Broken Belt = Broken Block??
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From: Wappingers Falls New York
Broken Belt = Broken Block??
I was going out for a drive on Friday night as usual. I start to get on it in 2nd and hear a pop, I look behind me and see tons of smoke so I immediately kill the car. Initially I thought a rod had gone through the block, however, that certainly was not what happened.
When I jacked it up the next day I noticed the belt was broken but the main source of trouble was that the oil feed for the supercharger had been broken straight out of the block (essentially ripped out). My theory is that the belt broke and due to the force of the belt hitting the oil feed line it ripped it straight out of the block.
It's an ECS kit where the oil feed is in the front of the block right next to the crank pulley. Does anyone else think this theory is valid? If it is be careful that your belt doesn't break and take out the oil feed.
Oh, I also inspected the belt and there was virtually no sign of cracks or anything else except in one spot. Other then it looked fine.
When I jacked it up the next day I noticed the belt was broken but the main source of trouble was that the oil feed for the supercharger had been broken straight out of the block (essentially ripped out). My theory is that the belt broke and due to the force of the belt hitting the oil feed line it ripped it straight out of the block.
It's an ECS kit where the oil feed is in the front of the block right next to the crank pulley. Does anyone else think this theory is valid? If it is be careful that your belt doesn't break and take out the oil feed.
Oh, I also inspected the belt and there was virtually no sign of cracks or anything else except in one spot. Other then it looked fine.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Forney Texas
Sounds more like you're talking about the drain line instead of the oil feed line. You sure that line isn't going to the pan? Did you follow it all the way from the blower to the block? The feed line should be on the side of the block and higher. Take another look and hopefully you'll just be needing your oil pan restored. 
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From: Wappingers Falls New York
Sounds more like you're talking about the drain line instead of the oil feed line. You sure that line isn't going to the pan? Did you follow it all the way from the blower to the block? The feed line should be on the side of the block and higher. Take another look and hopefully you'll just be needing your oil pan restored.
The line I saw is the thicker of the two lines which is why I thought it was the feed. It's really tough to see because of what I think is the sub-frame, is in the way. You essentially have to feel around for the hole but it's only a few inches away from the crank pulley in the front of the engine.
I was keeping my fingers crossed it was the pan but from what I felt it appears to be the block. I'm really hoping you're right.
Last edited by Deception; Apr 25, 2010 at 06:02 PM.
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From: Wappingers Falls New York
I just took another look at the install instructions on the site and I think you guys are right that it's just the pan. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Bella Vista Ca
If you shut the car down right away, the only issue could be that the oil pan might have been crack by the impact of the belt hitting the line. You might get lucky and just have to replace the line and belt and be back on the road. Take a good look at where the fitting goes into the oil pan. You can see the area from under the car.
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Forney Texas
This is the reason I made a shield over my line. When a broken belt hits it, is is a violent event. You got the drain line for sure.
You'll be fine. May have to pull the pan, weld it up and put it back on but you won't be buying a motor unless you ran the pan dry for a while.
I did a writeup a long time ago where I put in a quick disconnect on the line, used braided line and made a shield over the line where it is close to the crank. It will never happen to me again.
You'll be fine. May have to pull the pan, weld it up and put it back on but you won't be buying a motor unless you ran the pan dry for a while.
I did a writeup a long time ago where I put in a quick disconnect on the line, used braided line and made a shield over the line where it is close to the crank. It will never happen to me again.
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From: Wappingers Falls New York
This is the reason I made a shield over my line. When a broken belt hits it, is is a violent event. You got the drain line for sure.
You'll be fine. May have to pull the pan, weld it up and put it back on but you won't be buying a motor unless you ran the pan dry for a while.
I did a writeup a long time ago where I put in a quick disconnect on the line, used braided line and made a shield over the line where it is close to the crank. It will never happen to me again.
You'll be fine. May have to pull the pan, weld it up and put it back on but you won't be buying a motor unless you ran the pan dry for a while.
I did a writeup a long time ago where I put in a quick disconnect on the line, used braided line and made a shield over the line where it is close to the crank. It will never happen to me again.
If you shut the car down right away, the only issue could be that the oil pan might have been crack by the impact of the belt hitting the line. You might get lucky and just have to replace the line and belt and be back on the road. Take a good look at where the fitting goes into the oil pan. You can see the area from under the car.
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Tech Contributor
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From: Forney Texas
Send a PM to highpockets
I saw that he had a complete one that he's willing to sell in a recent thread.
If you want, you can send me your old one and I'll see what it'll take to weld up. Shouldn't cost you much at all. If you care to pursue that option, let me know.
I saw that he had a complete one that he's willing to sell in a recent thread.
If you want, you can send me your old one and I'll see what it'll take to weld up. Shouldn't cost you much at all. If you care to pursue that option, let me know.
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From: Wappingers Falls New York
Send a PM to highpockets
I saw that he had a complete one that he's willing to sell in a recent thread.
If you want, you can send me your old one and I'll see what it'll take to weld up. Shouldn't cost you much at all. If you care to pursue that option, let me know.
I saw that he had a complete one that he's willing to sell in a recent thread.
If you want, you can send me your old one and I'll see what it'll take to weld up. Shouldn't cost you much at all. If you care to pursue that option, let me know.
Will do and I'm definitely putting some kind of guard on it. That was a hell of an experience that I don't want to have happen again.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,314
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From: Simi Valley CA
Been there done that. Some exact thing happened to me last year only I was at the dragstrip and oiled down the track
That was not fun at all.
Luckily everything checked out okay and I just needed the fitting welded to the pan. Good luck.
That was not fun at all. Luckily everything checked out okay and I just needed the fitting welded to the pan. Good luck.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 265
Likes: 5
This is one of my reasons for going with a sealed head unit, and the fact that if the supercharger bearings go south they don't deposit the metal filings into the oil pan and take out anything else. Good luck with the repair I'm sure ECS has everything you need.
Last edited by Bulldogger; Apr 26, 2010 at 11:11 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,887
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From: Macomb MI
St. Jude Contributor
I had the identical thing happen to me last year? Belt let go and rip out the return line, I thought I had toasted the motor. We tried mending the oil pan, but couldn't because of the way it broke. Had to replace the oil pan and this time my tuner ( Dr Phil ) had the line coming out of the side of the pan and not the front where it may happen again.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,353
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From: Bella Vista Ca
Changing the oil pan isn't to bad to do. I had to lower the front cradle on the mounting bolts to get the clearance to get the pan on. That did require me to use an engine hoist to hold the engine up as I dropped the cradle. On second thought, it was a little bit of a PITA. 
Anyone have a pic of the guard they have installed?
Anyone have a pic of the guard they have installed?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 8,629
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From: York PA
Here's mine. It's a 2" round 5" long piece of aluminum tubing with an angle attached.
It has to be slid over all the lines first, then attach the lines.
Slide the guard over the top of the cradle in a 10 o'clock position and install it in the 6 o'clock position.
It has to be slid over all the lines first, then attach the lines.
Slide the guard over the top of the cradle in a 10 o'clock position and install it in the 6 o'clock position.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,353
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From: Bella Vista Ca
I'm suprised I've never seen one of these offered by a vendor. You would think it would be a big seller.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Wappingers Falls New York
Changing the oil pan isn't to bad to do. I had to lower the front cradle on the mounting bolts to get the clearance to get the pan on. That did require me to use an engine hoist to hold the engine up as I dropped the cradle. On second thought, it was a little bit of a PITA.
Anyone have a pic of the guard they have installed?
Anyone have a pic of the guard they have installed?
I don't have the hoist so I would've had to rent that plus my time it just wasn't worth it.
They'll be picking up the car on Thursday. 5 hours labor plus welding the shield on, and they think they have an extra pan laying around which they'll give me for free.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 8,629
Likes: 16
From: York PA
I had a local mom & pop weld shop made it up for me. I couldn't guarantee that a mass production of these would fit every car. The design is pretty versatile and the guard will bend a little for the proper angle, but no guarantees.