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FPR and BOV

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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 04:02 PM
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Default FPR and BOV

My car seems to be running pretty rich sice I installed the h/c/i+Procharger and realted mods. I have been racking my brain trying to figure out whwat i may have done wrong to cause it to run rich and I just remembered blowing through the vaccum port on the BOV and it seemed to flow through freely.

1. Is that normal?
2. I have the BOV tee'd to my FPR. If there is a vaccum leak there, will it cause the car to run rich?
3. Should I put the BOV hose to another source?

thanks....again
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 06:02 PM
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a boost leak test will tell you a lot!
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 06:04 PM
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If I'm decoding this right the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) is hooked to the BOV (Blow off valve)? I believe that the BOV should be hooked to a vacuum source not a fuel source. Unless the FRP is boost referenced. Maybe some one else can chime in on this, but I believe most people hook up the BOV to the intake manifold or brake booster vacuum.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by AlwaysInBoost
a boost leak test will tell you a lot!

Originally Posted by akaspeedaddict
If I'm decoding this right the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) is hooked to the BOV (Blow off valve)? I believe that the BOV should be hooked to a vacuum source not a fuel source. Unless the FRP is boost referenced. Maybe some one else can chime in on this, but I believe most people hook up the BOV to the intake manifold or brake booster vacuum.
I have the vaccum nipple on the BOV tee'd into the vaccum hose that goes to the FPR. It's not connected to the fuel side of the FPR

I guess what I am asking is how the FPR works. If it has a vaccum leak, would it cause the engine to run higher fuelpressure, lower fuel pressure or neither?

Last edited by AMRAAM; Apr 29, 2008 at 07:02 PM.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 07:23 PM
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Its better to use a dedicated vacuum/boost line to each item where possible.

A leak in the BOV signal line, could cause it to open when it shouldnt. Which if the BOV is placed after the MAF, then the MAF will think there is a lot more air going thru the engine, than there actually is. Which could cause it to go rich.

On the other hand, that same leak applied to the FPR signal line, would mean FP wont rise in accordance with boost, so could potentially cause a lean condition...


Fix the leaks.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 08:46 PM
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what makes you think the car is running rich? do you have a wideband?
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 11:05 PM
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I do have a wideband. it bounces around quite a bit from 12-16. It just smells really rich.
Here's a quick vid of the wideband
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 07:53 AM
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are your fuel trims in check?
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by AlwaysInBoost
are your fuel trims in check?
I don't have any way of logging yet, so i don't know.

I think this quote tells me what I need to know. this is how I assumed things worked, but wasn't sure.
Inside the FPR is a diaphragm with a valve. At idle when engine vacuum is high, it opens the valve lowering fuel pressure. At higher RPM's when engine vacuum is low, the valve closes increasing fuel pressure.
If there is a vaccum leak, or the hose isn't connected, it would be the same as having a low vaccum signal so the fuel pressure would be higher, thus running a bit rich.

I should be able to get it hooked up correctly tonight.

What is the best way to do a pressure check? I have a plate that goes into my intake piping for my 3000gt to presusre check, but I'm not sure if it will fit in the C5 piping.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 08:54 AM
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I think a boost leak test would be your best bet. you could have your BOV adjusted wrong allowing too much/too little air in...

if you ahve a vac leak you should be sucking in additional air which would give you a lean condition @ idle... nothing to worry about really since there is no load on the motor.

I would check and see what your LTFT & STFT's are before you go crazy.

Also, maybe try disconnecting your battery for a few minutes with the KEY held in the ON position to discharge any capacitors there might be in the ECU. let the car re-learn its fuel trims again.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 08:56 AM
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doing a boost leak test would be the same on the 3S as the vette except you only need to hookup a tester to ONE compressor inlet.

I'm going to be doing a how-to in the next couple of weeks because I've gotten so many questions about the process.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by AlwaysInBoost
I think a boost leak test would be your best bet. you could have your BOV adjusted wrong allowing too much/too little air in...

if you ahve a vac leak you should be sucking in additional air which would give you a lean condition @ idle... nothing to worry about really since there is no load on the motor.

I would check and see what your LTFT & STFT's are before you go crazy.

Also, maybe try disconnecting your battery for a few minutes with the KEY held in the ON position to discharge any capacitors there might be in the ECU. let the car re-learn its fuel trims again.
Originally Posted by AlwaysInBoost
doing a boost leak test would be the same on the 3S as the vette except you only need to hookup a tester to ONE compressor inlet.

I'm going to be doing a how-to in the next couple of weeks because I've gotten so many questions about the process.
My 3S plate goes into the y-pipe where the MAF goes, so I only use one inlet for it. The battery had been disconnected for several weeks so I am pretty sure the ECU has been discharged. Hopefully I'll get everything hooked up tonight and let it run for a while and we'll see what happens.

There's a possibility that the BOV may not be set correctly, too.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 10:22 AM
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yes, thats why a leak test would tell you a lot, good luck!
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 12:56 PM
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In case anyone was wondering, the green gauge is a SPA dual available through me. PM me for more details.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 10:45 PM
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Tried a boost leak test, sort of. I don't have a compressor at my garage, so i used a bike pump. I didn't get the pressure very high at all, but I could get enough that it was coming out of the oil fill. i pulled off the catch can hose and plugged it(even though it has a check valve) and it didn't help. I know that could be an indication of rings, but I don't think that is an issue. Is there anything that I should have disconnected or plugged?

I also ran it for a few minutes. The ful pressure seems to be be around 48 to 51. i have a video of it that I'll post tomorrow sometime.
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Old May 1, 2008 | 07:59 AM
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its difficult to do w/o an air compressor. Back in the day when I didn't have one I used to drive to a close by gas station and use the air hose they had out for tires.

you shouldn't have to disconnect anything except for the intake pipe on the blower inlet. Everything else should stay in place, same as your 3S. Until you can use an air compressor and build 10-15psi MAX of pressure in the system I wouldn't worry about the air coming out of the breather.
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Old May 1, 2008 | 10:12 AM
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At the moment, I'm not sure I could get it to a gas station to use their hose. Besides, nowadays it cost $.75 for air Apparently the gas stations aren't making enough money on the >3.60/gal of gas.

I knew I would need more pressure, but that was all I had at the time and I thought it would give me some idea if there was a major leak somewhere.

I pulled the coupler from the MAF to the throttlebody and put the test plate in the coupler. It actually fit fairly well.
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Old May 1, 2008 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by AMRAAM
At the moment, I'm not sure I could get it to a gas station to use their hose. Besides, nowadays it cost $.75 for air Apparently the gas stations aren't making enough money on the >3.60/gal of gas.

I knew I would need more pressure, but that was all I had at the time and I thought it would give me some idea if there was a major leak somewhere.

I pulled the coupler from the MAF to the throttlebody and put the test plate in the coupler. It actually fit fairly well.

you don't want to disconnect anything except for the inlet on the blower. that would defeat the whole purpose of doing a leak test in the first place.
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Old May 1, 2008 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by AlwaysInBoost
you don't want to disconnect anything except for the inlet on the blower. that would defeat the whole purpose of doing a leak test in the first place.
I don't have everything completely set up yet on the IC and procharger. I was just checking the stuff on the engine after doing heads and cam(vaccum lines, intake..etc)
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