radiator cradle
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
radiator cradle
Sorry; another cradle question
Anyone have a photo of their "relocated" radiator mounting bracket (for mounting a procharger)? I thought I had this figured out until I spoke with a forum member that said it had to go back 1" and DOWN 2"
The back should be fairly easy, the down, not so much
Anyone have a photo of their "relocated" radiator mounting bracket (for mounting a procharger)? I thought I had this figured out until I spoke with a forum member that said it had to go back 1" and DOWN 2"
The back should be fairly easy, the down, not so much
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,737
Likes: 0
From: Northern VA
I don't have pics, but the bottom of the rad will move toward the front of the car, and the top will move toward the engine. Hence the term "laid back". How much? Enough for your NEW blower inlet pipe to clear the top of the radiator.
Hard to image doing this without another set of hands. The cradle needs to be carefully marked before modification.
Hopefully someone who has done this with a HO kit will chime in...
Hard to image doing this without another set of hands. The cradle needs to be carefully marked before modification.
Hopefully someone who has done this with a HO kit will chime in...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
My "plans" are to pull the cradle out tonight, cut the horizontal bar off, then have someone weld some flat stock to the ends of the bar, drill a couple of holes in the flat stock and then "test" (clamp) it in different locations (2",2 1/2" etc) until I get the clearance I need, then drill the holes through the two cradle pieces and bolt it in place.
There are a couple of drilled and tapped holes in the cradle (for the factory air dam I think) that are going to have to be address someway
There are a couple of drilled and tapped holes in the cradle (for the factory air dam I think) that are going to have to be address someway
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: big rock il
I bought some old bracket relocation pieces that use the stock holes on the cradle. Didnt want to weld it then have to cut it again and reweld on de-mod. Looks like brackets should be easy to make. Hope this helps. Ted
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: big rock il
I guess that is what came with the early a&a kits. Got them from andy. I will go out and measure and get back to you. Worked out pretty good. I looked into lowering the cradle but didnt want to put it any lower than stock due to scraping curbs and such. Ted
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
Wow, that's the most I have seen. Can you run your intake directly to the inlet now?
I really appreciate you taking the time to take the photos and measurements. I'm going to copy your version
I really appreciate you taking the time to take the photos and measurements. I'm going to copy your version
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: big rock il
Its still not a straight shot but not bad. I used the stock radiator top cover cut down and mounted in the stock location. Have to trim it under the intake pipe a little. If you want some more pics pm me and i can send some to you. Hope that helps and good luck
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 21,473
Likes: 356
From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
This would help many others too, plus do you have anyother shots perhaps from the top too
I've even thought about slanting mine instead of being the original way and by the pictures now I could make some brackets and slant my radiator too.
Again, only if you got the time and a few more pictures as well as how you did it and how "THOSE" brackets worked.
Thanks,Matt
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
I took my cradle out last night, and am having some welding done today. One thing I did was, based on another members suggestions, was to cut the actual radiator supports (bottom of radiator sits on) and moved them to the other side of the horizontal bar. It turns out that didn't give me near enough room, so now I am going to install this bracket. ANYWAY, since the supports are off, I'm having them re-welded approx. 1/2" lower on the horizontal brace. That extra 1/2", along with moving the radiator forward, should give me some good room I hope
T and J
Like you, I want to use my top cap. I have seen many others without it, and I don't really like the look that much. I am also going to try and modify the lower shroud (that directs the air to the rad.) and reinstall it too
T and J
Like you, I want to use my top cap. I have seen many others without it, and I don't really like the look that much. I am also going to try and modify the lower shroud (that directs the air to the rad.) and reinstall it too
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,472
Likes: 18
From: Lake Ozark, MO
Last edited by Hvymtlc5; Feb 12, 2009 at 08:15 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
Sure.
Send me your e-mail and I'll try to get a shot in the next couple of days (working VERY long hours )
I basically just cut the horizontal bar (that the radiator mounting pads are on) made a "T" bracket out of steel, bolted it to the horizontal bar, and then kelp moving it forward on the radiator cradle until the lines wouldn't allow any more (approx. 4 1/2" forward from the original spot) and clamped it into place, drilled two holes in the cradle bar, and installed bolts.
It took a WHILE to figure it out with all these guys help, but the next one would be a breeze now that I understand it.
Send me your e-mail and I'll try to get a shot in the next couple of days (working VERY long hours )
I basically just cut the horizontal bar (that the radiator mounting pads are on) made a "T" bracket out of steel, bolted it to the horizontal bar, and then kelp moving it forward on the radiator cradle until the lines wouldn't allow any more (approx. 4 1/2" forward from the original spot) and clamped it into place, drilled two holes in the cradle bar, and installed bolts.
It took a WHILE to figure it out with all these guys help, but the next one would be a breeze now that I understand it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 0
From: Houston TX
ok so that 1x1 bar you just cut out, moved forward, then bolted back with your tbracket?
email:
TXZ0603@yahoo.com
email:
TXZ0603@yahoo.com
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: G-town Kentucky
hey bottle fed. if ya have time i'd like to see ur pics also. i'm fixin to relocate my radiator in the next couple of weeks.
stangbangin69@yahoo.com
thnx anthony
stangbangin69@yahoo.com
thnx anthony
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
ok so that 1x1 bar you just cut out, moved forward, then bolted back with your tbracket?
email:
TXZ0603@yahoo.com
email:
TXZ0603@yahoo.com
Just remember you will have to straighten out the bottom AC to condenser line just a little to get the bottom of the rad. to travel far enough.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 9
From: Dublin GA
hey bottle fed. if ya have time i'd like to see ur pics also. i'm fixin to relocate my radiator in the next couple of weeks.
stangbangin69@yahoo.com
thnx anthony
stangbangin69@yahoo.com
thnx anthony