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Not sure if its factory giving me the toruble or the KB BAP.
While driving the car tries to shut down ( any driving condition ) hard like a nasssssssty miss. This is very random. I spike lean and the fuel psi ive seen drop as low as 30. It only does it for a sec then normal the some times a few times then normal.
Have no way to test the system at the present, not near any tools. Any one else suffer a similar problem??
Not sure how you BAP is wired. If you have a racetronix harness you should easily be able to bypass the BAP and harness. I'd try that first since it should be easy.
Its in the rear wheel well area like most I have seen. I hope tomorrow to get the wheel off so I can get to it. I will bypass it to the stock pump wiring and see if it does it again.
Mine did this under boost a few weeks ago. Dropped to 25 psi. Fuses were fine on BAP so I think the Hobbs pressure switch stuck on me cause it was so hot as it was mounted right over exhaust manifolds and had radiant heat hitting it. It was so hot I couldnt even touch the switch. I tested switch afterwards at it worked fine then I moved switch to fender well and hasnt happened since. Never sure what caused it.
I hate the BAP being in the rear fender well cause you cant access it quickly if need be but to connect into Racetronix harness its the easiest way.
Last edited by Z06supercharged; Mar 2, 2010 at 09:24 PM.
My fuel pressure was falling down and it was a blown 20a fuse on the BAP. I changed it, verified the wiring was clean, tested it for a while and put it back together. Couldn't get it to act up again.
I would loose the BAP. They are nothing but trouble. Go with a better pump.
Ive had 3 different aftermarket pumps (with no BAP) and they all failed eventually within 2-3K miles on each of them and left me stranded as they just wouldnt work correctly with the rest of my FFS type fuel system.
The BAP on a stock pump has been the most reliable by far (8K now) and when BAP failed momentarily with a stuck pressure switch at least it didnt leave me stranded in non boost.
I am now installing a external secondary fuel system for boost with no BAP but keeping the stock C6Z fuel pump.
Last edited by Z06supercharged; Mar 3, 2010 at 10:03 AM.
Ive had 3 different aftermarket pumps (with no BAP) and they all failed eventually within 2-3K miles on each of them and left me stranded as they just wouldnt work correctly with the rest of my FFS type fuel system.
The BAP on a stock pump has been the most reliable by far (8K now) and when BAP failed momentarily with a stuck pressure switch at least it didnt leave me stranded in non boost.
I am now installing a external secondary fuel system for boost with no BAP but keeping the stock C6Z fuel pump.
There are chinese knockoffs of the walbro pumps being sold out there. There is a decent chance you ended up with one or two.
- Use a Racetronix harness to install your BAP. This will guarantee the BAP gets enough power to do its job. The factory wiring is inadequate.
- Use a quality 25A fuse in your Racetronix harness when running a BAP. Many cheap fuses arc or don't blow at their rated current. Littlefuse is the brand of choice.
- Install the BAP in a cool location. This is why the RX harness has it located in the D/S wheel well vs. the engine compartment.
- Do not exceed the recommended load rating of your BAP.
- Set your BAP so that it only boosts the voltage under WOT. The voltage should be apx. 13V under normal driving conditions and 17-18 under WOT.
- Make sure you have good grounds and all your connections are weatherproof.
- Use a Racetronix harness to install your BAP. This will guarantee the BAP gets enough power to do its job. The factory wiring is inadequate.
- Use a quality 25A fuse in your Racetronix harness when running a BAP. Many cheap fuses arc or don't blow at their rated current. Littlefuse is the brand of choice. DONE
- Install the BAP in a cool location. This is why the RX harness has it located in the D/S wheel well vs. the engine compartment. DONE
- Do not exceed the recommended load rating of your BAP. DONE
- Set your BAP so that it only boosts the voltage under WOT. The voltage should be apx. 13V under normal driving conditions and 17-18 under WOT. set to activate @ 8#
- Make sure you have good grounds and all your connections are weatherproof. DONE
Disconnected the BAP and the car is running fine for now. Will wait for a few days before I rule on the BAP. Currently it is looking like it is bad. Blew a fuse last month and this month doing this. Hopefully this will end the problem.
Disconnected the BAP and the car is running fine for now. Will wait for a few days before I rule on the BAP. Currently it is looking like it is bad. Blew a fuse last month and this month doing this. Hopefully this will end the problem.
Thanks for all the replies.
Don't rule out a bad harness. That could also be the problem.
Well it hiccuped once today on stock form. Will give it another day or so to rule that out. I have my VE table pretty fat right now so I might lean it out a tad and see what go's on. Cant see that being an issue considering fuel PSI is being lost at random intervals but it cant hurt to get it closer.