Just wanted to make sure everyone is aware of a few things.

When you upgrade from a single nozzle to a dual nozzle system, you should get the high volume check valve (or make sure you already have it). It is the same size as the filter as opposed to the little one mounted at the nozzle. I have seen a few cars that have one nozzle with a check valve and one without and no large check valve. When you order the single nozzle system, you get the little valve. It doesn't flow nearly as well as the large one. Many of us are trying to push big power and need uninterrupted methanol flow to stay safe. This will help.

Here's a pic of both valves.



The other thing I've seen is the pumps mounted upside down. This is something I noticed Julio was doing on his early systems. It caused problems and the solution was to turn the pump over. If your pump head is on top, your pump should be flipped. You'll need a new feed line and a longer pressurized line, but it's not too expensive. While you're at it, get the condom to protect the pump. Also while you're in there, pull the 5/16" head bolts from the pump body one at a time and check for water stains. If you see water stains, throw the pump away and get a new one. It's bad news and Julio won't even attempt to fix them.

To install the condom, take note of the positions of 5/16 bolts that hold the mounting plate to the pump. Remove them, slide the condom down and carefully use a pick tool to locate the holes. Once you locate the holes, you can use your drill with a 5/16 nut driver and run the bolts right through the condom. Now your pump is well protected.

When assembling this system, never use teflon tape on any of the flared connections. That goes for any flared connection on any system. It is simply not needed. Also be careful not to over tighten the brass connections. Not much is required to get the system to seal. Be sure to use teflon tape on all of the non-flared connections.

I hope this saves some of you some money, time and headaches.

 

What kind of problems did Julio encounter with the pump head facing down?

 

I am going to check mine asap on both issues. Thanks for the heads up on this Bret.....

 

I believe it held water and messed up the pump head. Not totally sure on that one though.

 

Great feedback for everyone, I had a early system before check valves and we put in a big one to start with and very good info on mounting the pump, will do on my next project

 

I am a tremendous fan of this kit. It will make you throw rocks at the snow kits.

 

How true that is!!! Some folks have to learn that the hard way.

 

I won't even tune a car if it has that kit.

 

That's my new rule!

 

Early on the original C5 kit was made with the head facing up. Shorter hoses improved cost.. the eventual down fall was that if there was a loose hose or the pump decided to leak, the alcohol could run through the motor and rot it. Gravity makes liquid run down. In Dec 2005 the kits went to pressure sensing(red/green LED).. this was another reason to mount the pump heads facing down. As now you could.. if wanted.. tweak on the pressure setting the pump changed the LED color from red to green.. this would put the switch facing the ground.. a lot easier access to the switch than from up top. Fast forward a few years.. every once in a while I get a call that the pump doesnt work.. after inspection on some cars water would get into the motor of the pump. This was from the drainage utters from the windshield dripping water on the pump.. drip drip drip.. eventually water gets into the motor and seizes the pump. Silicone was tried to seal the cases.. didnt work. The fix was getting a custom cover made for the pump to completely eliminate the issue. Since the covers inception.. zero water issues with pump motors.

This is the reason for getting the covers on the pumps. To eliminate any chance of any water getting into the motors. Covers are free.. for anyone who missed the post that was done January 2010.

As to the check valves. The reason for the large check valve is to increase flow through it. The smaller ones because of design limit some flow. And the reason to go to the additional nozzles is to increase flow not reduce it. You only need one check valve.. and the C5 is more sensitive as it places the nozzle's' below the height of the liquid. The factory washer tank sits higher than the TB once filled. The C6 is not that big of deal.

Hope this helps.. some of this stuff gets figured out as time progresses.. at this point the wheel is round. HTH

 

I need a pump cover for mine! Ill pm you with my address

 

is this the right way?

 

Yes Just needs a cover to protect her

 

 

got the cover just havent put it on yet

 

Very informative, Julio.

I was one who had a seized up pump due to water that Taylor at Dallas Performance found for me. I bought a new pump from you with the water cover and its been great.

I have my pump mounted just as the pic above shows

 

I just ordered a kit from ECS, will it have the pump cover?
Do the instruction tell how to mount it upside down?

 

All pumps sent out after Jan 2010 have covers. So yes this is standard equipment

Just follow the pictures

 

as well as the cover I redirected the udder flow around and down past the pymp with a piece of hose (swiming pool vacum hose)

 

Good advice , my first pump went south summer of 09 after only two years of service. Car is garage kept , rarely sees rain , and got washed rarely also ! Julio ,being the man he is , cut me a better price on the new unit and told me what Scott explains here . Julio explained about the new condom he was developing and sent one out as the first batch arrived in Jan 2010 This location of the pump (frame mount behind driverside front wheel ) put it directly beneath the cowl udders and gots a bath whenever water hit the windshield