TTi-X A/C question
Were installing a TTi-X on a customers car, but the kit is used, and has been in boxes for quite some time.
I've got the A/C lines, but the lines were installed incorrectly on the compressor block, and I dont have the proper instructions to orient them.
I've been to TTi's site, and have seen Nicks post, but what im trying to find, is an actual unubstructed view of the a/c block itself, WITH both lines connected, and on the car, so I can see the way in which their installed.
Anyone got a good pic?
I do not have any schrader valves any lines, yet I see them in other threads.
Thoughts???
There has been a few different revisions along the way but the basic line layout is the same.
I can give you a call if you still need some guidance as those pics are not the best. I can also email you an install doc if you give me an email that will accept a pretty big file. I can prolly give you some shortcuts too :p
Last edited by highpockets; Dec 2, 2009 at 12:10 AM. Reason: added info.






The upper line with the 45 degree fitting at the compressor goes to the a/c dryer. Starter wire repositioning is key to getting a good fit here.
The lower line with the 90 degree fitting loops under the motor mount and goes to the condenser at the front of the car.
I'll look through some other files and see if I have anything else. You'll know when they are routed correctly because everything will fit just perfectly. Basically, the whole kit fits like a glove when everything is positioned just right.
Now that you've got Road Rebel in your court, I have no doubt that things will go smoothly.
The top line on mine, has a 90* angle, and not a 45*. It also has another 90* fitting that I am guessing needs to be installed on the compressor block, because the 90* line will not fit at all. Its at such an angle that it hits the motor mount.
The bottom line is the same as yours, but with a different crimped fitting. It doesnt have the bent tube, its just a 90* fitting.
Did you have to weld the schrader valve on the line at the dryer? The hose I have has no valve at all, and I dont see one in the multiple baggies worth of nuts/bolts..


The upper line with the 45 degree fitting at the compressor goes to the a/c dryer. Starter wire repositioning is key to getting a good fit here.
The lower line with the 90 degree fitting loops under the motor mount and goes to the condenser at the front of the car.
I'll look through some other files and see if I have anything else. You'll know when they are routed correctly because everything will fit just perfectly. Basically, the whole kit fits like a glove when everything is positioned just right.
Now that you've got Road Rebel in your court, I have no doubt that things will go smoothly.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





One option is to call TTI and ask them to send you a new line or lines. I'm not sure of the budget or time constraints for your project, but TTI is always willing to help out and make sure that their product works flawlessly. They helped me out, and I wasn't the original owner. I have bought other items from them, and will continue to do so in the future.
If we need to get something from TTi, or send it back, I will. The owner of this car has gone through he!! over the years, and just wants it perfect. He will understand about any delays.
This kit was from a local guy Les "Loboost". I think I remember this kit being for sale 2 or 3 years ago.
The guys at TTi are AWESOME!!! George and Nick saw this thread, looked us up, and called US!!

They wanted to make sure we were taken care of. I have never had a company actually take the time to call us when they saw something online.Needless to say, I guess we have an old weird setup, and they think we have some missing parts. So im sending everything I have back to them, so they can sort it out, and tell me what I need. From there, Ill pick it up, and re-install it.
TTI =
Best customer service hands down.







That is awesome and C5 Wolfe deserves that and especially since he has had some misfortune in the past - Hats off to you for taking the time and going the extra distance for his Vette and him
And a big
Thanks,Matt
Basically, since his car has been to a few different vendors, there are TONS of cut wires, melted looms, and modified parts. Mainly just fromt having different systems installed, then removed. I'm just going throught the ENTIRE thing, and fixing it all. This way it'll be back to square one again.
From what I see, there is nothing wrong with the kit, it just has a few missing parts. It doesnt even look like it was ever actually used before.
Were excited to get him his car back. Once we finish the corrections, we'll wrap up the car, and get it back out to him.
I posted a couple of pics for Mike to see. In one of the pics, you can see where whoever assembled the motor forgot to space the windage tray enough.. Thankfully, no damage was sustainedBoy does the TTi kit have a ton of parts.

That is awesome and C5 Wolfe deserves that and especially since he has had some misfortune in the past - Hats off to you for taking the time and going the extra distance for his Vette and him
And a big
Thanks,Matt
Last edited by Jeff @ TPE; Dec 7, 2009 at 05:24 PM.
A C6 pan will make your life a lot simpler down the road, just food for thought.
Also, if the motor is in the car and in the state the current pics are in. You can literally assemble the manifold,turbos,downpipes and oil feed lines and toss them in as a complete asm. Make sure the driverside inlet pipe is in place before you do it though :p.
Im still avail for some tech, you know the number
Last edited by RoadRebel; Dec 7, 2009 at 07:14 PM.
I will do that. Thanks for the heads up. I'm about to modify the pass side frame rail so I can slap everything in place.
On the last TT we did, the C6 pan was a life saver. I ordered one of those as soon as the car was delivered.
Plus, his C5 pan was already modified due to the last S/C he had, and was leaking really bad, so we had to buy a pan anyways.Buddy, your number is in speed dial..

A C6 pan will make your life a lot simpler down the road, just food for thought.
Also, if the motor is in the car and in the state the current pics are in. You can literally assemble the manifold,turbos,downpipes and oil feed lines and toss them in as a complete asm. Make sure the driverside inlet pipe is in place before you do it though :p.
Im still avail for some tech, you know the number
It mainly consists of a 3x3 bar across the top, with 2 large plates that sit on the frame rail right at the shock tower. It then uses 2 brackets that bolt into the front of the cylinder head. You run a chain from the top tube to the head. The most complicated part, is the plate that sits at the shock tower. Its bent in a way that not only sits ON the frame rail on each side if the shock tower, but it also presses against the SIDE of the rail.
I will take a pic if you want when im not using it.





You may already know this, but you will need to clearance the cradle on the passenger side as indicated in the install instructions. The bottom of the passenger side compressor housing will hit if you don't do this and the cradle won't seat against the frame rails properly.
In my case, I couldn't get the manifold bolted up, but since you have the cradle out, then it will be the other way around.
If you get a chance, I would love to see some pictures of the engine support fixture in action. I have a good idea of how the end plates work, but I would like to see how the brackets mount to the cylinder head.
I'm starting to think that I could have saved a lot of time with the cradle out of the way.







