ARP Head studs too long
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,787
Likes: 22
From: Lititz PA
ARP Head studs too long
I figure since most of you guys are running high power, you will also be running ARP head studs.
Yesterday, I was down at a friend's house doing a H&C swap on my 2002 LS1. All was going well until we put the head on and realized that the ARP head studs were all 1/2" too long (PN 234-4316). About 1/2" of unthreaded stud was sticking through the head. The studs that I ordered are correct (according to ARP) for my 2002 block — they are different sizes, instead of 1 size like the 2004 block uses. Upon removing the studs, we found that they only went into the block 2-4 threads deep before locking up.
Has anyone else ever run into this issue before? I guess my next action will be to call ARP tomorrow, but I figure that they will think I'm crazy.
Thanks for any info
Yesterday, I was down at a friend's house doing a H&C swap on my 2002 LS1. All was going well until we put the head on and realized that the ARP head studs were all 1/2" too long (PN 234-4316). About 1/2" of unthreaded stud was sticking through the head. The studs that I ordered are correct (according to ARP) for my 2002 block — they are different sizes, instead of 1 size like the 2004 block uses. Upon removing the studs, we found that they only went into the block 2-4 threads deep before locking up.
Has anyone else ever run into this issue before? I guess my next action will be to call ARP tomorrow, but I figure that they will think I'm crazy.
Thanks for any info
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 19
From: Ottawa Ontario
I have run into this,it is very important to chase all the thread holes to get all the old GM thread sealer out.
ARP makes a long thread chaser specifically for this.
Then you need to blow out each hole.
Do not use a tap as it will weaken the treads.
Dom
ARP makes a long thread chaser specifically for this.
Then you need to blow out each hole.
Do not use a tap as it will weaken the treads.
Dom
