Overheating Problem
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 663
Likes: 0
From: Show me lower taxes Missouri
Overheating Problem
I'm sure this has been covered more than a couple of times. I just recently finished up my forged 402 w/ECS S/C'r 8 rib yada, yada.
I'm running around 220 degrees F and when I turned on the A/C I shut it off today when it got to almost 230F. I have not messed with moving the air dam (rubber scoop in front of the radiator under the car) at all.
Any suggestions on cooling this thing down before looking at a larger radiator or moving to Alaska?
It was around 95 degrees here in St. Louis today but that is normal for the summer months and I can't live driving the car like this. I'm running 20-50 oil in the car and have good oil pressure at these temps as well. Engine has been properly heat cycled the rings are seated and the whole set-up is solid with no issues other than this heating issue. The new set-up only has around 500 miles on it.
Any help sure would be appreciated.
I'm running around 220 degrees F and when I turned on the A/C I shut it off today when it got to almost 230F. I have not messed with moving the air dam (rubber scoop in front of the radiator under the car) at all.
Any suggestions on cooling this thing down before looking at a larger radiator or moving to Alaska?
It was around 95 degrees here in St. Louis today but that is normal for the summer months and I can't live driving the car like this. I'm running 20-50 oil in the car and have good oil pressure at these temps as well. Engine has been properly heat cycled the rings are seated and the whole set-up is solid with no issues other than this heating issue. The new set-up only has around 500 miles on it.
Any help sure would be appreciated.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 8,629
Likes: 16
From: York PA
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 62
From: Middletown DE
my car does the same thing.....
I actually have the headunit off the car at the moment, but still have the IC in place, etc. Just have a filter on the piping before going through the IC.
Anyway - with the A/C on, i saw a max of ~220 without the headunit on the car and AC blastin. Usually with the Headunit on the car, i see temps up near 235 and i usually shut the ac off until it goes down a bit. I have tried opening up the front bumper area and really did not see any difference. I guess those crusing IAT temps with the headunit installed really make a difference with the heat transfer of the condenser.
i think the only way to really resolve this issue is to go with a larger radiator... or have some sort of aqua mist system hit the radiator when at higher temps
This mod has been on my list for a few years now - just never seem to get around to doing it - that and i guess i dont trash on the car when it is 90+ outside, so really doesnt bother me enough.
I actually have the headunit off the car at the moment, but still have the IC in place, etc. Just have a filter on the piping before going through the IC.
Anyway - with the A/C on, i saw a max of ~220 without the headunit on the car and AC blastin. Usually with the Headunit on the car, i see temps up near 235 and i usually shut the ac off until it goes down a bit. I have tried opening up the front bumper area and really did not see any difference. I guess those crusing IAT temps with the headunit installed really make a difference with the heat transfer of the condenser.
i think the only way to really resolve this issue is to go with a larger radiator... or have some sort of aqua mist system hit the radiator when at higher temps
This mod has been on my list for a few years now - just never seem to get around to doing it - that and i guess i dont trash on the car when it is 90+ outside, so really doesnt bother me enough.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,002
Likes: 216
From: Houston Texas
2018 Corvette of Year Finalist
2017 C5 of Year Finalist
I know this is very basic, but what temperature thermostat are you running and have your fans been reprogrammed to turn on sooner (lower temperatures)?
The other thing to look at is the area between the radiator and a/c condenser. The last time I cleaned this area, I pulled out a few hand fulls of grass and straw. If your radiator cooling fins are plugged with road debris, then it won't operate efficiently.
If you still have trouble after checking the above items, I have heard where some people have better success going with dewitt's fan assembly instead of the radiator.
The other thing to look at is the area between the radiator and a/c condenser. The last time I cleaned this area, I pulled out a few hand fulls of grass and straw. If your radiator cooling fins are plugged with road debris, then it won't operate efficiently.
If you still have trouble after checking the above items, I have heard where some people have better success going with dewitt's fan assembly instead of the radiator.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,932
Likes: 8
From: Hayward California
Other fundamentals things...
shroud and confirm you have no air pockets
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 29,063
Likes: 1,839
From: cookeville tennessee
This is going to be the only way to get it to where it is safe for you. may want to look at aftermaket fans also. You will be giving money away on any other way. Just bit the bullet the factory one is junk with the F/I units on the vettes.
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Pro
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 638
Likes: 23
From: St. Johns Fl
my car does the same thing.....
Anyway - with the A/C on, i saw a max of ~220 without the headunit on the car and AC blastin. Usually with the Headunit on the car, i see temps up near 235 and i usually shut the ac off until it goes down a bit. I have tried opening up the front bumper area and really did not see any difference. I guess those crusing IAT temps with the headunit installed really make a difference with the heat transfer of the condenser.
Anyway - with the A/C on, i saw a max of ~220 without the headunit on the car and AC blastin. Usually with the Headunit on the car, i see temps up near 235 and i usually shut the ac off until it goes down a bit. I have tried opening up the front bumper area and really did not see any difference. I guess those crusing IAT temps with the headunit installed really make a difference with the heat transfer of the condenser.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,594
Likes: 1
From: Md
I have same problem. I have a maggie here in Maryland. When 95 degrees plus my car runs very hot in traffic. 220-243. I turn off ac and it comes down into the 220's. I purchased a Dewitt's radiator with oil cooler. I am going to purchase a Meziere electric water pump also. After reading many forum posts I think the combination of the radiator, fan kit from Dewitt's, and the electric water pump...problem solved.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 638
Likes: 23
From: St. Johns Fl
Do you guys that are getting these temps also get water coming out of the radiator pressure cap? I have been seeing mine releasing pressure when I stop with 200+ temps and then the temps are 230+ when I get back in and start the car back up. They do come back down some after starting the engine back up and driving off. Hope this is staying on topic enough.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 8,629
Likes: 16
From: York PA
Do you guys that are getting these temps also get water coming out of the radiator pressure cap? I have been seeing mine releasing pressure when I stop with 200+ temps and then the temps are 230+ when I get back in and start the car back up. They do come back down some after starting the engine back up and driving off. Hope this is staying on topic enough.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,480
Likes: 62
From: Middletown DE
I assume he is saying after the car sits for a few minutes and he gets back in that the temps are the 230....
I havent noticed anything coming out of the cap... Wouldnt water coming out be a sign that your cap may need to be replaced?
I havent noticed anything coming out of the cap... Wouldnt water coming out be a sign that your cap may need to be replaced?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,197
Likes: 2
From: Niagara Falls NY
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I know this is very basic, but what temperature thermostat are you running and have your fans been reprogrammed to turn on sooner (lower temperatures)?
The other thing to look at is the area between the radiator and a/c condenser. The last time I cleaned this area, I pulled out a few hand fulls of grass and straw. If your radiator cooling fins are plugged with road debris, then it won't operate efficiently.
If you still have trouble after checking the above items, I have heard where some people have better success going with dewitt's fan assembly instead of the radiator.
The other thing to look at is the area between the radiator and a/c condenser. The last time I cleaned this area, I pulled out a few hand fulls of grass and straw. If your radiator cooling fins are plugged with road debris, then it won't operate efficiently.
If you still have trouble after checking the above items, I have heard where some people have better success going with dewitt's fan assembly instead of the radiator.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 638
Likes: 23
From: St. Johns Fl
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,083
Likes: 1,829
From: Metro Detroit Michigan
I've hit 230 in similar outdoor temperature conditions, in stop-and-go traffic with the air on, and didn't worry about it. Everything has been fine.
Going down the freeway with the same outdoor temperature, coolant temps never went over 200, even with a couple of third gear pulls. That's with an ECS supercharger setup, stock radiator. Like others have suggested, first make sure that anything with cooling fins near the front of the car is really clean. It's part of normal maintenance on these cars. Then check your fan settings, if the problem shows up when you're going slow.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,932
Likes: 8
From: Hayward California
100% water cools better compared to a coolant/water mix. Water and water wetter works great and some put a little bit of coolant in for it's lubrication.
One thing that's a must... get all the air pockets out. Air pockets create steam and will pressurize any setup (even one with a good pressure cap) quickly, leading to coolant being released. Coolant released and now you have less of it and that means more air pockets!
Seriously though... for driving in the street a clean system without obstruction to airflow, with no air pockets and proper shrouding will not need anything but coolant. Add all the cooling mods mentioned already, plus a bit not, and any setup can be made to run cool in the street (and track). Do every mod without the fundamentals and it'll never stay cool for very long.
Checkout the autocross section for all you could ever want to know on keeping these cars cool.
One thing that's a must... get all the air pockets out. Air pockets create steam and will pressurize any setup (even one with a good pressure cap) quickly, leading to coolant being released. Coolant released and now you have less of it and that means more air pockets!
Seriously though... for driving in the street a clean system without obstruction to airflow, with no air pockets and proper shrouding will not need anything but coolant. Add all the cooling mods mentioned already, plus a bit not, and any setup can be made to run cool in the street (and track). Do every mod without the fundamentals and it'll never stay cool for very long.
Checkout the autocross section for all you could ever want to know on keeping these cars cool.
Last edited by AVB; Jun 17, 2010 at 12:14 AM.