nitrous help (bogs and spitters)
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,456
Likes: 29
From: Wichita Falls Texas
nitrous help (bogs and spitters)
well i installed my nx nitrous kit. and went out to test it.
i have a tps, fuel saftey, msd window switch. when i activate it, it just bogs and spitters and doesnt work and runs better without it. it also does it when not even at full throttle. i check all solenoids and tps switch. everything looks good and seems to work.
do i have some wiring wronge or is something not working right.
any help is appreicated
i have a tps, fuel saftey, msd window switch. when i activate it, it just bogs and spitters and doesnt work and runs better without it. it also does it when not even at full throttle. i check all solenoids and tps switch. everything looks good and seems to work.
do i have some wiring wronge or is something not working right.
any help is appreicated
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 78
From: Forney Texas
Stupid question, but did you remember to open the bottle? Sounds like you're getting fuel and no nitrous. Do you have a pressure gauge? If so, how much pressure? If you have too much pressure, it can prevent the solenoid from opening. You may need to get a volt meter and extend the leads to the wiring and have someone watch the voltage across the solenoids while testing the system. Good grounds, like with all electonics, are critical. Did you tie into the end of the fuel rail for fuel? Did you remember to remove the schrader valve?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,225
Likes: 42
From: Okinawa
How did you check the TPS sensor? You checked the voltage through the whole range? You said it runs bad when your not a full throttle so your kit wouldnt even be on if thats the case. So I would look at your splices first. Does it smell rich?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,456
Likes: 29
From: Wichita Falls Texas
Stupid question, but did you remember to open the bottle? Sounds like you're getting fuel and no nitrous. Do you have a pressure gauge? If so, how much pressure? If you have too much pressure, it can prevent the solenoid from opening. You may need to get a volt meter and extend the leads to the wiring and have someone watch the voltage across the solenoids while testing the system. Good grounds, like with all electonics, are critical. Did you tie into the end of the fuel rail for fuel? Did you remember to remove the schrader valve?
i bypassed all the saftey switches to make sure the solenoids were working and they are.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,456
Likes: 29
From: Wichita Falls Texas
also when at idle and i arm the nitrous, the idle dips a tad like 50 rpms and when off goes back up. i dont know if its just a load or not
Last edited by corvette8189; Oct 12, 2009 at 11:59 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 78
From: Forney Texas
Proper sized jets in the proper positions and not reversed? Have you tried to make a pass and looked to see if your bottle pressure is going down? When you say you bypassed all of the safety switches and tested the solenoids, what did you do? Jump power over to the solenoids manually? If that's the case, you may have proven the solenoids are working, but now you need to monitor voltage coming out of the window switch and relays while triggering the system using the TPS and make sure you're getting good voltage all the way to both solenoids when you're supposed to.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,456
Likes: 29
From: Wichita Falls Texas
Proper sized jets in the proper positions and not reversed? Have you tried to make a pass and looked to see if your bottle pressure is going down? When you say you bypassed all of the safety switches and tested the solenoids, what did you do? Jump power over to the solenoids manually? If that's the case, you may have proven the solenoids are working, but now you need to monitor voltage coming out of the window switch and relays while triggering the system using the TPS and make sure you're getting good voltage all the way to both solenoids when you're supposed to.
ill check voltage tomrrow.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 78
From: Forney Texas
Other things to make sure.
Colder plugs. NGK TR6 (4177's) gapped at .035"
More than 100 shot, back off timing at 2-3° per 50 horsepower. If the car has been tuned before with the timing table tweaked for optimum N/A power, I would reduce timing on any shot over a 50.
If you already have TR6's in the car, pull them and inspect them for specs on the ceramic and ground strap, revealing signs of detonation from your previous attempts. If you see that, don't run the car without reducing timing or find a good machine shop.
Last edited by BLOWNBLUEZ06; Oct 13, 2009 at 03:37 AM.
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,456
Likes: 29
From: Wichita Falls Texas
It'll make it run worse for sure. Fuel jet sizing is calculated for nitrous flowing at full bottle pressure. Fill your bottle, make sure every electrical connection getting the voltage it is supposed. Even arm the system, turn off the bottle, cap off the fuel line and test voltage to the solenoids at WOT. If both solenoids are getting voltage at the solenoids, button it back up, take note of the beginning bottle pressure and ending bottle pressure to prove the nitrous is flowing.
Other things to make sure.
Colder plugs. NGK TR6 (4177's) gapped at .035"
More than 100 shot, back off timing at 2-3° per 50 horsepower. If the car has been tuned before with the timing table tweaked for optimum N/A power, I would reduce timing on any shot over a 50.
If you already have TR6's in the car, pull them and inspect them for specs on the ceramic and ground strap, revealing signs of detonation from your previous attempts. If you see that, don't run the car without reducing timing or find a good machine shop.
Other things to make sure.
Colder plugs. NGK TR6 (4177's) gapped at .035"
More than 100 shot, back off timing at 2-3° per 50 horsepower. If the car has been tuned before with the timing table tweaked for optimum N/A power, I would reduce timing on any shot over a 50.
If you already have TR6's in the car, pull them and inspect them for specs on the ceramic and ground strap, revealing signs of detonation from your previous attempts. If you see that, don't run the car without reducing timing or find a good machine shop.
ya i have tr6 plugs and had my timing pulled 4 degrees to 24
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,456
Likes: 29
From: Wichita Falls Texas
Racer
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 251
Likes: 9
From: Franklin KY
Sorry man, not an expert. Wet or dry? Where are you shooting? Location. Set-up. Purge kit? Remote bottle? Dude, your stuff sounds like mine. Ain't no genious like the rest of these dudes, but my purge is leaking. May be the same for your actual solenoid.
Last edited by Hawkdriver; Oct 13, 2009 at 11:19 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,225
Likes: 42
From: Okinawa
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 78
From: Forney Texas
One other thing I forgot to mention is scotch locks on the wiring. If you have those, you have committed a sin. Say 10 hail Marys and get those things off your wiring. I have seen them cause more trouble with connections than you might believe. Solder your connections. It would be a real nasty event to lose the fuel solenoid connection and not the nitrous.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,456
Likes: 29
From: Wichita Falls Texas
well i redid everything and it did the same thing, so i started elimnating stuff. it turned out to be the msd window switch. so if your idle drops or nitrous bogs/ doesnt work check your window switch.
