Hey guys, I ran my car on the dyno and logged it and it was making 16.5psi boost. I saw that much boost on the gauge and on the steet too. I logged the dyno runs and showed that the MAP sensor reading agreed, showing 210kpa. I put larger injectors on, aligned my pulleys and changed the intercooler and plumbing and to the passenger side and put a new gates 8-rib. Nothing else.

My problem is I am now only making about 13.5psi boost with the same 8"O.D. and 2.95" pulleys. The 2.95" is a Reichart pulley.
I compared logs and the boost from before is the same as now up until it hits 5800rpm. On the old log, the boost kept climbing and now it is going flat. I checked all of the plumbing but didn't do a boost leak check. I'm still trying to figure out the easiest way to block off both ends and pressurize it, but I wonder how realistic it would be for a leak to cause the boost to be flat up top. I am guessing that if there was a bad leak, the boost would be lower all the way across. Not so. I am thinking that the brand new belt is slipping. I increased the tension maxing out the spring loaded tensioner and lost 2 kpa boost. I have 1kmi on new PRC dual gold extreme springs so I don't think valve float is the problem. I figure if the blow off valve was broken, it would be lower boost all the way across too.

I would really appreciate some input here guys.
Does anyone know if there is any possible way that too much tension would cause the belt to slip worse? It doesn't make sense to me that would happen, but that is what happened to a small degree when I tightened it.

I am greatful for any ideas or opinions.

This is an expensive track rental and a rare opportunity for me. I would love to put on a good show. Either way, I will let you guys know how it performs. Will try to get video as well.

 

I would do a boost leak test FIRST. you don't need to block off anything, keep all your plumbing connected just as you would when you're driving the car. just put the tester on teh blower inlet and presurize the system. listen for leaks and fix them.

 

you probably already know this, but here goes.

take a pvc cap from lowes that will fit the id of your intercooler pipe and drill a hole in the endcap large enough to pull a tire valve stem in so that it fits snug. Then pressurize the system with about 10 psi or so and spray all of the connections with soapy water or just listen for leaks.

If you do find a leak try putting some regular houshold hair spray on the connection and reasemble before it dries and it will help hold the pipe where it will be alot harder for it to leak.

Are you running a maf or sd?

Last question, but this may sound crazy. Did your belt break and then wrap up around the head unit shaft? Mine did and I thought nothing of it until my head unit shaft started to leak oil...I don't feel like mine hurt the unit to not make as much power, but I guess it is remotely possible yours could have. Do you have any belt dust? Can you post a log file of some pulls? Maybe if you figure this out you can come fix my gas tanks

 

Post the screen shot of the log but I'm sure it's belt slip. Are you sure you put the Reichard pulley on the correct way? The engraving should be towards the head unit-so you don't see it. Next thing-is go easy on the tension-drive around, get the belt warm then start leaning on it. The best belts are the softest-we use the Goodyear Gatorback belts.

 

Thanks everybody. God bless you for your help! I just finished rigging up a cap and when I sprayed air in the head unit, I heard it coming out the BOV. With no vacuum, the BOV isn't supposed to be open is it???

 

I am running SD tune. when my belt broke, it didn't tear up the seal. This isn't a contained unit, but it's clean. I haven't noticed any belt dust.

Arun, with Andy's bracket, if you put the pulley on backwards, it won't go because it hits the adjustable idler/tensioner.
It seems to take alot of pressure to close this BOV. I don't see any way it should be this way.

 

It should not be leaking...what bpv are you using? I have an old plastic bosch if you want to try it. Which track rental are you going to? Oh and now you need to send me your little cap you made so I can test mine.

 

Your running the Small Vortech BOV correct, the blue one? Well it should be open at idle and cruising-it only closes underboost. If the BOV is leaking, it will leak all the time.

 

Thanks man. I have the Vortech valve. It has some bellows on it and the bellows is supposed to have some neat folds in it and those folds are wrinkled up not allowing it to close completely. I called Taylor from Dallas performance and he is going to weld me a Tial on there in the morning. I have to say that is one nice guy! I left him a message an hour ago and he called me back. He's closed tomorrow, but offered to meet me at his shop early so I could get the new wastegate welded on and get to the track. I'm trying to go to the Texas Motorplex.

I must say desperate times call for desperate measures. I used the lid to a 1qt paint can because I think Home Depot closes at 9:00. I drilled a little hole in it and used my hose nozzle on my compressor to blow into the hole.
Real nice of you to offer me your Bosch BOV/BPV! I'll let you guys know what happens. I certainly hope this isn't a bad omen!

Thanks again guys!!
And just know that if you're running high boost, the Vortech valve is not for you!!!

 

Bret I have pictures of Tial installed on A&A kit stock location. I had to weld a flange to the Tial. I will PM you the pictures when I get home

 

My little bosch valve held 15psi and never skipped a beat, but I just upgraded for ****s and giggles. Your more than welcome to it if you want it. Good luck by the way at the track. I was going to say if you were in houston I would just bring you the bpv since I was heading up there tommorow.

 

You should upgrade to a Vortech Mondo or the Procharger race valve-a Tial is designed for a Turbo-it will eventually kill your impellar and you'll see muich higher IAT temps. Call up Vortech's tech to confirm-we need By-pass valves, not blow off valves.

Here are the only 2 valves Hi-boost supercharged cars should ever run.

 

Well, if he has a Mondo valve, I will put that on. I have logged my IAT's in the intake manifold from day one and saved them. I will keep an eye on them. I fixed the Vortech, but I really don't understand what happened that wadded the bellows up on that thing, so I'm not comfortable putting it back on. If something happens where Taylor can't help me in the morning, at least I have an out so I can go play. Thanks again guys. I'm gonna call it a night.

 

def sounds like a boost leak. where are you T ur BOV at . Yes as per andy the valve should be open at idle and during vac. But if you can presuarize your pipes it will act like if you are WOT so the BOV should close. If still air coming out of there then that means its bad .

 

why not get a TIAL they are nice and sound great.

 

I have a vortec mondo with flange & coupler, exactly the same one in the above pic, for sale if anyone is interested. only reason I'm selling it is because I swtiched to a tial 50mm.

 

Hey Ed. I think you might have misunderstood my question or are answering another one. This valve was open in my hand. These things should not be open when you have them out of the car in your hand. The O ring had fallen off and when I took it apart, the rubber bellows that actuates the piston was wadded up. For the record, I NEVER touched that valve inside the BOV. Thanks man!

 

I'm going to the track today, but just to let everyone know, I have no experience driving anything but auto's on the track except my late AWD *** wagon. I'm not expecting good track times. Just to have a good time.
I figure with a track rental, I'll get plenty of practice and I'm not an idiot, so if it doesn't break, I should get some decent times.

 

At your power level make sure your using a good tire. Good luck and have fun!

 

Glad you found your problem.You sure have helped out enough guys on this forum.Just row your boat and you'll get here down.
Good luck.