It moves the unsprung weight away from the wheels. Jag's did this on the "E" types.

 

Not really pricey if you think about it.

1. Looks like you could run 15" rims on that set up and still have nice size rotors
2. The upgraded axle (shown on right side of pic) is only a $100. upgrade
3. Comes with coil overs

Problem is, it would have to be made so it could connect up to a trans.

 

Good call on the unsprung weight, i wasn't even thinking.

Yeah, the price isnt too bad, i agree.... for what you get.

Im in a research phase right now, and i havent fully decided yet what kind of car im going to build yet either. Im starting to lean towards somethign that will turn some heads as well as something that is extremely light... but not a tiny car where a big guy cant fit in it, something like one of these from dragon that uses the corvette driveline.
http://www.dragonmotorcars.com/C5Lister.html




Im going to have to do some research if one would even need a rear end of these proportions if the car weighs under 2000lbs. But i plan on running about 1500hp that way i can just kill myself once and for all... but in style

If i did one of these lightweight projects, i would still figure out a way to run some large drag tires on the back as an option for taking it to the track or just when i want to give it that look.

The other choice is the original idea of a super vette with 2000ish hp, not sure yet. I think building a full tube frame for a car would be fun.

 

There's plenty of tube frame Corvette rollers on Racingjunk.com (cheap)

 

im not sure if those frames would work tho... I guess id have to look under their hoods and see how they are set up first.

 

I would look into one of those frames that are made by Art Morrisson, etc... and use a vintage vette body with all of the modern hardware, etc ...

That would be the least expensive and best platform for what you're trying to do. $15K - $25K will get you a nice chassis set-up.

Then you'll need the drive line and body. You can pick up some old bodies or restro rod body.

 

Whatever you do...make sure you have something over your head. I wouldn't stick 1500 hp in a convertible for sure.

1500 HP is a lot of power...you do realize that don't you? 500 HP is probably enough to scare you in a 2000 lb car.

 

i know, i know its basically the dumbest idea ever... i just know if i dont do it the first time, ill keep tinkering with it until it finally is.

Im shooting for a car that wont be beaten anytime in the next 10 years in any facet of racing, but still looks cool and can be driven around town.

I know 1000hp would be plenty rediculous, but yeah, why not just do it right the first time. I can always de tune it or regulate boost.

There will be something over my head for sure... but i think im going to make it removable because when i have something over my head, i want it to be really heavy duty.

 

i spent today exploring awd possibilities using an ls motor. Looked into the subaru system, and talked to some of our techs, the subaru system wouldnt work because the motor is too far back in the ls vette position, and subarus front wheel output shafts come out the sides of the transmission.

So i looked into the skyline setup, and talked to a few guys who used to race these, and they said the problem was horrible torque steer, and explained all the nightmares to me. The new gtr overcomes this by putting a clutch at each wheel that is electronically monitored. Not sure i want to mess with that, so im pretty stuck on just doing rear wheel drive. Maybe something will come along that changes my mind.

So still in the hunt for the perfect rear end setup for a high powered ls motor.

 

I don't think that's possible, you can't have it all.

"Any facet of racing" is a big scope. Even straight line races require different set ups. You don't typically see an 1/8 mile car run in the Texas Mile with out changing something.

I can already see your next post, "Varible Differential caple of 2000 HP"

Just messin with ya.....

 

Funny thing is the the first pictures you posted of that 200k car with the Dana 44 rear end and they didn't even use the heavy duty rear cover. I mean really, if I am going to pay 200k to 300k for a car I expect the people who built it to take the time to search around for the heavy duty cover for an 1800hp car, it was in enough stock vettes. That's just weak, literally.

P.S. On the heavy duty cover the crossribs on the batwings are as thick as the whole batwing itself and not just thin little bars. Do a search, one of the vette magazines talked about it a while ago with pictures and everything.

 

[QUOTE=JET LEE;1568922144]I don't think that's possible, you can't have it all.

"Any facet of racing" is a big scope. Even straight line races require different set ups. You don't typically see an 1/8 mile car run in the Texas Mile with out changing something.
[QUOTE]

I see your point, but understand mine.

If im in a car that has 1000hp, and only weighs 1900lbs, and HAD awd...

no vette, viper, enzo, etc is going to beat it in a 1/8 mile

Then, take that same car, it didnt need special gearing for the 1/8 mile to win... and it has the gearing in it to run 250+mph, and has a lower roof line than a vette, viper, enzo, etc... ill win that too. its simple math, i have more power, and a lower roof line.

So thats what im getting at. Im aware there are tradeoffs, and the most important thing is to shed weight and hight... and if you shed enough of each... theres really no threat left.

Now consider, im not stopping at 1000, but shooting for much more. Useless power in the lower gears, sure, but it has its place up top.

But lets be realistic, im not going to spend the time perfecting an awd system for an ls motor setup. Can it be done? Probably, but im just going to do rwd... and in addition, my car is probably going to weigh about 2200-2300lbs after i get done adding power adders and beefed up drive train components.

But still, an r8 pulls up, an enzo, a mclaren, a 1000hp vette, a lambo... and all their future inventions for the next several years...

I dont think its too far fetched to say that in a car like the ones pictured above that have the same power to weight as the enzo with only 400hp under the hood.....

I WILL BEAT ANY OF THE CARS LISTED IN ANY RACING EVENT. Or you can beat them if you build something that light... its common sense.

So my statement stands, and in the next 10 years, if i built something like this, ill still say... im not scared to race any street car in any facit of racing. (except a rally course) Hopefully this makes sense.

 

here ya go, not only the perfect rear, but the perfect car (cheap)

I have a build 1980 corvette drag car with a modular 9 inch ford with a spool 4 link,. car has a tube frame on top of back halfed stock corvette frame (built like a tank, and not too heavy, car weighs 2900 with an iron head BB chevy) full cage, turbo 400 with tranny break, 468 BB chevy on alchy (flying toilet) this is a turn key car.

this car was built to withstand 2k HP and launch straight. the original owner of the car built it up and did all the chassis mods for an all alum keith black 555 BB chevy with an F1 procharger, but decided to get out of racing before he finished it. I haven't raced the car in a while, and have too little $$ and too many project and toys. my thought was to build a TT BB chevy (and I may still do it!) and have the car already set up for 2k hp and most importantly be able to hook it.

car has HUGE GY slicks on the back, is tinned and tubbed. nice looking car, the body style is still the sexiest vette to me.

by they time you "mod up" something to hold 2k HP, you will spend a fair amount.

so here you go, drop the LSX motor in this one with a powerglide, and let it eat. the chassis and rear is already built for that HP level, and the car most importantly is SAFE. built the hold the HP, and has all the safety equipment including fire suppression, cage, net, new belts, ect..

PM me if interested I need 23k for it or it stays in the garage and gets raced next season.

 

the problem with mounting the brakes near the diff is heat! its much harder to get rid of the heat when mounted there.

it was done in racing for many many years.

However all application i can think of now mount the brakes on the hubs not at the diff.......

If you want the reduce unsprung weight, investigate Carbon ceramic brakes, Carbon wheels, mag hubs, carbon wishbones, etc....

Cheers Chris.

 

I belive the main purpose it so they can overheat, crack the rotors, fly into the fuel tank and kill you in a dramatic fireball.

No way I would want to deal with bleeding brakes and swapping pads on inboard calipers, that design would be fine for a show queen poser or a drag car, not for a road course or autocross car.

 

these are probalby why the race teams dont do things any more. as said above, if you want the reduce un-sprung weight fit lighter wheels then go carbon ceramic brakes or start making some suspension components tubular steel.

cheers

Chris.

 

[QUOTE=irun4cops;1568922740][QUOTE=JET LEE;1568922144]I don't think that's possible, you can't have it all.

"Any facet of racing" is a big scope. Even straight line races require different set ups. You don't typically see an 1/8 mile car run in the Texas Mile with out changing something.

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
I wish I had that much to build what you are talking about, sounds really cool.