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Whereas you'll always get additonal info from other owners, what comes out of Johns mouth is the Turbo Bible IMO. Do whatever he says, nothing more nothing less.
Well, JL certainly is one of the more/most knowledgeable LS1/6 turbo minds around. He probably has similar recomendations to the ones that follow but in the interest in keeping everyone up to date here are a few turbo tips:
1) Upon startup do not rev the engine for several seconds to allow the oil pressure to rise in the turbo bearings. Turbos spool very quickly even under no load and revving could prematurely damage un-lubricated bearings.
2) Prior to shutdown, if you have been driving under boost, allow the engine to idle for 60 to 180 seconds. Under boost the turbos will be seeing 1200+ degree exhaust temps. Allowing the engine to idle circulates oil and water thru the bearing housing drawing heat out. It also has the relatively cooler, 600 degree exhaust flow, that actually helps cool things also (weird but true). This reduces the heat of the turbine side and reduces stress and potential oil coking.
3) Run synthetic oil. Synthetic oil has superior lubricating properties and tolerates the heat much better.
4) Listen to your engine. Note how it sounds and learn to recognize potential problems such as the sound of light detonation. Pump gas varies from good to junk and can be a problem. If you don't know what detonation sounds like you could do extensive damage to your engine. Generally it won't hurt the turbo(s) unless a spark plug electrode, piston piece, ring piece or part of a valve shoots out the exhaust port following catastophic engine failure. The 2 main engine killers are detonation and over revving.
5) Don't over rev you engine. With the massive power increase from turbocharging it is easy to over rev an engine that has had its limiter removed. Even with the limiter a missed full throttle shift can cause over revving. Make sure your clutch, shifter and skill is up to the task.
6) Don't become over confident. Even the most powerful cars seem to become slower and less exciting as we get used to driving them. When this happens it is easy to become over confident and loose respect for the vehicle. Trust me, a stock LS1 can get away from anyone that becomes careless. A 400+++hp car can and will drop kick a driver when it is least expected. Heck, I had my wimpy 260hp Lexus (with traction control) go full lock to lock one night as I was carelessly whipping it around a turn (dry cement roadway). I saved it but if another car was coming it would have been ugly. BE CAREFULL.
If you dont already have one go buy a turbo timer. HKS makes them. All it does is keep your engine running for a pre programed time (30-60sec or what you program in) when you take your key out, that way you cant forget to do it. They all work on all cars.
If you dont already have one go buy a turbo timer. HKS makes them. All it does is keep your engine running for a pre programed time (30-60sec or what you program in) when you take your key out, that way you cant forget to do it. They all work on all cars.
WOW!!! What a great idea. Does this Gizmo interfere with the car's Computer or vice Versa?
Gee, thats a good question. Never came to my mind 'cause I always leave it in neutral. But ya know, the more I think about it, the more I say "Aint no way I'm getting out of that car with it running." I'll stay in the car for another 60 secs during the times when I should.
I also asked LPE the same question and I was told nothing other than normal maint. I have a good friend that rebuillds and sells turbochargers. He tells me that the turbo's on our cars are some of the best made, and has only seen one failure in his dealings with them. I asked him the question about a turbo timer and he felt it wasn't necessary. He did say that if you were doing any sustained high rev running (road racing or possibly really hard street driving) that the car should idle until the oil temp returns to normal. He said the turbo's will "coke" the oil. Which I assume means turn it into a fine paste or powder.
You should also keep an eye on your turbo hoses, the tires have a tendency to rub them on full lock. The plastic intercooler housings and lower hoses that run through those are also subject to scraping, especially if your car is lowered.
I wonder why LPE reccommends Mobile I? I know it is a good oil, but it seems that Amsoil or Redline might be superior. I realize that this could be debated all day, but in some of the test I have seen they outperform Mobile I.
By the way, did you have your car tubbed when the turbo's were added?
Lanjet, coking is when the oil burns and turns to an abrasive tar type consistency. It deposits on the bearings and causes eventual failure. The cool down period coupled with good synthetic oil virtually eliminates the problem.
Regarding the turbo units themselves: they are the Garrett GTBB true dual ball bearing turbos. Most have the GTBB35's which support a little over 800fwhp for the pair. The larger GTBB37's are good for 900+ for the pair. LPE used to get his turbos and castings through Incon of Australia but I have heard that may have changed. Regardless, you are correct that these are state of the art turbochargers. :D
Let me know how in the hel- you get the K&N filters out to clean them. They are under the headlights incase you have not seen them yet. Looks like a fun project.
Did JL say something about turbo rebuild? How long does your turbos last before it needs servicing? Even the most efficient ball-bearing turbos need to be serviced at a set number of miles.
I have a TT Supra and a AWD Eclipse that I had the turbos checked at 50K miles. Im curious when does your LPE TT need such servicing.