Horsepower
St. Jude Donor '06
What kind of oil do you guys run in your forged engines?? (The engine is an MTi 347, with a D1SC FI)
I'm currently running the 15W40 since I'm still under a 1000 miles on the new motor, but I'm getting close to the first oil change.
What do you guys recommend, I've heard so many things from so many reputable places I don't know what to go with
Synthetic?
15W40
10W30
5W30
Thanks for the advice.
Matt
I'm currently running the 15W40 since I'm still under a 1000 miles on the new motor, but I'm getting close to the first oil change.
What do you guys recommend, I've heard so many things from so many reputable places I don't know what to go with
Synthetic?
15W40
10W30
5W30
Thanks for the advice.
MattIf i were you I would change the DINO oil ASAP as most change their oil on a brand new motor within 500 miles. My brand new Erik Koenig 347 Motor just had its first 50 miles put on today and per my engine builder the oil and filter wil be chaned now and then again after another 500 miles.
I have decide to play things safe and run non snthetic oil for the first couple of thousand miles (about 3000) and then will switch to fully synthetic like Mobil One.
Until then it will be a 5/30 or 10/30 (in the summer) Castrol, Valvoline (non synthetic) as I want to minimize any chance of oil consumption.
After next oil change after another 500 miles,will probably change every 1500 miles (2 times) and go to a full synthetic!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,082
Likes: 0
From: eagle mountain utah
Right. You wont get good break-in results with a full synthetic. However, after break in, a synthetic beats a conventional hands down because it handles heat so much better. Thats why the C5's fans come on at 230* in a stock LS1 and it comes with synth.
If you run a conventional oil at engine temps above 212*, it's life is drastically shortened. REmember, if the engine is at 212, the oil temp can be considerably higher.
If you run a conventional oil at engine temps above 212*, it's life is drastically shortened. REmember, if the engine is at 212, the oil temp can be considerably higher.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,197
Likes: 2
From: Niagara Falls NY
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Right. You wont get good break-in results with a full synthetic. However, after break in, a synthetic beats a conventional hands down because it handles heat so much better. Thats why the C5's fans come on at 230* in a stock LS1 and it comes with synth.
If you run a conventional oil at engine temps above 212*, it's life is drastically shortened. REmember, if the engine is at 212, the oil temp can be considerably higher.
If you run a conventional oil at engine temps above 212*, it's life is drastically shortened. REmember, if the engine is at 212, the oil temp can be considerably higher.
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Michael S. Palmer
Life Time NCM #2196
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 82,599
Likes: 1,717
From: Converse TX
I used dyno oil the first 1,000 miles, changed first time after 30 minutes and then at 300 miles and again at 1k. This in my little ole 346/7 and then onto RP 10/30 and I change at 2k or sooner, why oil changes are cheaper than my engine. What I have found is when in boost I use oil and when I cruise on the hwy no oil use. With 10k on the motor and a oil change last night all seems fine and more boost on the way home last night, yea I live 25 miles away from my wrencher. I can not say the RP is better or worse than any other syn oil, but my mechanic uses it and I follow suit 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,082
Likes: 0
From: eagle mountain utah
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,686
Likes: 20
From: Florida, Hell's Doorstep
YOu might ask the builder how tight he set up clearances in the motor. A thicker oil is good in a "loose" motor, and a thinner oil is better in a tight motor. If your running 15w40 to break it in and your pressure is fine, no reason to change it. But I'd definitely run a full synthetic like Royal Purple and change oil at 3000 mile intervals instead of 6000+ like RP recommends.
BTW, if you run thick oil, it creates more internal static drag than a thinner oil will. But a thin oil may not give good pressure.
BTW, if you run thick oil, it creates more internal static drag than a thinner oil will. But a thin oil may not give good pressure.
Check this link and make up your own mind-pay close attention to the pressure resistance
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,082
Likes: 0
From: eagle mountain utah
Check this link and make up your own mind-pay close attention to the pressure resistance http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,197
Likes: 2
From: Niagara Falls NY
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
That's news to me.I've taken the plant tour 6 times.I wonder how they would put any kind of mileage on the dyno?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 8,145
Likes: 1
From: Bradenton FLORIDA
We break in all motors we build w/shell rotella for 500 miles & then it's M1 or any good syn EXCEPT RP. RP is the only oil we have seen bearing failures with. RP makes great gear lube & other products but the thin super sheeting film may net a few extra HP, but at the sacrifice of the engine internals (on race motors....may be fine in street motors). We use 10-30 in street built motors where our bearing tolerances are set at 2 1/2 thou....but our race motors are around 3 so we run 15-50 M1 or equivelant.