When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So after spending countless time and money fiberglassing a 3 gauge pillar into the stock pillar to look stock and having it wrapped in the same material as stock it ended up looking crappy due to the seems they had to sew in it. I couldnt stand having an abs overlay that looked to cheap to me. So I saw a couple guys had made these and though id give it a try. Turned out pretty good and I was able to keep the spring so the door will open and close itself. And the door still shuts completely. Im gonna put 2 rocker swithces on the right which is the reason for the gap. Let me know what you think.
I was thinking the same thing. I still have some of the leather from the pillar that I was thinking about wrapping it with. The aluminum look has just kinda grown on me.
Similar to mine as well...I did a texture flat black paint to match interior though...Add a micro switch to the door so the gauges aren't on when the door is closed or you'll see the light around the edges and they only light up when the door opens and connects with the switch.
Looks great
Did you wire your gauge light into a keyed ingnition source. I would like to do mine with the interior lights so I can fade it with the rest of them, But I checked every damn fuse and apparently the source isnt stepped down until it gets to the rheostat because all the fuses were of equal voltage. Maybe I can splice into the rheostat deal and use that as a source. Also how did you screw the center console down after losing both screws that are under the plate? Did you just use the other screws only? Pretty nifty leaving the cigarete lighter didnt even think of that.
I always liked the hideaway look... but having to look down to monitor the gauges becomes difficult. Are the gauges useless at this point?
I agree. Those gauges are an awful long ways from the view out the front. The ashtray area is great for mounting things that don't need to be monitored frequently, like nitrous bottle pressure.
I wonder if gauges could be set up to reflect in a heads-up windshield? They'd be backwards, but still.........
I agree. Those gauges are an awful long ways from the view out the front. The ashtray area is great for mounting things that don't need to be monitored frequently
I mounted the A/F wideband and IAT gauges in the vent so if the red LEDs light up (I have FJO gauges that have perimeter green to red LEDs) I see them without having to look down. Damage can happen in a split second and if your concentrating on the road ahead you will not see quick gauge changes in the ashtray. I have the fuel pressure, shift light and boost gauges in a pillar mount.....all in the line of sight.....plenty of air flows around the gauges when the a/c is on.
Here are a couple I have done. The material is Rowmark laserable Laminate 1/8" Thick Textured. It files and cuts easy with a bandsaw, of course it laser engraves even better
Here is one with a Nitrous gauge (that guage can be Fuel Pressure, AFR or Nitrous Pressure; Dynotune has these)
Here is mine (I chose to keep the gauges in the pillar)
You guys are killing yourselves with seperate fuel/boost gauges.
Buy the SAP Dual boost/fuel pressure digital gauge with many many extras for $299 shipped.
I had one then sold it-but I'll be going back to one again-way too hard to moniter it going down the track-after a pull just hit the peak and your done!