left output shaft
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 879
Likes: 0
From: Waynesville Missouri
left output shaft
Hello fellow DIY corvette guys,I am in need of some assistance. I am in the process of adding some more go fast parts to my 99 vert top mount twin turbo set up and once the engine part is complete and everthing is installed I am going to be installing the left rear output shaft and a DTE BRACE. I am wondering if anyone on here has directions on how to install the left output shaft. It is a m6 transmission. Any assistance would be appreciated pictures prefered!!!!!! Here is pics of my install so far and the before and after. There will be more pics of the parts I am installing and also pics of of other mods that will be installed. My roll bar things like that.
pictures of current engine upgrades:
http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/l...t=d80a0850.pbw
pictures of past mods and my twin turbo setup:
http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/l...t=7d2631fb.pbw
More pics and specs to come. Thanks in advance guys, Jason
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,211
Likes: 982
From: Think BEFORE hitting "Submit Reply"
What I did is this.
Removed the rear carrier(and outer axles) that supports the trans/diff.
Lowered the trans/diff assembly enough to unbolt and pull back the diff from the trans.
(You don't have to actually remove the diff case from the vehicle.)
This creates room to remove the right side cover and pull out the diff center section(posi unit).
Then simply unbolt the posi unit sections from each other, and replace both side axles.
You will need a press to compress the preload washers(springs) to get the right side axle out.
If you have the unit apart, I would replace the right side axle also(I know it's pretty expensive), and at the very least, replace the clutch pack preload washers with the upgraded units from DTE.
The stock preload washers are very weak.
Mine were cracked with only 20k miles on them, and I had not beat on the car at all.
I have a few pics somewhere.
If I can find them , I'll post them up.
Removed the rear carrier(and outer axles) that supports the trans/diff.
Lowered the trans/diff assembly enough to unbolt and pull back the diff from the trans.
(You don't have to actually remove the diff case from the vehicle.)
This creates room to remove the right side cover and pull out the diff center section(posi unit).
Then simply unbolt the posi unit sections from each other, and replace both side axles.
You will need a press to compress the preload washers(springs) to get the right side axle out.
If you have the unit apart, I would replace the right side axle also(I know it's pretty expensive), and at the very least, replace the clutch pack preload washers with the upgraded units from DTE.
The stock preload washers are very weak.
Mine were cracked with only 20k miles on them, and I had not beat on the car at all.
I have a few pics somewhere.
If I can find them , I'll post them up.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,211
Likes: 982
From: Think BEFORE hitting "Submit Reply"
A pic of the case with the posi removed
In this next pic, you can see the inner gear and right side axle held in by the pin.
To remove the pin, place the posi in a press as it looks here, and press down slightly on the gear from the inside, which will release pressure on the pin, allowing it to be slid out.
This will allow the right side axle to be replaced.
A pic of the DTE axle
-also notice the spring washer in the upper left of the pic, and the crack in it-these are only about $50 or so to replace, and worth every penny since they keep pressure on the clutch pack
When torqueing the posi section back together, the bolts should be at 41 lb/ft.
In this next pic, you can see the inner gear and right side axle held in by the pin.
To remove the pin, place the posi in a press as it looks here, and press down slightly on the gear from the inside, which will release pressure on the pin, allowing it to be slid out.
This will allow the right side axle to be replaced.
A pic of the DTE axle
-also notice the spring washer in the upper left of the pic, and the crack in it-these are only about $50 or so to replace, and worth every penny since they keep pressure on the clutch pack
When torqueing the posi section back together, the bolts should be at 41 lb/ft.
Last edited by vrybad; Aug 5, 2008 at 08:40 PM.
