I am considering a nitrous system for a 2000 convertible. I'd like to hear suggestions from the experts on here for a system that would be both safe on the mechanicals and trouble free if their is such a thing. I am considering nitrous as opposed to H/C mods as the car is also driven by young ones in the family. Thanks for the input :D

 

Hey I am the first to post!

 

:eek:

 

Nitrous does many things, but only one of them is good! :D

 

nx express wet kit 100 hp setting with all the safety features you can get from them,great system, i just recentley had the same system installed on my 98 corvette convertiable, the kit and instalation was done by nate and the guys at xtreme in tempe arz. they did a triffic job and i am very satisfied, they can answer all your questions and are very fair. burt the rain man ps idrove all the way down there and back home her to richland wa,2800 niles round trip,well worth the drive. talk to nate or mike tell them burt said to givethem a call.

 

Why the 100 vs. the 150?

 

The two popular choices are either the TNT wet kit or the NX wet kit. There is also the NOS dry kit. There are a couple of small differencces between the wet and dry kit.
The wet kit uses a solenoid for the nitrous and a solenoid for the extra fuel required. A wet kit also sprays the fuel/nitrous mixutre right in front of the throttle body.
A dry kit does not use a fuel solenoid, it only uses the nitrous solenoid. The extra fuel is added by the pcm commanding the injectors to increase the amount. On a dry kit the nitrous is sprayed in front of the MAF. The MAF pickes up the increased flow and essentially tells the injectors to flow more fuel.
Some people prefer a wet kit while others prefer a dry kit. There really is no better kit, jujst many opinions about which is better, but no definative answer.

I run a TNT wet kit and have been very happy with it.
The things you should utilize when getting a wet kit are:
NX bottle heater (much better than the TNT one)
MSD window switch - this safety unit allows to set a limit in which your nitrous goes on and off. Most people set it to come on above 3000rpm and off around 5800-6000 on a stock internal engine.
TPS switch - this safety/activation switch only allows the nitrous to come on if you have an open throttle. This switch reads the throttle position angle on your TAC and will only activate the nitrous if above 90% or so (it is adjustable). If you only used a microswitch(a lil switch mounted behind the pedal, so when the pedal is fully pressed it activated the nitrous) to activate the nitrous and left the traction control ON you would have the microswitch telling the nitrous to flow, but the pcm would "see" the spin and command the throttle body to start closing, hence cutting fuel, but you would still be shooting nitrous. So you would flow nitrous and hardly any fuel and that adds up to an extreme lean and BOOM.
Master arm switch in the ash tray is the popular place. NX sells a nice clean, almost factory looking switch.
Optional:
purge system
remote bottle opener
in car nitrous pressure gauge

You need to change plugs to TR6 if you plan on spraying alot. You CAN run TR55 gapped around .045-.050 and be fine for limited spray and limited to a 100 shot. Most gap the TR6 between .038-.042 for regular nitrous use.
Also, you should ATAP your car prior to running nitrous to see if it is getting KR and to see your a/f levels.

 

Nitrous is nitrous. All the major manufactures of N20 kits perform the same. More N20 = more HP. Most of the kits even use the same manufacture for parts such as solenoids and just add their own stickers.
Most important part of any N20 kit, is the install.
If you are able, install N20 kit yourself. Kit install is not hard, just time consuming. Plus you have the advantage of knowing how your N20 kit works.
As posted by Intel add your safeties, and you should have a very safe N20 system.

 

I'm with Jetskifast. I strongly recommend to do your own install if you have the time and will to read & following instructions. It is not rocket science like a few have made to sound to be.

Several of us here are willing to help if you have any questions with the install.

:cheers:
-Tuan

 

Thanks for all of the input. I agree that whcichever direction I take the system should include all of the options that have been listed.

I really would like a bit of your thoughts on wet vs dry systems. It seems that the dray system would be a bit easier install and since Im leaning towards a 100 shot max system it may be more appropriate?

Once again thanks for the responses!

 

Hmmm my thoughts on a dry system. Well this is just my opinion and others will have differing ones. But ok here it goes :D

I believe the dry system to work somewhat better than a wet system for shots up to 100 shot. THe main reason for this is the ability of a dry system to work just fine under 1000psi. The dry system won't need the heater whereas the wet really needs to be at least 1000-1100 psi to give the full shot. HOWEVER, after a 100 shot I think the wet system takes over.
The wet system takes fuel from the rails and adds that to the mixture. IMO I believe that the lil bitsy wire in the wire cannot read the correct flow numbers with the nitrous cooling down the wire so rapidly. I also just do not want to rely on that lil wire to adjust my pulses on the injectors. I would rather take the fuel from the rails.
Now some people will tell you that having two noids can cause twice as many problems as the one noid dry system. The fear is that the fuel noid will not open and the nos noid will just spray away causing a massive lean. I just do not buy that argument, only because I have never seen it happen. I think there are many more things to be worried about than that. But it still is a valid argument.
Now if you want to spray more than 100 as most do after they try a 100 shot then wet is the way to go and then a combo of the two (dual stage, TOm Hall runs one very well). THe wet system can be run up to about a 200 shot before you start running out of fuel (time for a walbro pump then and bigger injectors). Right now I have custom billet fuel rails that run #10 in and #6 out and RC injectors sitting for install It also equalizes the pressure between banks. Alot of stockers run a lil lean on the right bank.

Both systems are very easy to install. THe only real consuming time is hooking up all the wires. I ground almost everything to my battery's top post, so it easy to take off (I just unscrew a wing nut). I also ran all but one of my power wires off the battery. The dry system would be just a touch easier since you don't have to wire up the second noid. Also, you would not need the NX heater. :cheers:

 

I've been running a NX wet kit (100 shot) since Novemeber of 1999 w/o any problems.

 

Wow, never seen anybody else with my dad's name. Konstantinos. Hmmmm, so your not greek huh? :lol:

 

I've had the NX system for a couple of years w/o problems. I do have all the bells and whistles which add safety. It's easy to remove the bottle when my son drives the car (which is not very often!). I couldn't do that with my Mustang with it's SC. Actually I only put the bottle in for the racing. It's not like I need nitrous to race a ricer at the stop light.

 

Crank and Chrome on Speed/TNT channel had an interesting nitrous install session on a 2000 Vette in one of their programs.
Here's the link:
http://www.crankandchrome.com/site/t...=223&PreID=223

It gives you a nice step-by-step instructions, you can add your extras (bottle warmer, remote opener, etc.) depending on how fancy you wanna get. I would do this myself, given i have a slow sunday afternoon and i want to be productive. Plus nothing feels better than a job well done yourself!