Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
Could some educated people around here tell me about the difference between some of the Maggie models? I've done some research, but a lot of the threads I read were kinda old, so I'm hoping to hear some new info on how some of the new Maggies are performing.
Which would be best for a forged 346 looking to make 600hp ish?
122, TVS (1900 or 2300), maybe even the ol' 112? What about the HH models?
I'm cheap so I'm looking for a used blower, and thought with some of the new models coming out, maybe guys would be off-loading thier old ones.
I'm thinking when I go forged (some day), I'll probably stick with stock displacement for a couple of reasons. Fuel mileage being one. The other being torque. Since the PD blowers emphasize so much on the bottom end already, maybe smaller cubes would be better for drivability (traction)? I'm asuming cam selection could probably help a lot to optimize the higher RPM power as well.
Just kinda brain-storming, and looking for input/experience. Thanks

 

If your cheap this isn't the section for you. Joking Used maggies go for about 4500. So not cheap and you still have to buy a hood another 1500 the time you paint or more. Not cheap. May think about a centri a little cheaper and there are a few in the forsale fourm right now. JMO good luck

 

PD blowers are not the cheapest route by any means. A used maggie when all is said and done along with the hood will run you at least as much but likely much more than a brand new centri. A&A and ECS have some great kits without needing a replacement hood.

Your question however is an interesting one because when it comes to the maggie questions I am not going to pretend like I have the knowledge to break down the differences etc but I do know that FunCool has one of the original 112 maggies that is matching and probably outperforming basically anything the 122, or TVS 1900 and 2300 is doing. It made me ask the question of why spend the money on the new technology if the original technology is doing the same job? Mind you FunCool has done mods, runs a 402 etc but at the end of the day his powertrain has been doing for many years now what everyone said was impossible to do with the 112. If you PM you I am sure he would be happy to help provide what he has done.

Good luck in your search.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I think Centris are great, but info I gathered from previous posts suggests that having an air/air intercooler in front of the radiator will cause high coolant temps on track days (I know guys have done it succesfully before, which is why a Centri isn't out of the question). I think the air/water intercooling of a PD will give me flexibility in this area. I could run multiple heat exchangers, mount them in a place that doesn't obstruct the radiator, give them thier own fans, run the coolant through a fuel cooling can packed with ice for track days, ect.
As you can see, I'm really just brainstorming. I like to run my ideas by people with experience, for the "did you ever think of this..." effect. I know NA is the best option for the track, but I'm looking for a compromise. Big cube, high HP NA engines usually don't get very good gas mileage, and have poor drivability.
I wont know until I drive one, but I feel like the characteristics of a PD will suit me well on the street (which is where the car is used 99.5% of the time). I like having gobs of power at low RPM.
The purpose of this post is basically to determine which PD blower is best suited for my purposes (stock cubes, able to make 600-650ish). I've seen Funcool's posts, his set-up is very impressive for a 112. I'm afraid that I might run into heat soak with a 112 on the track days. Maybe a 122 or TVS would make the desired HP levels without generating as much heat?

 

I run a procharger with twin intercoolers that mount where the front brake ducts are now. I run low 180's while driving and never see more than high 190's in town while making in the low to mid 600rwhp range

 

I was wondering about the twin intercooler set-up. Seems like it would help because it doesn't ubstruct the radiator. Can you still run the front brake ducts with this set-up? The front brake ducts are a MUST as the front brakes are by far the weakest part of the car when on the track. Have you done any track days/HPDEs with this set-up? I wonder if it would work alright after 20 min sessions? I think this would be the same as the set-up EPP did:
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=54

 

No you cant run the stock brake ducts, but unless you have actual spindle ducts for your brakes I would worry about that as those stock brake ducts arent doing much.

 

I deffinately plan on getting some spindle ducts. Last time at the track I litterally melted my brake pads. They smeared on my rotors. Some Carbotechs and spindle ducts should help a little bit. Compared to FI stuff those will be relatively cheap though. With the extra power of a SC I'm gonna need wider tires, a clutch, taller rear-end gears, 8 rib pulleys, forged bottom end, upgraded fuel system, ect., ect., ect. Makes a guy go

 

I have an MP122 on my 6.0L (LQ4) half ton truck and a TVS2300 on my '08 LS3 vette. I might be able to help a bit. Do you have any specifec questions?

 

From what I've been able to find, the 122 and 2300 are both capable of over 650hp. I'm assuming the 2300 is more efficient because of the newer design, but think it will be easier to find a used 122 (for a better price) because the TVS's are still kinda new. Plus I like the casing design of the 122 better (I know that shouldn't be a factor in my decission, but...) I've hear that those two blowers aren't well suited for LS1/6 stock cubes though... Which Mag likes higher RPMs best?
Does anyone have a dyno charts that show Boost vs RPMs graphing?
I'm curious as to which of the Mags have "medium progressive" boost vs RPM progression (if that makes any sense at all ). I want something that will make good boost levels at higher RPMs without heat-soak issues (while still maintaining a healthy level of low RPM power). Wow! I'm picky...

 

I've had a 112 for 7 years now with no problems. I made 580rwh and 600rwt with 10lbs of boost. The problem is with 15lbs it only made 595rwh, but the TQ was 700rw. 122 is a better choise for making 650rwh. Remember the bigger the blower the longer it takes to make boost, so try to buy a blower that fits your build. good luck!!!!



My maggie makes 16lbs of boost from idle and holds to redline.

 

I was hoping you might chime in. While all that boost down low sounds like tire-smoking fun, It will probably be a little much for what I'm looking for. If the bigger blower (I'm thinking 122) makes boost a little later that might be just what I'm looking for. I'm thinking a set-up with more low-end than a Centri, but still pulls hard at higher RPMs would be just what I want. I know this can be accomplished by putting a restrictor plate on a Centri, but then I run into intercooler/radiator interference. I've heard lots of good things about the Kenne Bells, but I'm just not sure if I like that thing (maybe if it fit under the MCM hood, which I don't know if it does...).
FunCool, have you had trouble with high IATs after extended period of boost? I'm sure meth helps with this a lot.
Has anyone run a 122 on a LS1/6?

 

Power adders have not been real successful on autocross setups. If that is your goal then I'd go NA.

I run a 112 on a my LS1 with heads and cam at 10.9 compression and 6 psi of boost.

I initially tuned for about 525 rwhp then backed off a little because of the crazy hot here in Vegas. A couple more psi and 550 or so is easy.

For a 346 the 112 is a good size. If I did a 402 I'd step up to a 122.

I don't believe the TVS is available for the LS1/LS6 platform.

 

With your set-up like that (high comp., low boost) I feel like your power curve would favor the low RPMs. Am I correct in my thinking? Would lower comp., high boost favor the higher RPMs more? Thanks for the info!

LOL! I always get this responce about NA on the track. You are right 100% about NA being the optimal option for Track/Autocross. I only do two events a year though, and I drive this car every day (cept when the snow is too deep ) A big, rough idling, gas guzzling, NA motor just isn't what I'm looking for. I LOVE how this car gets 29mpg on the highway, and 19mpg around town. I don't see it getting anywhere close to that with a big jump in displacement. In order to get the same low-end HP that a PD has, I think a NA motor would have to be pretty big. I've changed my mind on this matter a few times, and I'll probably change it again... Right now I'm liking the PD.
What would be the effect of 122 on a smaller (346) cube motor? Less boost down low, more up top? If so, that's kinda what I'm going for (think halfway between PD and Centri). I could probably get the same effect by going stroker w/Centri (with the motor carrying the low end, and Centri taking over on the high RPM), but then I'm looking at more cubes to feed when I'm not on the go-pedal again.
Honestly I don't have very much experience with FI, so I'm just speculating, Which is why I've been posting in the FI section like a mad-man. If I can learn from guys that have done this and that, without going down the road spending money, then that's great!
Why doesn't the TVS work with LS1/6? Is it because the heads are different (cathedral vs rectangular)? Can a TVS be put on a 112/122 intake? This is the kind of info I was looking for in this post.
Thanks to everyone who had helped so far!

 

TVS works fine with LS2 motors. There are a few guys on the forum with TVS blown LS2's.

An mp122 would work fine with an LS2, but a TVS2300 would be better. Skip the TVS1900. Yes, you can bolt one up, but there isn't anything a 1900 will do that a 2300 won't do better. Not a lot of price difference between the two. I'd use an MP122 only if I could get it cheap. Really cheap.

 

Heads and intake are different on the LS2/3

Really not a big difference on a 112 or 122 and a 346.

The Maggies work well with higher comp motors. Just need a very good tune. Nice thing is with the 10.9 you get great power even when you are not in boost and when you hit the go pedal it is instant power.

This also helps get good power with lower boost which means you don't have to spin the blower as fast which in turn mean less heat build up and almost no noticeable power loss on back to back runs

As you can see from my Dyno it does not fall off and pulls hard all the way to redline.

 

bump

 

Thought I would send this to you. Hope this will help you out a little. Gary.



http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...all/index.html

 

Take a look at what we did with this C5, that we installed a blower on and was used on a track too.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=54 Bob

 

Thanks a bunch! That's a nice article. I thought the TVS wouldn't work with the LS1/6 because of the cylinder heads (I think because of the different intake port shape). They obviously used some aftermarket heads, maybe the heads they used use an "updated" intake port (that are shaped like LS2/3). I'll have to do some more research on that...