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i was wondering about nitrous seems like good horsepower for price...just wanted to hear some good nitrous dealers and what is better for daily driving car wet or dry nitrous. will i blow engine... not looking to use a 200 shot just like a 75 or 100...and prices for complete setups would be great thank you
I am a big fan of Harris Speed Works. They make great nitrous kits that work well and look good and the service is #1. They make a killer plate system.
As for wet vs dry... that's an ongoing debate. I prefer wet. My tuner prefers a wet kit. He's one of the best in the country, so I probably started liking wet kits because he said to go that way, honestly.
I started with a used LS1 NOS kit 5177 under 500 bux. Dry kit 15lb bottle, plug and play 100hp, with no tuning and it worked great! I skipped all the gizmos to keep the bang for buck. No heater, no window, no opener. It's the refills that start to add up!
A couple years ago it was around $4 a pound. Fill the 15# for about $65. That would last me about 2 weeks of playin around. The race shop had a discount card, buy 10 refills and get one free!
Myself, I like the advanced technology of the Dry kits. though the wet plate kits are not bad either. The dry has a benefit of slightly easier to set-up these days with the Interface, and a much better out of the box a/f than a wet, then they also have the added safety factor. Injecting gasoline into the dry engineered intakes of the front entrance style manifold is a hold over of 40 year old wet carburetor technology. EFI was engineered as an advancement and the dry utilizes this advancement throughly by putting our injectors to work as the fuel adder.
Wet is so much less trouble. With dry you are buying bigger injectors and doing a lot more to the tune. Wet you slap on, yank the timing as needed, check the A:F, and go.
wet is the best and safest way to go,for a good complete kit you will pay 699 and thats for everyting,i have seen alot of TNT kits that work great and are very reliable,but NOS and Harris are good to.
i have a kit for sale that part of it is used the other is new,its a stage II which its ajustable from 100-300hp at the rear tires.
and yes it is best to pull aleast 2 degrees for every 100hp
Wet is so much less trouble. With dry you are buying bigger injectors and doing a lot more to the tune. Wet you slap on, yank the timing as needed, check the A:F, and go.
Did both wet and dry on my car the same day (This was 3 years ago before some of the new electronics). Wet worked right out of the box up to a 150 shot, Dry worked to my satisfaction after the 42's were added (which was month's later), without the larger injectors my 99 would only safely support a 50 shot (AFR/Timing/KR/injector duty cycle monitored, stock injectors were 106% duty cycle and AFR was 13+ on anything above a 50 Dry).
Last edited by Beer99C5@FastbirdPerf.com; Sep 27, 2008 at 11:33 AM.
Wet is so much less trouble. With dry you are buying bigger injectors and doing a lot more to the tune. Wet you slap on, yank the timing as needed, check the A:F, and go.
Not any more my friend. yes injectors will b needed once you max stockers out. however, unless your fav wet kit comes with about 30/40 jets you'll never get the exact a/f ratio you want. it's crap shoot to get exact a/f with lets say the supplied 150 jets, and the numerous threads on guys using the next available N2O or fuel jet from the smaller or larger hit tells this truth out. Where as no with the Interface, you can dial in an exact a/f ratio down a to a single hp and it's repeatable each and every time. Some very innovative dry products out there. then there is the coming DRY MAF kit from NX that dials in a/f with a mech dial. No longer is the dry hard to set and is much easier than a wet kit, an you can have exactly what a/f ratio you want, not just what you end up with like a wet out of the box kit. By the way, how are ya yanking the timing on a wet hit? On a dry hit you can do it various ways that does not effect the n/a tune, you can't do that on a wet hit.
Originally Posted by OO7
wet is the best and safest way to go,for a good complete kit you will pay 699 and thats for everyting,i have seen alot of TNT kits that work great and are very reliable,but NOS and Harris are good to.
i have a kit for sale that part of it is used the other is new,its a stage II which its ajustable from 100-300hp at the rear tires.
and yes it is best to pull aleast 2 degrees for every 100hp
thanks mike
Not knocking TNT as they do have one of the best wet kits out there. however, wet is not safer and challenge anyone to prove otherwise?
Robert
Last edited by Robert56@RNS; Sep 28, 2008 at 04:15 AM.
n4cer i like that kit seems like wet is better on safety. i am a daily driver with my car so safety is key...its only 400 too..so is that harris speed works wet kit complete with everything you need? and how hard is it to put a nos system in?
I dont think one is safer than the other. Like Robert stated above, prove it. I personally use a wet kit that uses NX carbon Lightening solenoids and a nitrous outlet 90mm plate. It works great.
Also, If your looking for safety, get all the gizzmos to make it that way.
ie. Window switch, heater, WOT switch, etc.....