Kenne bell BAP installation
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,103
Likes: 4
From: Oakley CA
Kenne bell BAP installation
Hey,
question about installing a KB BAP. Does the hobbs switch need to be used or can you just bypass it and run the BAP at all times? Also what about the controller? Is that really needed or can the wire be cut and soldered together so it is allways at 100%?
question about installing a KB BAP. Does the hobbs switch need to be used or can you just bypass it and run the BAP at all times? Also what about the controller? Is that really needed or can the wire be cut and soldered together so it is allways at 100%?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,121
Likes: 3
From: Shreveport/Bossier Louisiana
St. Jude Donor '08
Hope that helps
Pro
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 509
Likes: 0
From: Saskatoon
I'm going to take this to the next level, literally.
The car had a BAP wired to an intake Racetronix pump. I installed the A&A boost referenced system and in the process I removed then BAP from the Racetronix pump. The BAP is still on the car, but not installed.
I'm looking at upping the booost and I can't see the 455lph pump with the A&A keeping up to 800-850rwhp so I was planning on tacking on the BAP to the A&A pump.
I don't really want to run a 2nd hobbs switch to boost reference the BAP so I was thinking about just wiring it inline so that it fires up the same time as the external pump. Andy said I should use a 2nd hobbs and boost reference that one to say 10psi and leave the bosch at 5psi. At 10psi, the BAP would then kick on and supply more voltage...but I really don't want to run another vacuum port and then risk having not 1, but 2 hobbs fail.
So....any problems wiring in the BAP to the bosch 455lph external and run more votage to it full time (once it kicks on of course)??
The car had a BAP wired to an intake Racetronix pump. I installed the A&A boost referenced system and in the process I removed then BAP from the Racetronix pump. The BAP is still on the car, but not installed.
I'm looking at upping the booost and I can't see the 455lph pump with the A&A keeping up to 800-850rwhp so I was planning on tacking on the BAP to the A&A pump.
I don't really want to run a 2nd hobbs switch to boost reference the BAP so I was thinking about just wiring it inline so that it fires up the same time as the external pump. Andy said I should use a 2nd hobbs and boost reference that one to say 10psi and leave the bosch at 5psi. At 10psi, the BAP would then kick on and supply more voltage...but I really don't want to run another vacuum port and then risk having not 1, but 2 hobbs fail.
So....any problems wiring in the BAP to the bosch 455lph external and run more votage to it full time (once it kicks on of course)??
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,103
Likes: 4
From: Oakley CA
I'm going to take this to the next level, literally.
The car had a BAP wired to an intake Racetronix pump. I installed the A&A boost referenced system and in the process I removed then BAP from the Racetronix pump. The BAP is still on the car, but not installed.
I'm looking at upping the booost and I can't see the 455lph pump with the A&A keeping up to 800-850rwhp so I was planning on tacking on the BAP to the A&A pump.
I don't really want to run a 2nd hobbs switch to boost reference the BAP so I was thinking about just wiring it inline so that it fires up the same time as the external pump. Andy said I should use a 2nd hobbs and boost reference that one to say 10psi and leave the bosch at 5psi. At 10psi, the BAP would then kick on and supply more voltage...but I really don't want to run another vacuum port and then risk having not 1, but 2 hobbs fail.
So....any problems wiring in the BAP to the bosch 455lph external and run more votage to it full time (once it kicks on of course)??
The car had a BAP wired to an intake Racetronix pump. I installed the A&A boost referenced system and in the process I removed then BAP from the Racetronix pump. The BAP is still on the car, but not installed.
I'm looking at upping the booost and I can't see the 455lph pump with the A&A keeping up to 800-850rwhp so I was planning on tacking on the BAP to the A&A pump.
I don't really want to run a 2nd hobbs switch to boost reference the BAP so I was thinking about just wiring it inline so that it fires up the same time as the external pump. Andy said I should use a 2nd hobbs and boost reference that one to say 10psi and leave the bosch at 5psi. At 10psi, the BAP would then kick on and supply more voltage...but I really don't want to run another vacuum port and then risk having not 1, but 2 hobbs fail.
So....any problems wiring in the BAP to the bosch 455lph external and run more votage to it full time (once it kicks on of course)??
Honeywell makes a dual circuit boost referanced switch
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Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,876
Likes: 8
From: Las Vegas NV
St. Jude Donor '06 & '12
Wiring it full time is bad for both the BAP and fuel pump.. It WILL eventually fry. As per KB, it is really suggested you dont do that. You are essentially overloading the circuit
Yes, there are guys who are successfully running it that way, but the failure rate over the traditional wiring is many many times greater.
Run it switched, and call it a day.
Yes, there are guys who are successfully running it that way, but the failure rate over the traditional wiring is many many times greater.
Run it switched, and call it a day.
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,876
Likes: 8
From: Las Vegas NV
St. Jude Donor '06 & '12
No, you will not have an issue running a BAP on a 455lph pump. But if I were you, if you havent bought the BAP yet, buy the competition 20v pump. It works great on the big pumps.
Also, do not run 2 switches. Just run 1. Remember, everytime you turn on a fuel pump, or activate a BAP, you have a pressure spike in the line. In some cases, you can run into inconsistant fueling due to these spikes. By running 2 switches, your compounding the problem.
What I would do, is take an adjustable hobbs switch. Turn it up (above) your required turn on point. Then do a couple of runs, and see where in the data logs that your car becomes dependent on this system. Reference that against the boost pressure at that point. Then dial down the hobbs switch right before that point. This way, when your car has the ability to consume without creating excess return back pressure, the system will activate, and the pressure spike will be virtually non existant. Back pressure on the return side, is where the most heat is generated.
I hope this helps
Also, do not run 2 switches. Just run 1. Remember, everytime you turn on a fuel pump, or activate a BAP, you have a pressure spike in the line. In some cases, you can run into inconsistant fueling due to these spikes. By running 2 switches, your compounding the problem.
What I would do, is take an adjustable hobbs switch. Turn it up (above) your required turn on point. Then do a couple of runs, and see where in the data logs that your car becomes dependent on this system. Reference that against the boost pressure at that point. Then dial down the hobbs switch right before that point. This way, when your car has the ability to consume without creating excess return back pressure, the system will activate, and the pressure spike will be virtually non existant. Back pressure on the return side, is where the most heat is generated.
I hope this helps
I'm going to take this to the next level, literally.
The car had a BAP wired to an intake Racetronix pump. I installed the A&A boost referenced system and in the process I removed then BAP from the Racetronix pump. The BAP is still on the car, but not installed.
I'm looking at upping the booost and I can't see the 455lph pump with the A&A keeping up to 800-850rwhp so I was planning on tacking on the BAP to the A&A pump.
I don't really want to run a 2nd hobbs switch to boost reference the BAP so I was thinking about just wiring it inline so that it fires up the same time as the external pump. Andy said I should use a 2nd hobbs and boost reference that one to say 10psi and leave the bosch at 5psi. At 10psi, the BAP would then kick on and supply more voltage...but I really don't want to run another vacuum port and then risk having not 1, but 2 hobbs fail.
So....any problems wiring in the BAP to the bosch 455lph external and run more votage to it full time (once it kicks on of course)??
The car had a BAP wired to an intake Racetronix pump. I installed the A&A boost referenced system and in the process I removed then BAP from the Racetronix pump. The BAP is still on the car, but not installed.
I'm looking at upping the booost and I can't see the 455lph pump with the A&A keeping up to 800-850rwhp so I was planning on tacking on the BAP to the A&A pump.
I don't really want to run a 2nd hobbs switch to boost reference the BAP so I was thinking about just wiring it inline so that it fires up the same time as the external pump. Andy said I should use a 2nd hobbs and boost reference that one to say 10psi and leave the bosch at 5psi. At 10psi, the BAP would then kick on and supply more voltage...but I really don't want to run another vacuum port and then risk having not 1, but 2 hobbs fail.
So....any problems wiring in the BAP to the bosch 455lph external and run more votage to it full time (once it kicks on of course)??
