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I dont know if this has been asked already, I have searched all over and I havent found the info I need. Anyway, I would like to know what set of heads are the best for turbos. I would like to be able to run a little more boost on the stock bottom for now (currently running .5bar 7.25psi) But I do plan on building a 383 stroker with forged internals when I have time. Im not looking for a set of budget heads but dont wanna go to big either. Ultimately, the heads would have to be good enough to run 14-15 psi. I appreciate any constructive advise anyone has.
I dont know if this has been asked already, I have searched all over and I havent found the info I need. Anyway, I would like to know what set of heads are the best for turbos. I would like to be able to run a little more boost on the stock bottom for now (currently running .5bar 7.25psi) But I do plan on building a 383 stroker with forged internals when I have time. Im not looking for a set of budget heads but dont wanna go to big either. Ultimately, the heads would have to be good enough to run 14-15 psi. I appreciate any constructive advise anyone has.
Whatever you get make sure they are SIX BOLT HEADS. I am running the World LS7X heads but might be a bit too large for a 383.
I am running AFR 225's with a D1sc at 15lbs on a 416" LS3 making 820rwhp SAE, 858rwhp actual @55F. I also made 805rwhp SAE with my 346", with the same heads
Don't worry about 6-bolt heads. You need a 6 bolt block to use them. They are reserved for rich Gorillas.
AFR's or Trick Flows will do you just fine. They have nice, thick decks. I ran 18psi on a stock casting Patriot head for 2 years and never pushed water.
The RHS Pro Elite head is also a 225cc head, with a MASSIVE .800" deck, and steel sleeves in the head bolt locations. They are known as having one of the thickest decks in the industry. They also have a .500" raised rail for shaft rockers. Their not the cheapest in the world, but they will handle 20+ psi all day long. Not to mention an excellent CNC program. The part number is 54225.
Then you cant go wrong with AFR's or TFS. They both work well. Just dont gowith a large bore head. Since your staying stock bore, you need to go with a head that will work, and not be a detriment.
I "Think" AFR makes a 3.905" 225, but im not sure. But a 205 will work great as well.
Yeah, you would be fine with a 72cc head on a stock bottom end. Thats no different than running a stock 317 or 035 head. Guys do it all the time.
Originally Posted by schnellTTZ06
Thanks for all the info! Those RHS heads look great but I dont really wanna spend over 2 grand on one head.
If I get a 72cc head, does anyone know if that will allow me to run 10psi relatively safely on the stock bottom?
I think about any after market head will be better than factory. As for which one who knows. I know a good set of after market heads is going to set you back around 2400 plus. My ETP's were around 2900.00
Blowers like exhaust flow, turbo's are the opposite. If you are on a budget, I would look into Dallas Performance ported LS3's, otherwise I would try a set of Performance Induction LS74.0's. Dallas Performance has several cars north of 1K to the wheels with LS3 heads and a Victor Jr. intake.
Just running LS6 Stage II heads with 77cc chambers (AFR Dual Valve Springs). Have used them with 3 different power adder setups. Made 1K hp with them no problem. Didn't pay thousands of $$ for them either...I think I spent $800 to have them done by WCCH.
Nothing fancy here. 6.0L truck heads worked over by WCCH. Spent under $1000. Car makes just north of 800 at the wheels...although I do get jealous when I see the dyno results of the 900 rwhp guys with their fancy AFRs...
Then you cant go wrong with AFR's or TFS. They both work well. Just dont gowith a large bore head. Since your staying stock bore, you need to go with a head that will work, and not be a detriment
OK I'll bite, what is the detriment to using a 4.0" bore head on a 3.905 block?
I remember GM manufacturing building big blocks that actually had the top of the cylinders notched for valve clearance.
While it may not be optimal for N/A is valve shrouding that critical for FI?