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The fuel pressure had dropped to 31 psi at 6K in full boost and AFR's spiked to 12.5 for no more than a second or 2 so I was lucky I wasn't doing a full through the gears fun run.
Checked the switch and it was burning hot to the touch cause its right next to valve cover over exhaust heat so im assuming that was the cause for it to stick because when I checked it this morning it was fine and BAP was working again after some test drives.
Now I do realize it might not have been the switch but all else checked out and figured if BAP itself failed it would stay failed and it fuel pump failed it wouldn't be at full pressure today in boost so im betting on the switch itself. Hopefully it was the switch!
This morning I wrapped the switch in heat wrap until I can move it out of the engine compartment. Im also going to hook up a light for BAP switch so I know its working when in boost from now on. Took a long drive and all seems to be fine with switch/pressure in boost but Im gonna order another one just in case it got heat damaged and maybe wire both of them up one for backup just in case.
Could have easily blown the engine if I hadnt noticed in the log afterwards fuel pressure went south.
Last edited by Z06supercharged; Feb 13, 2010 at 02:39 PM.
Now I do realize it might not have been the switch but all else checked out and figured if BAP itself failed it would stay failed and it fuel pump failed it wouldn't be at full pressure today in boost so im betting on the switch itself. Hopefully it was the switch!
Fuel pump output can vary with fuel and pump temperature. If it's fine cold, check it after an hour or two of driving.
It was 50 degrees out when this happened last night and I had only been driving around (on the freeway) for about 25 minutes.
Not really sure at this point what caused it so im watching fuel pressure gauge much more now at WOT.
Usually if the BAP fails, the car won't start at all.... I don't know why the switch would be so hot though...
The switch was plumbed right off the brake booster hose which is right over the exhaust manifold area. It had a 2" vacuum hose with the switch so that was the problem I think it was way too close to radiant heat area. I had noticed before how hot the switch was after driving but never moved it. Today I moved the switch down into the side fender vent area where its nice and cool.
I was just out for the last hour beating pretty hard on it in boost and all is fine, so im pretty sure that was it.
I also had wondered if BAP failed if that would cause whole fuel system to shut down or if it had a bypass in the BAP if it failed where main fuel pump would still work.
You guys carry switches separately from the BAP kit?
are you referring to the Hobbs switch that activates the BAP? if so I don't see how this switch failing would cause the car not to start.
you must have been logging the car to catch this. Inn HPtuners you could set up an alarm if the pressure drops below a setpoint. I have my meth and fuel pressure set up this way. I did this after losing my meth at the track.
are you referring to the Hobbs switch that activates the BAP? if so I don't see how this switch failing would cause the car not to start.
you must have been logging the car to catch this. Inn HPtuners you could set up an alarm if the pressure drops below a setpoint. I have my meth and fuel pressure set up this way. I did this after losing my meth at the track.
Yes I was logging. Every time im out in the car I log. Logging has actually saved me fro ma couple tickets from cops who just wanted to nail me for things I wasnt doing and was able to show them the log and telling them ill bring it in to court to prove I wasnt doing what they said I was speed wise.
I think Steve was referring to the actual BAP failing and crippling the fuel pump itself or power ro fuel pump as the BAP is between the cars fuel pump system stock harness.
Where in HPTuners can you set a specific set point to have an "alarm" go off?
Last edited by Z06supercharged; Feb 14, 2010 at 10:57 AM.
The switch was plumbed right off the brake booster hose which is right over the exhaust manifold area. It had a 2" vacuum hose with the switch so that was the problem I think it was way too close to radiant heat area. I had noticed before how hot the switch was after driving but never moved it. Today I moved the switch down into the side fender vent area where its nice and cool.
I was just out for the last hour beating pretty hard on it in boost and all is fine, so im pretty sure that was it.
I also had wondered if BAP failed if that would cause whole fuel system to shut down or if it had a bypass in the BAP if it failed where main fuel pump would still work.
You guys carry switches separately from the BAP kit?
We do have switches seperate from the ones that come in the BAP...
We do have switches seperate from the ones that come in the BAP...
Steve,
The Hobbs switch that is supplied with your 03+ fuel system, is it adjustable??
Right before I parked the car the switch was no longer activating at 4-6psi but rather around 10psi. I think I remember seeing/reading that it was an adjustable Hobbs. In either case, we straight wired the Bosch pump to work upon start-up to ensure the pump was still working; and it was.
Worst case scenario a guy has to go and get a new Hobbs switch. I also like the idea of wiring in a WOT switch parallel to it so that pump is 100% guaranteed to come on...
The Hobbs switch that is supplied with your 03+ fuel system, is it adjustable??
Right before I parked the car the switch was no longer activating at 4-6psi but rather around 10psi. I think I remember seeing/reading that it was an adjustable Hobbs. In either case, we straight wired the Bosch pump to work upon start-up to ensure the pump was still working; and it was.
Worst case scenario a guy has to go and get a new Hobbs switch. I also like the idea of wiring in a WOT switch parallel to it so that pump is 100% guaranteed to come on...
The Hobbs switch in the fuel system is adjustable. The one we use mostly is the 4-6, set at 5 factory. Although we adjusted one of these up to 8 or 9.
So is there a chance that my adjustable swith just got loose and is now activating at 9psi?? Or should I just grab a new switch?
Do you have the hobbs switch with the metripak connector? If so, I doubt it got loose, I would get a new one. If you have the old kind with the "sprinkler head" for adjusting, make sure that is properly set.
Do you have the hobbs switch with the metripak connector? If so, I doubt it got loose, I would get a new one. If you have the old kind with the "sprinkler head" for adjusting, make sure that is properly set.
Its the metri pack connector on the switch that I have.
They look to be reasonably inexpensive so I'll just grab another to be safe.
I have been having an issue lately. I am currently working on a something else, but when that little job is completed, I will be focusing on what is causing my fuel pressure to drop. My hobbs switches for the pump and BAP are in the driver side fender well with the Alky pump, away from the heat. I am considering just paralleling the switches to their respective outputs for safety. Either that or a WOT switch as a backup as previously mentioned.