I have a stock LS1 and I'm looking to purchase a N2O system. This is a daily driver and I like to take it to the drag strip several times a year.

1> Should I purchase a wet or dry system?
2> How much does it cost to fill a 10lb. bottle?
3> If I only use this at the track how many passes can I expect out of a 10lb. bottle?

 

Hello, Mr Anderson. Myself I prefer dry due to the fact that it can be safer than a wet kit. Some will argue this fact, but have nothing to back up their contention that wet is safer or both are the same safety wise. If need be I can elaborate. Now with that said, a wet hit can be fairly safe with all the safety goodies and many run wet with great success.

The dry can be self tuned for a/f ratio and timing pull when running the Dry plate kit that includes the Interface. The Interface is a piggy back controller that works with the stock PCM to correctly fuel the nitrous at all times, and to pull the timing needed per size hit used. I have this kit in a package deal that includes everything needed for a full install. This includes our MicroEdge window SW with a/f ratio display (good for dialing in sprayed a/f ratio) and many other features such as the lean/rich shut down and TPS control. I even include a nice billet N2O filter to combat the sticking open N2O solenoid issue and most kits do not include this.

Generally we can go to about 450/480rwhp total on stock 28lb injectors. If your size hit cause an estimated total HP beyond this, we can up-size the injectors, or consider going wet. I don't have my wet package deals on the web site yet, but they are similar to the Dry package deals I offer.

Depending on how much per lb, your fill could be 30/70 bucks. You will get total amount of runs dependent on size hits, but likely 10/15 per 10lb bottle. I do offer a 15lb bottle upgrade for extended usage and less bottle psi drop per run. That is something to consider, a bottle heater or NANO. There is mucho info on the NANO technology on my site for added insight in to your spraying needs.

Anyway, just some basic info to get the process started. I would love to help you choose a kit, and once I get an idea of your knowledge concerning nitrous I will know more what info to post. Please look around on my site as most sections have a detailed pictorial of some sort, for insight on how others may be installing components. Let me know if I can help in any way, and I will certainly help any way i can whether you buy from me or not, as is my usual practice.
Robert

 

Man iam selling new nitrous outlet kit its a wet plate kit, plus i have extra accessories u can buy whole or part i can make a deal.

Searh in parts section "N2O" or nitrous outlet.

Its new and asking 40% less than new kit.
Let me know.

I dont have any comments on dry kit, as never used but with the tuning capability these days both can be run safely.

 

I would personally run a wet kit. With all the safety goodies it will work really well. You also won't have to run bigger injectors. I don't know how you can run 450-480rwhp on stock injectors. My car is almost maxing out the injectors with just bolt-ons. Bottles are usually 50-100 bucks to get filled. How long each bottle will last depends on what size shot you are running.

 

He stated a stock LS1, now if he had stated it was a bolt on car we would look at current hp, then determine what size hit before needing injectors. Some guys can only go with a 50 shot with some bolt ons. The point is overall HP is about 450/480 as limit for stock injectors. what gets me, no one ever uses the injectors to try and sway people from going bolt ons, turbos, blowers. My opinion is this, so we may need injectors, the added safety factor is worth how much for saving a motor? and the fact that everything is in the dry plate kit to self tune, wet kits not at all. I went to 480rwhp, dry, on my LS6 before needing to up-size my stock 28lb'ers, but if someone wants to run their shot at a richer a/f ratio that HP limit will drop. All cars are different, and one of the reasons I always suggest starting small, checking tune, then start the climb to higher HP. Do you have a personal reason for liking wet over dry (not busting your *****, just wondering)? You do know about all the break thru's in the dry technology in the last year or two?
Robert

 

imo, wet is easier to tune (dont like the interface, but lets not get into that) and can run a standalone with race fuel if he so chooses. i think its just different strokes for different folks.

 

That's cool, and I always listen to your opinions, but I respectfully whole heartedly disagree that wet is easier to tune, concerning the current dry plate kits. The threads about how a guy had to take a jet, fuel or nitrous, from the HP rating higher or lower, to get an acceptable a/f ratio, with the wet, continue to this day. There is just no way to dial in the a/f ratio exactly with wet. When I was running wet hits I had a numbered drill bit set and small jets I could drill out to dial in the a/f ratio as the kits have not enough jets. However, now with the Interface we can dial in the a/f ratio in 5hp increments leaner or richer and get exactly the a/f ratio we want, the first day or hour after install. I know you had problems with the Interface, but I can assure you that many thousands since have had it work just fine. We can even progress the dry hits via the injectors right out of the box. Then comes timing pull, the Interface allows us to also deduct the timing pull right from the get go too, wet kits do not include this ability. But, the Interface can be used on wet hits also, for those that like wet kits. It's a great time to be into nitrous, wet or dry, plate or direct port. Just steer clear of the dated nozzle kits, IMO.

We can also run race fuel in the main tank as there is no need for a stand alone, wet or dry, if someone doesn't want to add a fuel tank in the engine bay. I have mine set-up (rpm activated parallel fuel system) to transfer the race gas out of the main tank when leaving the strip, if i want. it takes about 5 minutes. This way we are also getting the full benefit of the octane, not mixing high with low like the stand alone. such a small part of the fuel comes from the standalone that it becomes watered down and we only see an increase of a couple points in the octane rating. But again, preference and size hit will determine which is best for any end user. The add on fuel system from A&A works wonders.
Robert

 

here's a link to a write-up on fuel system modding. A lot of insight can be had reading this. I forgot to add this in the last post. The 2nd section is for F-Bodies, but the dual in tank pumps also apply to our cars, so it's a good insightfull read too.
http://www.robertsnitrousservice.com/n2ofuelsystemswriteup.htm