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Nitrous first time install?

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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 09:52 PM
  #1  
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Default Nitrous first time install?

I recently bought:

Nitrous Express NX Stage 1 wet Kit
Nitrous Express Gen X-2 Accessory Package
Nitrous Daves Brand X 10lb Bottle
MSD RPM Window Switch

What do i need so I can run a 100 shot safely. I have a good size cam, CF DF Clutch, and other mods.

Should i scrap the MSD and buy micro edge all in one controller.

I have a LC1 I just have to install a gauge. Do I run a FP gauge as well.

I will be running this at the track once in a blue moon so i dont want to sacrifice my daily power for that ocassional shot!

I will have ED @ VA speed dyno tune me in safe at wot.

Thanks!

Mario
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 06:35 AM
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Mario, you also need a way to pull timing when the nitrous is activated. The lpe 2 step also has a timing controler that when you turn on your nitrous switch it will activate the timing retard. Since super tuner ed hutchings is tuning it I would be asking him what way he wants to do it, if he is tuning in efi live there is an option for a custom os that will allow you to do the same thing. What ever you choose your in good hands with VA SPEED
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 07:39 AM
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Yeah Good people over there at VA speed.

I want to install it myself to learn/save cash and because I know i can.

I've seen some wiring schematics but nothing for my exact setup.

I want first gear lock out and a dedicated tune for when the juice is hit.

I think I just need a fjo or microedge controller to run with my msd and the dyno tune a/f safety shut down to run thru my lc1.

I really just need confirmation and a schematic!

Thanks

Mario

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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 07:53 AM
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One of our supporting vendors, Robert56, was nice enough to make some really nice schematics and tutorials. http://robertsnitrousservice.com/
One thing schematics don't tell you is how to make connections and how important they are. Do not use Scotch locks. Solder is best. If you crimp, do not use the cheesy (typically orange handled) crimping tool with the oval crimp. Use the professional crimpers like this one.

.

Make good ground connections to shiny metal on a known good ground and use star washers. Use good Tyco relays and a good power source from either the battery or back of the alternator for the highest voltage. Do not tap the battery or alternator without using a fuse link within a few inches of your connetion to the power source.

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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 10:05 AM
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its not hard to install nitrous....
couple of hints/tips....
1... bottle fits nice in the rear center compartment (even with remote bottle opener)
2... there is a large grommet in the passenger side footwell (it will put your nitrous line right under the battery)
3... REMOVE the schraeder (sp?) valve on the fuel rail, dont just loosen it.

Hope this helps
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 02:53 PM
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Visit
http://robertsnitrousservice.com/
great site with pic's for setup and wiring.
I think the microedge will work for your application as it has all the features you would want. You would not need the MSD window switch as the microedge has one & you can get an A/F ratio through the unit since you have the LC1 set up already. It also has a TPS switch in the unit. A bottle heater will be needed or even better is the Nano setup.
I'm not sure what the accessory kit contains but for safety a FPSS, Lean cut off (also in microedge),and a nitrous filter would be good investments. Upgraded Fuel pump such as an LPE would be wise if your unit is old.
Timing pull for nitrous only would require a unit such as the LNC-002, Timing tuner, or timing twister. The LNC-002 hooks up to your coil pack harness for an easy install. The timing tuner needs to plug into the crank sensor which is hidden above your starter. The timing twister I have no knowledge about .
Did you go with a plate kit?
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dogboy
Did you go with a plate kit?

The kit has plates. I will run the micro edge + and look into those timing pullers as I don't want to run around with my timing pulled for the occasional shot!

Also thanks for all those tidbits of sound info. I will take all those points into my install.

Im going to mount my bottle on the shelf behind the passenger seat since i have a sub/amp setup in the large cubby.

Does anyone know if i can drill into that plastic to run my blowdown tube?????????

Thanks

Mario
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mariofromnewyork
the kit has plates. I will run the micro edge + and look into those timing pullers as i don't want to run around with my timing pulled for the occasional shot!

Also thanks for all those tidbits of sound info. I will take all those points into my install.

Im going to mount my bottle on the shelf behind the passenger seat since i have a sub/amp setup in the large cubby.

does anyone know if i can drill into that plastic to run my blowdown tube?????????


thanks

mario
Don't do it, fuel tank is there!!!!!
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitrous Bob
Don't do it, fuel tank is there!!!!!
What do you suggest?

Running a line to the one of the small cubbys and drilling a hole their?

Thanks in Advance

Mario
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Old Feb 18, 2010 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mariofromnewyork
What do you suggest?

Running a line to the one of the small cubbys and drilling a hole their?

Thanks in Advance

Mario
I have mine in the center storage area where your stereo equipment is.

You can mount it on the deck but it needs to be (roughly) 8" - 10" back from the edge since you have the fuel tanks on each side and the crossover hose that runs between them.
I don't have the schematic to show the position of the tanks and crossover hose.

This is where mine was ORIGINALLY mounted. It cleared the crossover hose but I didn't like it there.


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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 09:36 AM
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^ thats where mine is. BE carefule drilling down. All kinds of stuff you can mess up if you get to wild, lol. We messed up the brake lines on my boys c6, yeah we were ina hurry trying to get it in like some retards.

tip 2) dry test it. turn the switch to the power side and hit the gas. your running a micro switch so with the car off you should hear the fuel/nitrous solenoid kit on. the what i did was crack the bottle open a bit then close it, repreat andmake sure it releases into the mani. Youll hear it. Obviously give it a while before firing the car up to avoid a back fire but thsi is the way i tested mine before going out and making a pass with alot of juice thats not operating properly.
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 02:31 AM
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We did a install for Vette magazine about a year ago and we used a threaded insert tool to bolt the bottle brackets down. This tool basically acts like a pop ribbet gun and instead of pop ribbets its installs threaded inserts. After doing this I got to wondering what if the car were to be wrecked and smacked real hard. There is no way that that fiber glass floor was going to offer alot of holding support.

Now all the installs we do have a aluminum plate designed for the car that apoxys under the carpet to the fiberglass floor. We designed the plates to use removable studs incase the nitrous systems needs to be removed later. The plate would just stay neatly hidden under the carpet.

I honestly do not know what long term results would be as far as how its stays apoxied but I do know that using the right apoxy good luck pulling it up after it drys.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tirecraft
.... you also need a way to pull timing when the nitrous is activated.
Newbie here. That is interesting as guys here that use nitrous and one company rep told me that it is safe to go up to a 125 shot (crank) without pulling timing. I just bought a TNT setup from a Forum member and the jets skip from 100 to 150 (rear wheel).

100 safe with the TNT on a LS1, automatic? Very occasional use.

Thanx

Last edited by RoadReady; Mar 5, 2010 at 04:01 PM.
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