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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 01:14 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by whitec5sc
Also thinking while I have everything apart to swap out the cam. You guys have any suggestions on a good one?I have LTs,high flow cats,bullets,3:15 rear. Thanks Jay
I also forgot to mention it will be intercooled and smaller pulley.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 01:14 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by whitec5sc
Also thinking while I have everything apart to swap out the cam. You guys have any suggestions on a good one?I have LTs,high flow cats,bullets,3:15 rear. Thanks Jay
Kooks headers, mids, no cats, 3.5 wheel 5.5 psi I'm making 449hp and 443 torque. @ 2700 Stock bottom end. 3.43 gears..... 50 shot nitrous I'm guessing puts it well over the 500 mark but use it very very little. Have the 3.1 wheel & Ported 243 heads,SS valves ready to go on and when you tackle these speed shops, hold a gun to their head they will finially come off their secret on the cams. LOL
218/224 @ 114 if you want it to have the stock or near stock idle.
224/228 get you in the lope but of course pulls harder on the top end and we already have enough bottom end torque. Comp cam makes a nice 224/228 581/58? @114 Gives you a little more lift and they said pulls from 2200 up. Drop two gears and your in our power band
228/334 is when your really getting serious about track time but our roots blowers are different than the A&As in cams also. End up with about 550whp with the torque coming in about 2500 and thats all I want. Have the switch if I want to hit 600+ on short shots but its for fun and both our cars have maggie's and I did take the sky to the track to see what it would do but i'm cruse and fun and could care less about times.

One thing everyone likes custom cams for is the lift. Hard to find lift on smaller duration cams and the shop that we're dropping the car off at after Myrtle Beach show wants to put the lift in the 605/615 range with the 218/224 duration. High torque with manners.....
Think I called and talked to every race shop in the east coast about the cams and never got the same advice twice so must be more of a secret then even they know............

Last edited by liveaboard74; Apr 12, 2011 at 02:53 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 03:34 PM
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Think I called and talked to every race shop in the east coast about the cams and never got the same advice twice so must be more of a secret then even they know............[/QUOTE]

I hear you on that bro...I called a couple of shops myself for some opinions got all diffefent answers.I wasn't going to do the cam but,I figured when I send my maggie out for the intercool upgrade ill swap it out
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 04:20 PM
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I hear you on that bro...I called a couple of shops myself for some opinions got all diffefent answers.I wasn't going to do the cam but,I figured when I send my maggie out for the intercool upgrade ill swap it out[/QUOTE]

Yep, thats the time to do it and just for the record there are a lot of guys that are making 550whp with the 03 and 04 zo6 cam and they can be had cheap. Seen one sell on e bay a few weeks ago for a hundred.
There a guy on LS1 tech with the 224/228 for sale now for $275. Look around and you can find a good deal, without having to morgage the house.............

Last edited by liveaboard74; Apr 12, 2011 at 04:40 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ssrodder
Thanks for the info MTO. Much appreciated.

I have passed on the non intercooled maggie. Since this is only going to be street driven should I step up to a TVS2300 or will the MP122 maggie work for me.

I have already purchased the upgraded alternator bracket and will follow your other suggestions.

The car is an automatic with a 2:73 rear, I have picked up a 3:42 rear, but maybe a 3:15 will be a better choice. Have been thinking about purchasing a 2001 drive shaft which I have read is a stronger unit. Since the 3:42 was from a stick car will I have to change any thing to use it in my automatic car. While I am at it, I will probably do a 2800 stall convertor. I have also purchased the 1/4 inch heavy duty tunnel cover.

Any other help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
If you get a good deal on a mp122 then go for it, but the mp112 if you overdrive it (overdrive crank and 2.9 pulley) makes very good rwtq and makes it at a lower rpm (im getting 500rwtq at 2k) because at lower rotor speeds the rotors let air slip by the tips and as the rotor speed goes up this becomes less of an issue in the maggie. a mp122 at the same target boost level will be turning slower and make its boost later (not a whole lot but some) so if you are staying around 550 rwhp the mp112 is about perfect if you think you want more then go bigger but your low end tq will be falling off and for me that is the reason for having the maggie. a lot of people will come in here and poop all over the maggie talking about 700 and 800 hp centri engines but if you look at the graphs you will find that the max tq is about the same as what the maggie makes 500-600 (this is also about the max tq the stock bottom end can live with) except that the maggi can make it at 2k rpm and keep it to almost 6k where the others will be dropping the clutch at 4k to be in the power band.

as to going to lower gears that would not be the way i would go (I have been thinking about going to 273 or 315 myself) and with your auto I would definatly stay with the 2.73s. at one point I was road testing my setup I stoped for a trafic light, when the light turned green I took off and the car was acting a little off, now i'm thinking there is something wrong so naturaly I put my foot into it and the rear end lights up, at this point i look at the speedo as see that something if definatly up because i'm going way too fast for 1st gear then I realize i started out in 3rd gear. with a maggie you do not need low gears or a high stall it is almost the reverse of other sc systems just like maggies are better with more compression I'm running 64cc heads to get more compresion and keep more top end power. the same applys to cams the maggie likes a little more of a top end biased cam to make up for the falling boost at higher rpms.

if you can get a 3 rib diff that would be better and a dif brace is a very good idea along with hardened output shafts but then again with a maggie there is no need to shock load the rear end (drop the clutch at 4k rpm) so they are not as hard on rear ends as a centri (you can and will still get wheel hop if you are not careful and hop will shock load your rear end like crazy), also if you are not running slicks and not into 1/4 miles then most of the rear end will be fine (except the auto, IMO expect to have to replace the stock auto)

hope all this helps, and anyone that wants to give me $#!^ about maggie vs the rest of the SC options can go pound sand, because I do not care how much peak HP any other SC makes I like the way this thing makes me smile every time I get into it.

Last edited by M_T_0; Apr 12, 2011 at 05:51 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 05:59 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Erics_02_z06
the mp112 or mp122 will work just fine. The TVS is a huge unit, and for a 5.7 is overkill. If you are sticking to 5-7 lbs of boost, the mp's are just fine. The TVS is a heck a of a lot more efficient, but at the end of the day, if you are only shooting for 500RWHP, they will all get you there just fine.
I have to agree with all of the above the key being knowing what you want out of the car if you are going to forge the bottom end and want more than 550 rwhp then you need to step up to a larger unit, but larger is not always better, just like putting 90lb injectors on a stock 347, they would be biger and you could make them work (I think) but they would not be fun and would most likely make me garage the car out of fustration.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 06:04 PM
  #27  
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another thing that has not been talked about is the 90mm tb upgrade these are worth wile after you start upgrading the maggie they are good for 30+ hp on the top end depending on modifications.

BTW the 42lb injectors that are shipped with the maggie start to run at 110% duty cycle above 9psi so 60lbs are in order if you are pushing it.
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