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Best in tank fuel system for 700-1500hp

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Old 10-18-2008, 12:11 AM
  #21  
0Arun@ChampionMotors
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Well you got my attention-can you at least post pics of yoru setup? PM them to me if you want instead-thanks!
Old 10-18-2008, 09:46 AM
  #22  
clif
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I too would love to see pictures of your system!
Old 10-20-2008, 12:55 PM
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kromberg
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Originally Posted by irun4cops
It is important to realize the slosh line is at the same level with the BOTTOM of the tanks.
That was the important missing piece of information.
Old 10-20-2008, 04:32 PM
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SoCalTTZ06
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Love to see pictures!!!
Old 10-20-2008, 05:21 PM
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irun4cops
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i thought i took a bunch of pics when we were building it, but i cant find them, only a couple.... and now that everythign is installed i dont think theres much to photograph... but im going to keep looking
Old 10-20-2008, 05:25 PM
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Z06Samuel
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Nice idea, thanks for sharing the info.
Sam
Old 10-20-2008, 06:35 PM
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Emuffinman1
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Pictures are needed!
Old 11-26-2008, 12:42 AM
  #28  
irun4cops
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pictures have been added
Old 11-26-2008, 02:24 AM
  #29  
irun4cops
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photos dont have the fuel lines attached. Ill take some photos of my car next time i have it up on the lift, of the complete system. dates on the photos are not actually accurate, the date was off on the camera when we snapped them a long time ago.
Old 11-26-2008, 12:35 PM
  #30  
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if building custom canisters is too much of a headache...

My recomendation would be to run a stock chevt plastic canister in BOTH tanks, and put a 255 in EACH tank.

Then do the slosh line and regulator, etc as described before.

My second word of advice is to notice the voltage drop across the chevy wiring... nearly 2 volts is lost from the alternator and battery... to the tip of the wire feeding the fuel pumps?!?!?!

We solved this by running a heavy guage wire from the fuse box back to the pumps instead of the little christmas light wire chevy used. This gained us 1 volt....

Then we bypassed the stock fuse and fuse box all together, and tapped into the fuel relay, and added a larger in line fuse on our heavy wire, that still pops at 30 amps. This solved the problem. No more 2 volts lost.

VOLTAGE AND CLEAN POWER ARE THE KEY TO FUEL PUMP PERFORMANCE AND LIFE.

an orange lingenfelter vette MELTED the stock fuel pump wiring with warbro 255's, and it didnt even have a boostapump on it!!!.... thats how small and tempermental these wires are... and the consiquence of one of them breaking or shorting is a blown up motor from running lean if you decide to run multiple pumps!!

Its not hard to find the motivation to replace this wire.
Old 06-01-2009, 05:04 PM
  #31  
J-Rod
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I know this is an old post, but I wondered what ever happened with this system?

Also, the power supply issue is the same issue we run into in the Buick T-Type world. One of the fixes is to run a separate power supply setup to the pumps. I was wondering if the Racetronix kit which has additional wiring would suffice.

I guess I am wondering if combining the Kyosan pumps with the Racetronix wiring kit would get you where you needed to be.

http://www.racetronix.com/RX-C5-FPK-2.html
Old 09-15-2011, 03:22 PM
  #32  
J-Rod
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Originally Posted by J-Rod
I know this is an old post, but I wondered what ever happened with this system?

Also, the power supply issue is the same issue we run into in the Buick T-Type world. One of the fixes is to run a separate power supply setup to the pumps. I was wondering if the Racetronix kit which has additional wiring would suffice.

I guess I am wondering if combining the Kyosan pumps with the Racetronix wiring kit would get you where you needed to be.

http://www.racetronix.com/RX-C5-FPK-2.html
Just bringing up a really, really old thread. Just wanted to see whatever happened with the slosh line idea, and if you think the Racetronix wiring harness would overcome the current loss you saw.
Old 11-22-2011, 09:24 AM
  #33  
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Not sure... Never used it
Old 11-22-2011, 10:58 AM
  #34  
396375
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The Racetronex universal double pump harness is a work of art.Worth every penny.



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