Rkreigh

good deal, exactly the advice I needed. yes, have the battery unhooked and have some insulation on the wiring, but going to update it as it runs VERY close to the turbo and get's hot.

the ECM in the c5 is in kinda a strange place. one other "oddity"

the master cyl plastic reservoir got hot and cracked up at the top. I have the stinger hood which I'm sure is drawing alot of heat and pumping it "up" right next to that. so I have some insulation going on there too.

thanks again for endulging me and helping out with the tips. I do have a bunch of 1/4 extensions and elbows which look like they will come in handy probably need to soak those bolts in penatrating lube.

drained the coolant out of the aftermarket rad (alum) and it used a plug instead of a petcock. the allen head plug wobbed out and rounded and even an ez out wouldn't budge it. going to tap that plug and put a bolt in it rather than fight it.

the turbo c5 is a thing of joy. I've gotten many trouble free miles out the car and the ttix system is probably the best engineered out there.

will take you to 1k hp and beyond which is the "practical" limit for the c5 chassis anyway

like to "back half" a c5 and run bigger turbos by notching the frame someday. I thing about 1800 hp is doable with some reasonable plumbing that could fit.

maybe a top mount would be better for that.

I have an "old" 82 BB chevy drag car that needs twin turbos. going to try and do that someday as the chassis is already built for 2k hp and there is LOTS of room.

just need a much stronger dart block, and of course the ultimate aphrodesiac CASH!!

Rkreigh

ttt is there a link to the ttix installation manual or does anyone have it online? like to see the downpipe flange and see the manual so I can go in reverse. any tips on the bolt sizes and best way to yank this manifold are appreciated. thanks everyone for your help. I didn't install the kit and it's very tight so I can to do the homework before I give it a go

tia

Chris Stewart

Check the TTi forum yo, I replied there.

mdaniel

http://forum.turbotechnologyinc.com/...0574aea3093e62

Rkreigh

thx chris and mcdaniel

downloaded the manual. I'm ready to tackle this. thinking about it more I'm going to order a new manifold.

I'll try and fix the other one for a future project. want to TT my drag vette and there is room for BIG turbos on that one.

good news is that I found out the car has some nice ported AFS heads, and stainless roller rockers that look really good.

it's been good experience as this is the first time I've worked on an LSX engine and I need to not be so lazy and do more of my own work.

working on the 71 TAs has eaten up alot of my time lately, but they are coming along nicely! (I have 2 of em)

Turbo-Geist

I'm not sure if this will help, but here is the thread from when I did my install. I have some pictures posted in here that may shed some light on any questions.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...-ttix-frc.html

Rkreigh

after thinking about it I ordered a new manifold. george said although it's very tight, I might be able to get to the turbo bolts and not have to mess with the inlet/outlet and downpipe, oil pressure side and drain

we'll see. it's packed in there pretty good. TTIx gave me a good price on the replacement part and has been very helpful.

looking to get this car back on the road!

0Rob@ChampionMotors

We had a customer with 1000 km on the kit and the same thing happened on the passenger manifold cracked at the end. Also Agostino racing had the same thing happen a few years back. We didn't get warranty either, but George said he would sell one to us at his cost which was fair.

Rkreigh

I need to find a special tool it's a 3/8 square on one end a short shaft and a 9/16 or whatever bolt size the turbo bolt has

I've seen the top fuel guys torq the cyl head valley bolts with these but don't know what they are called. might have to weld up something and make it

getting to those little 5/16 bolts holding the downpipe on or the turbo bolts is REALLY hard. need some specialized tools

Chris Stewart

Why specialized? I use a 9/16 boxed wrench for the manifold studs. How about install the manifold & turbo on the bench, and drop them in as an assembly from the top. Remove the coil pack for extra room.

For the downpipe bolts, I only need these tools:
1/4 drive on 5/16 12pt socket
1/4 drive swivel
1/4 drive assorted extensions
5/16 ratcheting wrench

Try removing the starter bolts to get some extra wiggle room down there.

Rkreigh

thx chris

I'm still trying to get the manifold off and trying to do it without removing the turbo. trying to get a tool that will help get to the bolts on the manifold studs the "crows foot" 9/16 might work

what I'm looking for is similar to crows foot, only it has a bit longer shaft and is a closed end

the top fuel guys use this little tool for torqing down the valley bolts

if I definely have to pull the down pipe off I'll need to get a longer 5/16 wrench those bolts seem like they are torqued too tight

just soaking everything in wd40 for now

thanks very much for the tips they will come in handy

Chris Stewart

Yep, I've have these on/off a few times now. You could have it off tonight instead of waiting for a tool that might not work. Remember putting things back, not to make things real tight. The heat and stuff makes em twice as hard to crack loose. Another tip: Put one DP bolt down low, to hold it loosely in place, then work on the top one. Once the top is snug, you've almost won the battle.

Rkreigh

so is is possible to get to the bolts on the manfold to turbo without unbolting the downpipe?? or is it better to just unbolt the downpipe and pull the oil lines and turbo inlet/outlet pipes??

it sure would be nice if that could work and seems like it would be easier.

I can get to them from the top and hopefully and crack them loose

feels like godzilla torqed those little 5/16 bolts and I'd hate to round them off

Rkreigh

Ok got the manifold and turbo off finally! those little 5/16 bolts holding the downpipe on were on tight and really hard to get to.

bought a ratcheting 5/16 wrench which really helped.

some of the bolts you can see just fine but it's hard to get a socket on them

had to remove the ac line to pull the turbo out.

george cut me a good deal on the new manifold too

I found out that the silicone copupler for the turbo inlet is worn and has a crack in it.

I actually didn't think I could do this. it's very tight and I was a bit intimidated . a bit of determination and it's finally off!

Chris Stewart

Cool! I hope you can set the a/c line so it's not in the way next time. It's good being able to DIY that stuff

Rkreigh

it looks like it will definitely snag the compressor inlet lifting the turbo up so I'll bolt it back in and then tighten it up after lowering it back in

the turbo fit is really tight

found out that the silicone coupler has a bit of a wear tear so time to replace it before it goes back together

this job has been a bit intimidating as it's the first time working on a c4 much less a TT car. but hey, I went for it and hopefully will save some dough.

probably should vacuum out the ac and recharge it myself too!

Chris Stewart

Is your a/c line routed like this pic? Because the a/c line shouldn't really be in the way. I can remove/install the pass manifold/turbo as an assembly, and just slide past it. However the silicone elbow for the turbo inlet does rest right against that a/c compressor hose fitting.

http://forum.turbotechnologyinc.com/viewtopic.php?t=18